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towing torque not talk...


shizzl

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hey guys.

am after a bit of insight on the best way to go for a tow car.

heres the deal,been offered a "wagon" with a 2L cortina motor

bolted to a toyota box with a dellow bellhousing or something like that.

but im after grunt/torque for towing.

would a holden 6 be much better than the cortina 2L or

would it just drink more gas?

would be nice if a falcon 6 would bolt u to a cortina bellhousing ae..

or does it? :rolleyes:

whats your thoughts guys?

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depending what cort you have i wold look at a 250 falcon six and 3 speed manual borg box,

as they came in some aussie assembled versions,

i have had 1.5 cube of river shingle in dads xd coon with a 1.5t digger on a trailer behind it,

towing happily at 100ksand 2 gear 70 up the steaper hills 70 because there is a bit of a step down and its farken lowd,

there is no sub for cubes when you are towing,

2l cort motor set up with high torque cam would tow your rubbish to the dump but,

you want more if its its dedicated job,

like my ute sc 3800 for skids and towing the gemi with dirty auto and room for spares on the tray

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Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races.

Superchargers=torque. Dispalecment=torque. Everything else equals FTL!lol

i've also heard that the foulcoon 250 motor has too short a conrods to make any decent torque. But I hear lots, not all of which is true. You be the judge. (ps, I'm heller drunk too)

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hey guys.

but im after grunt/torque for towing.

whats your thoughts guys?

My thoughts for open road towing a heavy load are that you need the biggest CC per cylinder you can find, leaf springs and a good auto gearbox that can be switched to a "power" setting.

A heavy towing vehicle helps - there is no doubt, but be cognisant of stopping distances

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navara stz are mean for towing so long as you don't need to take off. zero torque without boost.

terrible aye!!! and by the time you start getting somewhere.... you're at limiter and having to change up a gear and get stuck in the low revs again :evil:

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hey guys.

but im after grunt/torque for towing.

whats your thoughts guys?

My thoughts for open road towing a heavy load are that you need the biggest CC per cylinder you can find, leaf springs and a good auto gearbox that can be switched to a "power" setting.

A heavy towing vehicle helps - there is no doubt, but be cognisant of stopping distances

he speaks the truth

find the biggest fuckoff thing you can with teh biggest fuck off motor you can ..and this = tow heaven

think LWB landcrusier......or hummer...or a fucken tank

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tank would turn too sharply :P

full chassis + heaps of grunt = ftw.

live rear axle = ftw.

good suspension = win. if you're towing something with ham rear shocks you'll know about it! even though you only whack like 80kg tops downward pressure on tongue of towbar, of you've got fucked shocks then it's wallow primetime.

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^

We towed my 110 on the back of a dual axle savage trailer from CHCH to IVC using an ED Fairmont and you could sure as shit tell it was there, and the 110 only weighs just around 1100kg. Fuck it went through an horrific amount of gas too. I'd roll a 3.8 Holden V6 over the 'coon I6, having towed similar weights with both, the Holden did the job better and used less gas doing it.

Ideally though, a diseasel LWB 4WD would be my suggestion.

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I'd roll a 3.8 Holden V6 over the 'coon I6, having towed similar weights with both, the Holden did the job better and used less gas doing it.

Yeah my commiewhore wags tows cars mint as. Unfortunally its blow'd up, but that ain't the point. It was free too :D

I think they are pretty cheap aswell and have millions of room for stuff in the back

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tank would turn too sharply :P

full chassis + heaps of grunt = ftw.

live rear axle = ftw.

good suspension = win. if you're towing something with ham rear shocks you'll know about it! even though you only whack like 80kg tops downward pressure on tongue of towbar, of you've got fucked shocks then it's wallow primetime.

just need a pic of tank turning to sharp now :)

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