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xsspeed's Corollas: EE80->Beams3s & NZGT Liftback


xsspeed

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Agh, forgot about getting in touch - could maybe pick up this weekend if you are around.

Thought I would ask in here to keep discussion relevant; What are my options for clutch and flywheel on the 3sge - the beams on TM doesn't come with - so I could buy from him, but the price previously quoted was obscene. Is there any issue running an earlier gen flywheel and clutch? (Possibly rotating mass would be heavier) and what about Altezza Flywheels/clutches? Is the spline the same on the FWD manual gbox's as the Altezza RWD manual gbox's?

Edit; Also re halfshafts - does any one have the good oil here? What is acceptable in terms of shortening? As they will end up being shorter than either the 4age or 3sge halfshafts. Should I be looking at getting some made from scratch (tempting but pricey).

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The altezza flywheel is a dual-mass item so won't be suitable for the FWD setup. Earlier gen 3S flywheels work fine - I'm using the same one that was on my gen3 motor and there were no problems fitting it. The best idea is to go for an aftermarket light flywheel such as Cusco or Jun.

You should be able to shorten the shafts fairly easily, but is this required?

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Have been told so, not in a position yet to measure my self, but it's on my list of potentially expensive items.

As far as I have been told the 3s motor and gearbox ends up being wider/longer than the 4a, so bringing the outputs from gbox closer to the hubs on both sides.

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  • 8 months later...

Might as well chuck this heap up in here, given NZGT talk - here is my recently acquired AE82 NZGT Liftback

Photo's courtesy of HellRaizer

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The leak from the blown frost plug...

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Wheel clearance is only 1mm off the caliper...

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Looks like red lettering on the cam cover - possibly Gen 2 Head - car had a history of 7m-itis (BHG)

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  • 1 month later...

Ok, a bit of a cosmetic update...

Got my one dented simmons wheel fixed up at Arrow wheels, despite extra work required they stuck to their quote which was choice and pretty sharp work.

Found that someone had sealed the three piece wheels with some sort of black goo, the one that got repaired has been resealed properly, but the other three have been left - hopefully they will hold air.

I got the Achilles semi slicks chucked on, so 195/50/r15 on a 15x7, nice and square fitment.

The front is about as wide as can go, perhaps a touch outside the guard, I think the wheel offsets are about 33, will need to check again. There is a fair bit of room on the back to the guard, so I might put the centrepiece on the other side in the long run to push it out a bit.

There is a drain on the battery still, my mechanic had thought he had found the cause - chasing him up to find out where he thought it was. For now I am just disconnecting one of the battery terminals for the week while I am not dailying it.

There are a few minor electrical issues - rear windscreen wiper and washer not hooked up, internal light "door" setting doesn't work.

Body wise, theres a tiny bit of rust in the hatch as I expected, a few trim items missing inside and out. And a wee leak in the boot into the spare wheel well. And not surprisingly the boot gas struts are shot. Various shitty paint spots and dents and scratches all over.

As briefly discussed in spam thread, there is a miss at hot idle...posting these notes as future reference...

Oh and speaky of engine questions, how do I adjust idle on a bigport 4age? - specifically hot idle, it's at about 800rpm and about to stall, and has a wee miss. As soon as radiator fan comes on and idle picks up it is sweet.
800rpm hot idel should be sweet? theres a screw on the throttle body to up the idle but its usually something else at fault if you have done nothing and the idles low. Fix the miss also
800rpm is plenny - you most probably have something like a vacuum leak causing it to stall rather than a low idle. (550-600rpm would be considered low)

However to answer your question - to adjust idle there should be an air bleed screw somewhere around the throttle butterfly. You wind the screw out (anti clockwise) to increase the idle..

(Its the opposite of a carb idle screw where you wind it in to speed up)

dam - edit - beaten by Spenno.

Yea Im with KK on the vacuum leak, moving the idle screw will just be masking the issue

Should be a screw on the throttle body that you can wind in and out.

The AFM versions (e.g. 4A-GZE) have a second mixture/idle screw on the AFM, I adjusted mine recently because it was stalling when warm. Not sure how you would go about adjusting it on the MAP sensor models...

Pics...

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These show the small amount of 'poke' at the front, and still massive guard gap

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Minor mishaps...one of the centre caps was a bit loose so whacked some sikaflex on there, but as I hadn't used it recently there was a whole heap of dry/semi dry shit in the top of the tube, squirted that out onto a handy leaf on the driveway. Then proceeded to drive over leaf smearing partially dried sikaflex over brand new tyre... cue facepalm.gif

Whipped out the battery as it was drained and put it on the charger for a couple of hours, turned out that wasn't enough, so pushed it out onto the road so I could get my falcon up to it to jump start. Pushed across the road, and as soon as it got onto the far camber it started to race away, so jumped in and pressed brakes - all I got was the firewall, so a quick jab on the handbrake brought it to a stop. Luckily there was a heap of space till the car behind and I maintained an outward calmness like I knew what I was doing for any observers. (Is loss of brakes without power normal for these? I wouldn;t have thought so - definately something I am going to check out ahead of trackday!)

The second near fail was after I nosed up the falcon to jump it, my neighbour across the road came for a yarn, so I just applied handbrake as I was sitting in the car chatting, but then hoped out. When he left I hooked up the cars and then gave the coon a little bit of gas as the idle dropped and then turned the heater on to keep idle up. I noticed that when I gave it a small rev that the engine rocked more than normal...then fuck! I had left it in drive. Lucky that a) I had the handbrake right up tight as the coons have shitty little drum setups that are on if fully tight or else might as well not be there, and B) that my tiny throttle blips weren't too much to send the falcon into the nose of the corolla. Imagine trying to explain that! Nearly a fail of epic proportions.

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Nope, done nothing, Raizer picked this up for me in gizzy and was towed in it, he mentioned lack of braking with motor off.

I was planning on doing a full bleed and pad replacement, but worried what to do if this does nothing.

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OK - I would do this

Check master cylinder has fluid in it

Check handbrake works

Jack up and chuck axle stands under the suspension

Remove wheels

Check no brake pads have popped out

Look for fluid leaks around all callipers, brake hoses and at all joins of the brake lines

Fully bleed all brakes

Check pedal

Make sure handbrake is adjusted correctly

Check pedal

Go to servo

Purchase a fuel tin and 5L of petroleum

Pour petrol on car

Light said petrol

Watch your problems turn into smoke and dust

Have durry and write todays events into your diary

Watch 2 episodes of Doogie Howser

Have a wank thinking of your girlfriends sister

Realise person who plays Doogie is actually gay

Stop wanking and go to sleep

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