mark105 Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 You think. Haven't used it as of yet. Paint is a non issue as there is plenty I need to fix on the body any ways so no reason why I can't just wrap rag round a dolly and tap it up and fix later with rest of my fuck ups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 You will need to hit it hard but it should be sweet, better than that roller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 I R GELLIS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chees- Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 jelly, very very jelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 its just a wee bit of camber, might start it tomorrow to see how loud side pipe is and test a surge tank repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Hey 10-5, After looking at your last pic, I gots ta thinking. You spoke about fitting an RCA kit to the rear of your car. Depending on how much clearance your tyre has in the interior wall of the rear tub, It is possible to weld the new rear arm mounts on further inboard, to increase clearance on the outside edge of the tyre. Although this is actually reducing your rear trackwidth. (Which wont neccesarily harm the handling) While camber is cool, cutting out a set of rear tyres every 6 weeks is not. (Although corrected rear toe will lessen this effect) The only thing to be wary of if you did try to undertake this mod, is that (At least on the 510 rear X member) as you move inwards toward the center of the Xmember, the channel that the mounts reiside in gets wider. Which means that it requires more effort (Depending on the skill of the guy welding them up) to fit them centered/in the correct place. Just food for thought..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Although that is a sweet idea. I am going to just be Modding the current pick ups on the cross member so moving them more inboard is going to be difficult in that regard. I think I have plenty of space to do what I need to do anyways, only need to take out about 2 degrees and yes fixing the toe is the biggest thing I will be doing, not worried to much about the camber as it is not overly huge. Have mad respect for painters now. They earn their living, so much sanding and then I spent 5 hours in the paint booth doing that lot with 2 coats of paint. Took heaps of care to make sure it went on all lush. So I hope they come out much better than the body did. Exhaust is almost done and the biggest job now is the suspension. Got billsteins shocks to make fit in the rear. My adjustable rear cross member to construct and reassemble. Coil overs to build for the front and fit the top hats. then I got a day booked with japawagons with his wheel alignment machine to set the whole thing up properly. Got some work to do but it should be easily achievable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hey brew are your struts 51mm dia? I thought they may be 55mm like later nissans and mitsus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 sure are 51mm or 50.8 if you want to be exact, measured all 4 of them i had last weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 awesome! get that thing low boy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 that is the plan, need to figure out best way to measure up fitting the coil overs, guessing i should have measured the strut length compressed before i pulled them all out, whoops. be nice if there was some way to clamp it so i could put weight on the setup to see how much the 10kg springs will compress. i guess most people just measure the length of their original compressed strut, and setup the coil over adjustment in the middle and weld the coil overs the same as the compressed height? if that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Dummy assemble with a few tacks - check height and adjustment - confirm OK - remove - full welds.. Well thats how I would do it but I am a bit of a rough cunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 yeh was thinking that is likely the only/best way to do it if i want to put it back on the ground to check actual heights and so on. just my welding skills are not that awesome so i would maybe struggle to trust my welds to put the weight of the car on them. but it will likely end up being what i do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Ten5 just make sure you set the coilovers so that they have a full range of motion and can compress past the bump stop position. So often coilovers are put in that sit nicely at a normal driving height but are the first thing to bottom out through lack of travel on the strut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 you mean people preload the springs to much, so there is to much compression on the spring before it goes in the car so it bottoms out far to quickly? cause man if you did that, it must be super slammed even at max high as the springs dont seem that long to begin with, i know i will need to use my keeper springs to keep everything captive. well thats with factory shocks anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 One day mine will be as awesome as yours. One day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 just started it up on side pipe and extractors. shit it sounds sweet. time to setup coil overs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 For the record. restored.jp's stuff is pretty damned sweet. I'm going to save and get some more stuff rather than fucking about with fixing the steel in the guards. I'll probably try get the guards and bonnet together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 Hey 105 if you are going to build your coil overs around those super long shocks I'll smash you. Set it up where it sits lush and get some shorter/shorten some shocks, you probably should be cutting that strut casing down to keep some shock stroke. Measure where it sits lush and sort a shock to suit, do it once/its not a rally car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 shorten the strut body (just take 40-50mm out and weld up underneath where the threaded sleeves would go) and find shorter inserts rather than shorten your existing inserts - I absolutely regret not doing this on the front of the Eterna and as a result at its height I had it at, it only had about an inch of travel before bottoming out. I did shorten the rear casings and fit shorter MR2 inserts which would have allowed the rear to sit much much lower (and have more travel without bottoming out). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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