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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Adaptors are easy- max 30 mm, must be located by either tapered seat wheel nuts, or locate on the hub spigot. properly made out of suitable materials etc etc.

Spacers (slip-on type) are trickier, usually have to be custom made.

max 20mm

Must be single stud pattern. ie not those multi fit 4/5 stud slotted hole ones

surfaces must be parallel and flat.

no holes other than the holes for the wheel studs and locating bolt

wheel must be supported by hub spigot not wheelstuds

spacer must be attached to the hub or wheel

wheelstuds still have to be long enough

made from suitable material etc

note adaptor size is max 30 mm now-

also someone asked about gps speedos 238765 pages back- that has changed as well, cant use them any more

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Wasn't so much asking about whether they're certable or not. It was just general interest about why there is a difference in limit between a 20mm bolt on spacer maximum and a 27/30mm maximum bolt on adaptor limitation. I mustve misread the guide, because where it says it must attach to the hub or wheel, I thought it mean it needed to bolt on as it does with an adaptor.

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hey cletus,

want to set my firewall back, put in a new tunnel and also add subframe connectors in my gemini can you see any probs with that?

subframe connectors were going to be heavy wall 50x85 box section,

to do this i'll have to cut the back of the rear lower A arm body mount off to let the subframe connector pass behind it,

tunnel out of 1.6mm or 2mm sheet.

also would like to remove front seat pedastal mounts and replace with heavy box from the subframe connectors to the rockerbox's/sills.

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Love your work here Cletus.

Quick question, I'm making some caliper brackets like so:

gqnvcxzi.nil.bmp

So bolts to the strut, and to the caliper.

Is it okay to make things like this out of Aluminium, come cert time? Any issues with needing to be a particular grade etc?

There are no threaded holes in the Aluminium, and it's 12mm thick from memory.

Will be using all 8.8 grade bolts with threads excluded from the shear plane, and machined that so there are no jagged edges which could cause cracks etc.

Also, what are the specifics about fitting ABS and traction control to a car that never came with it?

I think I read something about the entire system needing to come from one car. Does this mean the calipers etc all have to come from this vehicle?

Current plan is to set the brake bias with a wilwood adjustor to what suits without the ABS, and then have the ABS enabled over the top.

However my only concern is that the calipers will not be *exactly* what came out of the original car, even if the bias is corrected and the piston area ratios etc are similar.

If that's not allowed, are cars that come factory with ABS allowed to cert different brake setups while retaining ABS, or no?

Thanks.

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http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ystems.pdf

2.3 (27) is the only part that deals with fitting abs, however it only mentions scratchbuilt vehicles. what sort of car are you doing this to?

I would suggest getting in touch with Justin at lvvta

tech@lvvta.org.nz

i cant see why you couldnt do this, if done properly. it is possible to cert brake upgrades on a car factory equipped with abs.

12mm alloy should be fine, how much of a step will be machined into them for clearance?/is that what the grey lines are?

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Thanks for the info. :)

I'll write up an email.

Car is a 1982 soarer with the engine, gearbox, power steering/rack, ABS, traction control, aircon, etc all from a 1997 JZX100 Toyota Chaser. All wiring forward of the firewall is now chaser stuff.

The only wiring required outside the engine bay for inclusion of ABS etc is the wheel speed sensors.

That was an earlier revision of the drawing, so similar shape but the step is smaller than above and approx 3-4mm deep.

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FYI, Falken tyres rim vs tyre size spec sheets. So these sizes are 100% legal.

Most aren't that relevant to us, but they stand by their 195/45 R14 & R15 up to 8" wide rim, aaaaaand many of the 17/18" tyres are very 'stretch friendly'.

Ie, 225/35R18 is good for a 18x9.5 [ http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll21 ... oad9-1.jpg ]

worth having a look through, anyway...

ZE912

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?kw3p7p3l68a4bw2

FK452

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?yr7fckezb9er48s

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with regards to what zeb just posted, dose anyone know what can legaly be stretched onto a 14x9?

Toyo say their 225/40R14 T1R Proxes is good up to 14x9. That and I guess like Eagers haha....

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FYI, Falken tyres rim vs tyre size spec sheets. So these sizes are 100% legal.

Most aren't that relevant to us, but they stand by their 195/45 R14 & R15 up to 8" wide rim, aaaaaand many of the 17/18" tyres are very 'stretch friendly'.

Ie, 225/35R18 is good for a 18x9.5 [ http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll21 ... oad9-1.jpg ]

worth having a look through, anyway...

ZE912

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?kw3p7p3l68a4bw2

FK452

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?yr7fckezb9er48s

thanks for posting that, ive been looking online for manufacturers that have a better range of fitment, without much luck

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Does anyone have any information on what requisites a modified/scratch built motorcycle? I've been looking for ages but there doesn't appear to be much information on it. I know it says "light vehicles" in most of the LVVTA stuff, but lot's of it doesn't make much sense when applied to motorcycles.

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