phils new awesomeness eterna

[Brock-Lee]

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=58/CA=26

Hit that shit ^ if you want a sleeve stz. Other wise do some measuring and buy some super short full tap coilovers (BC's, tein, whatever you can find) and make up a new base.

But after rebuilding my coilovers twice before they have even come close to being in car, I am about to rebuild them again with BC's/whatever pops up cheap because it is the best choice by far.

[Ogre]

i can get a kit from bilstin (sp) for around $500 wit everything i need (no keepers tho), but they cant do the 54mm threaded tube apparantly only 51mm which fits the GSR struts im using atm, but i cant get brakes for my GSR struts so wanting to fit the starion ones and make them coilover etc etc................oh my, its getting complicated.

[fuel]

They are 55mm not 54mm, just be careful you don't want to order 54mm and find they don't fit. I actually used 62mm ID springs (210mm long, 9kg/cm F 8kg/cm R) from the GAB Legnum coilovers which strut body was only about 50mm in OD. I actually had to machine a little bit off the spring perches in order to run the 62mm springs as I was too cheap to go buy 65mm springs. If you buy 65mm ID springs to begin with you wont have the issue with the spring perches and threaded sleeves from George Stocks.

[Ogre]

i see, mean, cheers

[Jeffs_Emporium]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=295990508 like adapt these you mean?

[fuel]

that's more FWD style strut but should be able to work with a top hat change and a means of attaching the stub axle to the bottom, hopefully the hub attachment for the Evo4 winds off the threaded bottom. Take a look what kpr did with the BC coilovers for his AE85.

[Ogre]

I had forgoten about that. Its a damn good idea!.Plans are changing in my head now.SO yes, i guess the BC idea is cheaper .I lose.

[Trigger]

^

just go see "Dave" you know you want too...

[Brock-Lee]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=295990508 like adapt these you mean?

Those struts are super long. look at s13 ones they are alot shorter. Best way is to try and get a front end weight for your car and caluclate what droop will be on a certain spring rate. You can then make struts to suit desired amount of slam.

[Ogre]

^

just go see "Dave" you know you want too...

Lol, nah.You can

[Testament]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=295990508 like adapt these you mean?

Those struts are super long. look at s13 ones they are alot shorter. Best way is to try and get a front end weight for your car and caluclate what droop will be on a certain spring rate. You can then make struts to suit desired amount of slam.

ah so thats why s13 stuff is used so often on all different things? just because its the shortest easily available stuff?

[Brock-Lee]

They arent the shortest ones but are short enough to be used in some jap stuff. I think the main reason people use them alot is that they are everywhere. I really want to get a look at someones stock and have a play with the measuring tape to find the shortest ones they do.

FWIW Volodkovich used fwd cefiro front struts in his kb310 which are shorter than s13.

[mikuni]

ah so thats why s13 stuff is used so often on all different things? just because its the shortest easily available stuff?

It appears as though its easy to strip back to just the strut too. Just a matter of unwinding the base? Theres quite a lot of short stuff available, most front wheel drive stuff is short due to having the driveshafts coming through underneath, but Honda stuff is usually one piece, so not that easy to modify.

[Testament]

ah so thats why s13 stuff is used so often on all different things? just because its the shortest easily available stuff?

It appears as though its easy to strip back to just the strut too. Just a matter of unwinding the base? Theres quite a lot of short stuff available, most front wheel drive stuff is short due to having the driveshafts coming through underneath, but Honda stuff is usually one piece, so not that easy to modify.

What about stuff that doesnt have the hub as part of the strut and bolts to the hub? I think evo and WRX are like this but no idea on suitability of height etc. its crossed my mind for the 131 a few times but too much else to do on it to get serious about that stuff yet.

e.g. this style strut

[fuel]

I spotted just now a low milage Nissan 350Z 6 speed manual transmission on TradeMe $1100 - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =298151768. No one is bidding this time around so I hope it gets relisted where after a bit more research I may just snap it up.

Pics

The seller and some other people commenting on the auction are claiming it is a strong box, if not stronger than the R154. The dimensions according to the seller are approx 1.0m from bellhousing facing to the center of the shifter hole (but as it is remote shifter the shifter could always be brought forward a bit). From bellhousing face to the end of the output shaft housing is 750mm while the gearbox is 270mm wide and 300mm deep at its biggest section (excluding the bellhousing).

The main downside is that the bellhousing is not able to be separated from the transmission. So that would mean the only way to adapt it is with an adapter plate at the engine end of the bellhousing which would add a bit of length to the whole lot.

Another thought, is I don't know what the rear diff ratio the 350Z uses, but I gather it must be relatively high as they use such large diameter rear wheels. I am hoping I can still use either my 3.545 or 3.909 diffs with 205/50 R16's and still keep it somewhat usable.

Thoughts anyone?

[Ogre]

Do it!.6 speed behind your engine would be lush as, and would make your car real different aye.SO MEAN.

[mark105]

re gear ratios, a quick google gives you this. http://www.modified.com/roadtests/0405s ... index.html

Stock 2003 Nissan 350Z

1: 3.794:1

2: 2.324:1

3: 1.624:1

4: 1.271:1

5: 1.000:0

6: 0.794:1

Final drive: 3.538:1

final drive is diff ratio probably so id roll a 3.9 if you wanted a little more acceleration for the track.

i have seen a few nissan gearboxes now where they have done the chop the front half off and weld on the bell housing they are adapting to on to it, potentially could be a cheaper then an adapter plate because of the machining involved with making one unless you know some one who can do it for cheaps/free or you can buy one of the shelf. As at work i know a bit of welding from an engineer is about half the price of what machining is.

be worth looking at if you can score it cheaper then an R154.

[fuel]

ah yep I have a Pajero V6 bellhousing I could use to chop up. Thing is would welded alloy be strong enough? I don't want it to break in half at the welds later down the track.

also with the Nissan's 3.538 ratio, it drives through large rolling diameter wheels while I'm currently using a higher 3.909 diff with smaller diameter wheels, so would give epic acceleration but even in 6th gear it still may rev quite high sitting at 100km/h. I could switch back to my 3.545 ratio diff and chuck the 3.909 into the GT but it still would be higher revving than in the 350Z.

[fuel]

ahh cock! someone bid on that gearbox! there goes my oppurtunity haha.

[xsspeed]

At least you have new trademe search keywords now though!

For some reason I had assumed that the 350Z's were all 4wd, no idea why.

After seeing some more pics recently of a flywheel exiting a bellhousing and wreaking havoc, I would agree with you erring on the side of caution re welding the alloy. Even if not directly related, I wouldn't want to make it 'easier' for a flywheel to get out. Kind of easy to forget how much kinetic energy is there when revving at full tit.