Ke36 Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 some starters can draw like 300amps(i believe thats what a s4/5 rx7 one is rated too), i havent seen an automotive fuse of over that size? where did you get your 200a one and how much was it? also guna go to welding supplies shop towmorrow to get cable, specificaly what should i be asking for? 35mm square welding cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 Fair enough, forgot about the starter. Keep in mind most fuses will let you draw well over current for a little while and a starter only draws heaps to get going. it's only short bursts. Fuse it none the less. wouldn't want that battery to short out and blow up do you? if you're going to run a lead from the front of the car to the back, you'll wanna fuse it pretty well. There will be movement of the cable and it will eventually get through the insulation of the wire and short out. If you dont know what size fuse to use, just use one that is pretty grunty, but do NOT go over your cold cranking amp rating of the battery. If it shorts out and it cant deliver the power to blow the fuse, the battery will probably still explode (not a nice sight) EDIT; crap starters draw more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 I'v ehad minis that have 30+ year old starter cables that still hadn't shorted out. if you doit properly you don't need a circuit breaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 i wouldn't... not the whole length of the car but hey, go for gold buddy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted February 4, 2008 Author Share Posted February 4, 2008 Every time I see 'Ned' it reminds me of my uncle's dog, Ned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDE_BDY Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 DELETED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted February 4, 2008 Author Share Posted February 4, 2008 Waimaks - pics of VE batteries pzl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 i wouldn't... not the whole length of the car but hey, go for gold buddy. rofl. there's no reason why you need to anythng but just runthe cable and run anisolation switch. I'll crash my car ito anything nd it wont short out between the battery and the islation switch, just to prove it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 u just running an isolation switch on the terminal/in the boot? mounting one in the cabin would b my biggest problem, would rather a c/b than trying to mount that in the cabin within arms reach jaycar sell these two http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... &SUBCATID= and http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... &SUBCATID= the second is a bit ott with display etc and is more$$ but is rated 20 amps higher interestingly they say trip after milliseconds im more than happy to spend $$ on a c/b just worried its guna trip all the time/everyrtime i try start car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 no jsut ahead of the gearstick. there's nothing for the cable to rub on or get pinched by between there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 yea got no room for that shit there gotta centre consol steez etc seems pointless if its notwithin arms reach sooo will a 100/120amp c/b in the boot work boes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 Waimaks - pics of VE batteries pzl VE batterys are shithouse as. always going flat and shit, dum dum cars. Cop ve's run two bats in the boot. One standy, one in a marine box with tiedown stz. big red cable running down the middle of car through all the water etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtailfred Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 A few things to consider : Definitely run a fuse/breaker, if you care about your car/luggage/passengers etc. The reason they arent fused factory is the very short run direct from starter to battery. there are no sharp edges there and its very well secured. Your (and mine) home job won't be to that high a standard unless you try very very hard. All the stuff said about instantaneous and continuous current draw is true. I have a 100amp breaker and i have cranked continuously around in the driveway for about a minute without blowing it. If you do decide to be smart (not OTT really) and use one, make sure its really close to the battery and the cable between them is secure and safe or there isn't much point. Welding cable for the win, high temps, rugged, durable, some chem resistance etc. its cheap, and good. what more do you want. Sizing wise, its entirely distance dependent. IE, if you double the distance, double the cross sectional area. I've written some crap about this stuff in a thread on here before somewhere. stuffed if i know which thread though. maybe my own one? anyway, so if you factory uses 8mm^2 cable for the starter and its 1m long, if you want the same voltage drop performance at 4m long you need 32mm^2. for this reason, i went with 50mm^2 and it cranks like a bat out of hell. i wouldnt go under 25mm whatever you do. you can ground it to the panels, but i'd recommend that if you do that, you ground in at least two places and do it well at that. i grounded to two places locally and ran one 50mm fwd as well for ground. having said all that, i'm a mad cunt and definitely into OTT stuff! depends if you want it to work at all or work well. starters draw more and more current as they wear out. a good fresh one will be sweet. fred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtailfred Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 heres mine with 50mm cable in "60 amp" solder terminals. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4214.jpg note also the extra "8 gauge" wires are also fused. nothing goes more than 30cm without a fuse. i care that that ute doesnt burn!! EDIT, yeah, that discussion about wire size WAS in my thread, see the sig for the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 Welding cable is huge overkill IMO. Chris wired his up with the largest shit from Jaycar (which isnt very big) I didnt think it was large enough but its fine. Cranked for ages when trying to setup new system. Wire didnt change temp at all and starter turned fine. I run slightly larger but no where near welding cable size.. Guess if weight and looks isnt a problem then run it. IMO its ugly and overkill.. (which isnt always bad haha) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 its heaps cheaper aswell though isnt it?figured thats the main reason most use it for whats its worth i popped down and talked to the guys at nzefi and they never fuse/cb battery in the boot installs said just to concentraTE ON HOW YOU RUN IT, MAKING SURE ITS SAFE ETC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 i work with electronics all day, personally wouldn't use anything that wasnt fused.... "you don't need brakes in a car, just concentrate on how you use the gas and make sure it's safe" that sounds as silly to me as not using a fuse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Do those kill switches fuck out like a fuse if therer is a problem? Have heard of them fucking out before.. was wondering if it was from that or the contacts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 i work with electronics all day, personally wouldn't use anything that wasnt fused.... as i said im keen as to use a c/b but cant find one over around 100amps (links in my earlier posts) just went down and bought my welding cable it aint fuckin cheap got the 35 square stuff and it was around 25+gst a metre i was expecting a bit less than that but owell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 $25+ a meter makes for one expensive install! I brought my whole kit off trademe for $30 all new. Marine box DSE large cable (only used half of it) Bat terminals Kill switch Large lugs for earths Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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