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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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7 hours ago, cletus said:

Technically only a certifier is allowed to remove or fit a cert plate 

You will end up with 4 holes to fill and paint too  

Thanks for that, The plan will be to paint the car anyway so to weld up a few holes and paint isnt an issue.

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Eeesh 

Never seen that before apart from in a "hey look at this dodgy shit" thread  

 

Looks like the eye would be under a lot of stress welded on the side like that especially if the bump stop is on the shock  

 

Would definitely need some input from LVVTA before certifying that  

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Just now, cletus said:

Eeesh 

Never seen that before apart from in a "hey look at this dodgy shit" thread  

 

Looks like the eye would be under a lot of stress welded on the side like that especially if the bump stop is on the shock  

 

Would definitely need some input from LVVTA before certifying that  

Yeah I kinda figured as such. Might be worth going to a traditional shock of the right length or moving the eye. We'll get them in and see what we're looking at

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Yeah possibly. 

It probably looks worse than it actually is just because it's different 

 

There's 2 potential issues I can think of , one is as previously mentioned,  the eye being stressed but like bling says a gusset would fix that 

The other thing is the loading on the shock shaft will be slightly off center. 

Which would be similar /less than the loads in a mcpherson strut type suspension 

So if the internals of the shock were the same spec as a mcpherson strut (they have a bigger shaft and bushings to handle more load) then its probably ok  

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Ah yeah didn't think about that loading. Banana shock anyone?

My rear shocks came with similar length sleeve which doesn't make sense (to me) when you have a shock with that much thread to make use of. I ended up swapping mine for sleeves twice as long. Eye is pressed into bottom of sleeve so different design in that area.

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On 08/03/2022 at 18:31, Bling said:

Could add gussets full length of the sleeve?

Yeah we discussed gusseting it. Would be a super simple job and the base is steel rather than alloy which is nice. Alternatively, it's actually longer than the factory shock, so the factory shock would fit in there (not valved for the springs, but our certifier up here is a pillock and wouldn't know shock valving and spring rates if they took a steaming giant shit on his chest).

My cousin (vans owner) is an engineer and the suspension company has asked for feedback and installed pics so can probably go back and say "this is shit, send us a shorter shock insert and a base with an eye on the bottom rather than the side".

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It's likely done that way so the manufacturer can get away with using a common length shock, I'd bet that most cheaper adjustable suspension companies have a few different length inserts and make top and bottom mounts to suit each vehicle, whereas more expensive high end setups will be made specifically for the car

 

The fact it has that damper adjuster setup at the top adds a bit of length,  if it was a shock designed for that application then it would probably be more expensive but the adjuster would be at the bottom on the body

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know there are specific limits in terms of camber when going through a cert but is there anything similar for castor? 
 

I’ve gone from a steering box to rack and pinion and it’s increased the castor quite a bit - do I have to stay within factory specs?

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Slipping a bit of garden hose on the top and bottom coils of lowering springs to take up the tiniest bit of play when the struts are unloaded. Still fit securely into the bottom and top cups and are captive. Is this a problem come wof or cert time?

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On 21/03/2022 at 13:55, rusty360 said:

Hey Mr Cletus, have you ever certed some seat belts in the back of a 105e anglia saloon?

I don't remember doing one for upper anchorages, lowers should be easy enough if it's not rusty  

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2 hours ago, Banga said:

I know there are specific limits in terms of camber when going through a cert but is there anything similar for castor? 
 

I’ve gone from a steering box to rack and pinion and it’s increased the castor quite a bit - do I have to stay within factory specs?

Not like camber. There are suggested figures in the CCM 

In general= More positive caster = better

On a lot of older cars, the factory caster settings are near zero or even negative in some cases. Which doesn't work with modern tyres, suspension and steering 

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@bmxnz11not sure on legalitys but these would be more legit looking

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-service/steering-suspension/suspension-bushes/pad-kit-coil-spring-upper-47322/p/A1045688?kwSearch=spring

Or

Find some skinnier ones of these (mercs have them in different thicknesses fo adjust ride height)

https://www.adenstyres.co.nz/products/universal-spring-spacers-10-15mm

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1 hour ago, bmxnz11 said:

Slipping a bit of garden hose on the top and bottom coils of lowering springs to take up the tiniest bit of play when the struts are unloaded. Still fit securely into the bottom and top cups and are captive. Is this a problem come wof or cert time?

I'd suggest using some plain black hose of some sort. There's probably nothing wrong with using garden hose and it will likely work fine but it might be the sort of thing that draws attention from someone who might be a bit fussy 

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