Beaver Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 yes. needs front lip/spook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 sounds awesome out there on the track! lol'd at the shuffling of the steering wheel around corners. regarding the stroke, it seems like it's got a pretty over-square bore/stroke from factory so I wouldn't want to have too short of a stroke. With an 86mm bore you can afford to have a longer stroke and get some more displacement while you're at it. There's more to making an engine rev than just the bore/stroke anyhow, you need to be looking at the rod to stroke ratio, weight of the rotating assembly, camshaft duration/lift etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 How high are you planning on revving it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Over 9000. I like this idea of a high revving L24 - it would be tits. The world needs more of this noise: EAXGuD_f3Kw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Yeah, get an S20, Mark. Don't fuck around with an L. ..oh wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Should black out your grill and headlight surrounds I reckon. Like on the example on previous page. I think it'd work well with the cream Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Don't take this the wrong way but it's a lot of money to spend on a motor that probably won't make any more power than an L28 with flat tops and a decent cam. If you want it to last any length of time you're going to need forged pistons and a very good (expensive) harmonic balancer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flauski Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Do you have that program "Nissan L6 engine builder v0.1 1999 Sydney Z car club Australia" Can't find it on net. I agree with DJZ, he should know a bit, had a L31 etc. Start with an L28, thats 400cc/16.666666% more right out of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 You can get it here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/enginemodellingsoftware/lengine.zip One of the Oz Datsun websites also had a web based one which was interesting, it had more engines in it (like RB, VG etc). One of them had a problem with the length of the L20 rods, can't remember which though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 ha S20, in my dreams. last complete long block on YAJ sold for $70k NZD which is just a bit out of my price range. Probably still going to do L24. I have a N42 head anyway and a bit of a bore notch to make it fit is not going to be much in the grand scheme of things. Kameari pulley kit and twin idler gear was already on the shopping list for more revs so quite certain that will sort me out there. Boring it out was just an idea but likely not worth it by the sounds. Factory L24 is 9.1 compression according to that calc which surprised me some what i thought it would be more like 8-8.5. Guess my problem with it being so flat must be that its currently an asthmatic. Engine is currently stock but has extractors and throttle bodies on it so the engine needs to catch up to whats bolted on to it. The rev limit is set currently to 6250rpm and really nothing happens over 5000rpm. While Markkus figure of 9000 would be nice ideally id like it to go to 8000 and still be pulling rather than flat as a pancake which it currently is. Could black out my grille. have a spare one so i can have a play. the one in the picture is a GTR fibreglass one. wouldnt mind one of these one day but for $650 there is other things which are higher priority. though being my grill is a huge chunk of cast metal a fibreglass would be a good weight saving idea for the future. yeh DJZ's like will give you the L Engine program or i can send it to you if not. Pretty sure its the lengine program with the L20 rods problem also. Speaking of which what was the advantage of L20 rods again? i have some lying around which i need to check what i think is the piston pin diameter to see if they are the crap ones or good ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Early L20 rods were the same length as the L24 rods, I believe. Only the early ones were 10mm bolt, or 8mm bolt... or.. something. Fuck, haven't looked at that shit for ages. Probably should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Early L20A and all L20ET (as far as I know) rods are shorter than L28 rods for when you are building a 3.1L, they are the same length as L24 rods, they should have 9mm rod bolts from memory. Late L20A motors are odd ball, smaller journal diameters etc etc With a decent balancer & cam the L24 would probably rev to 8 grand without any other work, for a while anyway I used to rev my unbalanced 3.1 to 7200 (and sometimes slightly higher) with a heavy clutch/flywheel and a standard 3 row balancer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Reminds me, DJZ you mighty wizard of L-series. What H/G did you use on your 3.1 builds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 ahh right so no use to me then. well i will measure them and might have some L20 rods but they prob the useless ones. well thats good news to my ears. i will need to get the L24 block sorted to take the N42 head so will defiantly be getting the rotating assembly balanced. i do want to thrash it for a few years to come so best to do it right. probably will put a cam in the N42 head but i will get the engine builder to put it on the flow bench and see what he says. apparently they supposed to flow pretty good in factory form but i dont know much about them. i have a cusco super single light weight flywheel / clutch combo from an RB which i hope to put on this. i haven't a spare block to test but im sure i have read some where RB fly wheels fit. if not no biggie was left over from when i was going to build a sweet RB so will just sell it and buy a L series one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 The clutch should be fine, I was running an RB30 flywheel and clutch on mine. You might have to get a shorter release bearing carrier. The N42 heads are pretty good, the exhaust flow is their main down fall though. Kyteler, I was using a 2mm Nismo (HKS?) metal gasket on mine, I'm not sure if you can still get them, I think MSA sells a different brand, maybe Tomei now? When I last looked they were about 50% more expensive than when I bought mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 good to know re fly wheel setup. i will need new release bearing anyway so will be made to suit. can get these http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_MetalHeadgasket.php or Tomei do one for similar money also. If you get one Ky send it my way so i can do a measure up and see if i can use it on my L24 with N42 head for some extra compression. Chur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flauski Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Early L20A and all L20ET (as far as I know) rods are shorter than L28 rods for when you are building a 3.1L, they are the same length as L24 rods, they should have 9mm rod bolts from memory. Late L20A motors are odd ball, smaller journal diameters etc etc thanks for the link, it shows L20A rods as being 135mm instead of 133mm like L24. Guess that was the issue. Kameari pulley kit and twin idler gear was already on the shopping list for more revs so quite certain that will sort me out there. Boring it out was just an idea but likely not worth it by the sounds. Um $850 USD for a Kameari pulley kit? + shipping + GST? Thats gonna be around 1300 NZD, what is wrong with ATI super dampers? Or even a BMW damper conversion like DJZ (and a shit ton of other Z users run? Then you could afford your GTR grille Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Mainly because I want the full pulley kit for the track. This car is likely to see a bit of track time and it would beneficial. The ati ones look all good but would like the rest of the pulleys to go with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 Good stuff on the tacho mod. I'll have to do this (hopefully) soon too. I only have a pic programmer thou so may end out rewriting the code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 The code doesn't look to long so I imagine you could re write if need be. It would just be a matter of if the pic chip supported all the same functions as the attiny chip otherwise things could get interesting trying to do work a rounds in the code to do the same thing. Seems pretty simple though. Glad I found a way of keeping my stock tacho this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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