V8Pete Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Keen to put my battery in the boot. Keen for a list of parts etc I might need, prices, and things I might not have thought of. Thak you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 box cables switch terminals etc bungee cord + cable ties. venting equipment possibly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Depends if your gonna sink it into the boot or not, when I did mine the wof guy said it needed to be in a box because of fumes but I pointed out that all the battery boxes have bloody great holes in them anyway and it passed just sitting in the open. If you sink it into the boot you must not cut anything to do with the chassis. I removed the battery tray from the front of my LC and cut the xtra mounts off then bolted it to the floor of the boot so I used all the existing parts. (I couldn't run the triples Webers without moving it). Plastic battery boxes are cheap enough though. I use an isolater switch which i placed between the 2 front seats and made my own cables, heavy duty ones, ran it through the back under the back seat and out through the firewall to the starter. (items used= -terminal, +terminal, 4 x eyes, isolator switch, solder, flux, canister powered flame) I have also run an earth full length as I am going to run high compression later when I get the new head built, if you have a turbo or standard compression then you probably dont need it and could just bolt onto your body. 2 earths from motor to body would be recommended just in case. Run alternator wire to starter, which you can use as your direct 12v/13.8v feed for other items I think thats all I did.... Cost was around $200 mainly for the cable, copper aint cheap these days. I wired my EFI and have made AFM controllers and a lambda(exhaust gas) meter but I don't even know how it works really as I just followed diagrams lol. My next major electrical project is going to be building a MSD (Multi Spark Discharge) system. Dunno if this helps or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 buy a plastic battery box from ripco/supercheap find CaM's thread and copy what he did, cos thats what your gonna do anyway you'll need: battery box = 40 odd from ripco new cable = expensive, bout $10/m from like jaycar when i looked into it for thmini crimps = box from ripco/jaycar bout $15 isolating switch = $20 odd bucks, repco/jaycar supercheap cable clamps to secure cable to car =box from repco/jaycar $15 mash a couple of steel plates sandwiching box to bottom of the boot floor (steel panel, not the wooden false floor) use the original clamps secure to those steel plates, or possibly get new clamps to suit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Battery box (small) cable x5m ( i used 35mm square. could use 25mm) p clips x heaps isolating switch terminals extra earth lead I made my clamp from m3an flat steel, and threaded rod. acts as main earthing point. don't skimp on this. most cunts jsut screw the box to the floor and that's it. that's the reason you have to cert battery in boot. coz the morons ruined it for every other cunt. use your DIN battery, and run the breather tube outside. batteries make a cuntload of noxious fumes. that way everything's sealed. cost me like $60 all up. got everything form twl apart from bat box that i paid my bro $20 for I ran cable inside, then it goes through exh tunnel right at front, and winds up through subframe etc. so much more room up front for neons and shit withoutit up there. hook original earth to body. use new earth for down teh back. you could run itup the exhaust tunnel. minis rock that shit. but they're semi enclosed in a steel moulding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 you'll need:battery box = 40 odd from ripco new cable = expensive, bout $10/m from like jaycar when i looked into it for thmini crimps = box from ripco/jaycar bout $15 isolating switch = $20 odd bucks, repco/jaycar supercheap cable clamps to secure cable to car =box from repco/jaycar $15 mash a couple of steel plates sandwiching box to bottom of the boot floor (steel panel, not the wooden false floor) use the original clamps secure to those steel plates, or possibly get new clamps to suit I used: Battery box $20ish trade from BNT, think there about $19 at super cheap new cable i got from a welding supply place, was about $35 for 4.5 meters lug terminal cost me nothing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 BTW a bit of extra advice when I did mine I used 50mm (not 50mm thick) cable as I run a high compression 6 cyl If its 4 cyl then you can get away with thinner cable. This was from an auto sparky, its a bit like those thin jumper cables compared to the thicker ones, my holden would just about melt thin ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDE_BDY Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 DELETED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted February 1, 2008 Author Share Posted February 1, 2008 Cheers. Just about fell of my chair when I saw '50 mm', but I imagine that means 50 mm^2 which = about 8 mm diameter? Sounds a lot less 'Cook Straight Cable' anyway. Do you just clamp the outside of the box, or have to having something going inside it to clamp the battery too? I've never really paid much attention to those plastic box things. Keen to know more about MSNZ requirements, but I can't imagine it being too hard to rectify if the need arises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 just make sure you put a 60odd amp fuse as close to the battery as you possibly can. Don't need too big a cable... when done, put a muti meter on the battery terminals, crank the car and you should see minimal volt drop. do the same to where the battery cable comes out under the bonnet and if you get roughly the same drop you're sweet. get more (by sort of 2V) then use bigger cable or run a second one (fuse that too) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 What's the fuse for? I never did that worked mint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Incase your new cable were to chafe or melt on something and short out = fire Not hard to do if you're a bit rangi inclined Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Starter would draw more than 60 amps tho surely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Yeah^^^ 60 amp is tiny isnt it?? Starters draw fucking HUGE current.. I was thinking over 300amps! I didnt run fuse.. just kill switch incase of fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 yuh fuse/circuit breaker is OTT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 I think the starter will run big current but nowhere over 100amps i wouldnt think. And if you want to fuse it you could just use a 100amp resetable Breaker. Also run the most direct route and good grommets etc. You really don't want any voltage drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 Just check what fuse the starter has stock. My rolla is 100A, would probably be more for a bigger engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CXGPWR Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 I suggest welding cable for main lead, due to the the nature of weling cable(high currents & heat) Works mint. I use a 200A circuit braker which has never tripped. Thats on a 4AGE. I secured my box by making 2 clamps for the bottom of the battery box & using a slightly modified battery clamp. Secured the box with the clamps screwed through bottom of box & sealed. and secured battery with clamp. dont move at all. Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 fuse is not needed apparently, dont usuualy have them on factory car setups only the trigger wire for the starter solenoid has a fusible link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CXGPWR Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 ^ yes thats very true, but with a length of wire, it has more points it can short, if you want to take the risk or a dead short & fire thats your choice, i would rather be safe than sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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