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Hamilton: Shed kitset / building useful info or hookups?


mjrstar

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^^ yeah, although kind of hoping that since I already have 2 double garages, the new 3 bay barn should keep me happy for a while...

No, it wont :lol: kitset is the way to go, especially if you dont have time/skills to DIY. My last garage was done through Ideal, and all I did was the power. Took a while to do due to weather, but it was only one man actually assembled the garage!

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Oh yeah he's coming back... Also doing drainage for storm water and sinking the water tank in, probably should get ditch done for the power if he brings back a skinney bucket..

The same dude/company does the concrete so he still has some work to do...

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I'm no expert but I'd say it would depend on shed design, ie: if you have a wooden poled shed you could just have a dirt floor..whereas if you were fixing a steel framed shed to a concrete base things would need be pretty solid

But as a minimum bank on 100-120mm thick with re-enforcing,and possibly deeper (maybe 300mm)around the footings.

(beware this is just my estimation)

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What is the regulations on the concrete floor? Im looking to buy my first home and one of the houses on the list has no garage so I would need to put up a double. Cant seem to find how thick the concrete floor needs to be or anything like that.

Depends on whats going on it, theres no "set thickness" for garge slab floors, the ones i rip up are anywhere from 60 to 150 thick, with most contractiors aiming for 100mm (with or without reo doesnt matter) if you dont use reo you can expansion cut it to control cracking etc.

Footings and nib will depend on wall style and span.

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But I saw hoist mentioned, I know in workshops there are some kind of regulation from someone about minimum thickness concrete you can bolt a hoist to.

Common sense really, wouldnt think any sane person would go trying to bolt a hoist to 100mm concrete with 10mm dynabolts etc :lol:

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Photo makes it look like it's on a mean lean, but I assume the house lines are supposed to be horizontal, lewl.

So that pad is 10x8? Were the limitations because you didn't physically have the room, or council told you, you couldn't go bigger?

Given you were originally looking to spend 25k or so, how much were you quoted for the construction, and doe sthat include services?

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yes the pad is 10x8, I think it looks odd because the fence in the background follows the contour of the ground.. as for the pricing, I have extended that a bit (quite a bit) the shed build cost is 33k to lock-up stage this included uprating the internal roof girders to allow for no central posts. ( I reckon this will be well worth the cost to have a full clear span inside) but there is extra for storm-water drainage and driveway access to keep the council happy.

I'll also be putting a few metres of concrete out the front. Yes I would have loved to build a 12x12m shed but I was unkeen to have to jam it right in the middle of the paddock. The 10x8 gives the minimum distance to the boundary and has sufficient clearance of the septic drainage lines on the other side.

8M deep means I can easily get the mini and the starlet in nose to tail if needs be and have more than 1.5m clearance to the end of the shed. It will also allow for a decent bench and a normal car without having to squeeze past. I did look at 11M x 7M as another option but i would have run out of room ,and also price up a high stud mono pitch versus the barn style, there is very little difference in price.

Waikato sheds seem to be up front with all costs compared to the likes of versatile who like to hide their pricing a bit.

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For sure not a cheap project, I have a few bucks stashed away so no need to borrow the money.

Fingers crossed it should look something like this:

http://www.waikatosheds.co.nz/images/ga ... ge/163.jpg

Also my thoughts are turning to floor prep, IE: do I go for some 2 pot concrete paint to keep it tidy or is there something better out there?

DSCF0850.jpg

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I don't know about in a non commercial sence, and I have just skimmed over this thread.

But I saw hoist mentioned, I know in workshops there are some kind of regulation from someone about minimum thickness concrete you can bolt a hoist to.

Think its more to do with concrete strength than thickness...something like 50mpa gets bandied about (no idea what that means tbh).

Also my thoughts are turning to floor prep, IE: do I go for some 2 pot concrete paint to keep it tidy or is there something better out there?

Terracotta tiles work good for Ferrari I hear ;)

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