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engine swap ideas for hillman hunter


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if i spend 500 buks on boosting it and it tunrs to custard, then so be it, i could sell the charger for what i pay for it anyway, and it would be a good experience.

That's exactly why I did it. I started with an engine with 180,000kms on it and was amazeed how love it lasted. I sold the setup before the engine died.

anyways enough rant for now, nismo.capri, you dont happern to have some measurements for the sc14 do u? just want to size it up in the engine bay and see what gets in the way.

You are in Chch right?

I got an SC12 you can borrow. the SC14 is about 30mm longer.

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if i spend 500 buks on boosting it and it tunrs to custard, then so be it, i could sell the charger for what i pay for it anyway, and it would be a good experience.

That's exactly why I did it. I started with an engine with 180,000kms on it and was amazeed how love it lasted. I sold the setup before the engine died.

anyways enough rant for now, nismo.capri, you dont happern to have some measurements for the sc14 do u? just want to size it up in the engine bay and see what gets in the way.

You are in Chch right?

I got an SC12 you can borrow. the SC14 is about 30mm longer.

yeh im in chch, would be awesome if i could size it up sometime

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holbay engines brew ( now coltec ) how to get the most out of your 1725

http://www.coltecracing.com/engines.html ( middle engine )

http://images.google.co.nz/imgres?imgur ... f%26sa%3DN

but rather than a engine swap i would tweak the good old 1725

nice cam/engine rebulid ect oil cooler and some twin sidys would be sweet

good way to do a engine swap is to think of a figure and tripple it

huntd made good power out of her 1725 with a blowin head gasket

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my mate and i put a bluetop 4age into one with the t50? box , just the shaft sorted (mates rates) and thrshed the fuck out of it ( automotive starting course) its went fucking hard...wastn that hard , then again we had the gys at our work to help us etc

ahh back in the day i miss that (3 years ago)

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Having had a lot to do with the Hunter engines and the chrysler family in motorsport myself I would say the super charged option but.....

The engine has a very weak bottom end and they have a habbit of running bearings just when the compression is raised to 10-1 ratio which would be close to where you would be at 6 pounds boost.

The best conversion we ever did was a guy put a L200 engine and box from a 84 mitsi ute/sigma and we did the same but the turboed version of the engine.

This thing flew with the N/A engine and the turbo was even better.

The hardest thing is getting them to stop. They require a lot of mucking around to get them to pull up well.

If you can get the L200 engine and box cheap a gsr or evo motor bolts up for a cheap upgrade later on.

The best way to do this or any conversion is right first time and for the best cost second (after the buget is established).

If you want to twin carb your stock engine and want a head done let me know and I can do one for you cheaply. the botom end will still be a prblem at some stage but there are ways to fix it to.

Corey

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  • 2 weeks later...
Having had a lot to do with the Hunter engines and the chrysler family in motorsport myself I would say the super charged option but.....

The engine has a very weak bottom end and they have a habbit of running bearings just when the compression is raised to 10-1 ratio which would be close to where you would be at 6 pounds boost.

I thought bearings spin when the crank breaks through the oil and grips the bearing, this is where it gets the force to spin. Doesn't this happen becasue of a lack of oil pressure or if the rod bolt stretches?

In your motorsport app you were running a bigger cam and more rev's than factory not just a higher CR right?

Why do you say that it was the CR that casued the spun bearing?

Personally I'd have thoguht it more likly that the racing rev's stretched the rod bolts.

Running a blower on a std bottom end using a standard rev range wont casue any issues with the bearings as long as the oil pressure is good.

I got told the same thing with the pinto :wink:

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Having had a lot to do with the Hunter engines and the chrysler family in motorsport myself I would say the super charged option but.....

The engine has a very weak bottom end and they have a habbit of running bearings just when the compression is raised to 10-1 ratio which would be close to where you would be at 6 pounds boost.

I thought bearings spin when the crank breaks through the oil and grips the bearing, this is where it gets the force to spin. Doesn't this happen becasue of a lack of oil pressure or if the rod bolt stretches?

The bearings never spun they just picked up on the journal, the higher the compression ratio the more pressure on the upper bearings on the big ends and lower on the mains.

In your motorsport app you were running a bigger cam and more rev's than factory not just a higher CR right?

Yes the revs were higher but the oil pumps had more pressure and volume and the compression ratio was nearing 11.5-1 compared to 9-1

Why do you say that it was the CR that casued the spun bearing?

Personally I'd have thoguht it more likly that the racing rev's stretched the rod bolts.

I said it above but we were using ARP rod bolts and the bearings hadn't spun in the cap. They had had been flatened due to the pressure applied to them with the compression ratio and the oils back then probably didn't help either

Running a blower on a std bottom end using a standard rev range wont casue any issues with the bearings as long as the oil pressure is good.

I got told the same thing with the pinto :wink:

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  • 1 year later...

read through this thread, there are a fair few ideas tossed around. i ended up putting it in the too hard/im poor/lazy basket. there is no such thing as a simple engine swap (generally) and to be honest its a hunter lol, it took me a while to accept that. i seriously considered supercharging it, would work out cheaper, and be pretty radtastic i feel. then i realised im a poor student with nill fabricating skills haha.

but like flawless said, give it a half decent tickle and you'll be surprised. i know i500gt has a bloody nice set of twin carbs for a hunter lying about as he has my old hunter and they were spare. get a nice cam regrind, lightened flywheel, exhaust.....you might be surprised

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Get the old tape out and look for and spare carby motor complete with tranz or manual that will slip in.

I have seen a nissan FJ20 Turbo on the net fitted to a grunter before.

could pick up a carby holden 3.8 v6 for a few hundred and plenty about. looks like one could fit, would have to see. Engine bay and tunnel are a resonable size in the grunter. It also doesn't take much power to drive the hillman's 800Kg shell.

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The old 1725 doesn't mind a turbo mounted between the origonal intake mani and the origonal stromberg carb. Can get away with job for cheap. Just need to get creative with some mandrill bends and a welder, go for gold. Will be fun until you over rev it. Just worry about the brake booster and vacuum advance lines after you get it running.

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