cletus Posted May 21, 2023 Share Posted May 21, 2023 Ive got to have a look next time im on a computer if that method is still ok The seat standard and CCM mentions that you CANNOT weld seat anchorages to a unibody vehicle I have certed a lot of them like the pics, because its a time tested way of doing it but i have a vague recollection of a certifier update saying it cant be done unless it has an authority card 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 21, 2023 Share Posted May 21, 2023 On 20/05/2023 at 14:17, linearentropy said: Increasing steering angle. I get quite fuzzy with the terms thrown around in the standards. Specifically toyota lower ball joints as pictured below. You can get cast items, not cut and welded that increase steering angle. (And i'd assume quicken up steering?) Is this something that is legal? Assuming there were no other issues caused, so rubbing of guards, frame rails or contact with control arms, is there any reason these cant be certified. I'm guessing they change ackerman but thats over my head at this point. Cant see why not, if its a reputable manufacturer,passes bump steer check, ackerman within tolerances,it drives ok, and meets lvvta requirements 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 21, 2023 Share Posted May 21, 2023 On 20/05/2023 at 00:48, Kerry-TGI said: @cletus I do get it, I'm probably venting. What's my best course here? Depends how legit you want to be and how much you want to spend The correct way would be get it certed The other way is change it so it meets wof requirements , get wof, then either leave it like that or roll the dice on putting it back to how it was when it was stickered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted May 21, 2023 Share Posted May 21, 2023 I wouldn't cert a car for the sake of bumpstops. Once certed, you're stuck with those wheels, cert width tyres, that height give or take 5%, along with most other parts not able to be changed. How much suspension travel do you have now? Like how much can the wheels droop if you jack the chassis. How much does the suspension compress when fully loaded. Rear of my car has 60mm of compression along. Looking at your project pics, is there a void above the wheels for them to compress into? Or if you loaded it up it would sit on the cut bumpstops straight away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted May 21, 2023 Share Posted May 21, 2023 16 hours ago, cletus said: Ive got to have a look next time im on a computer if that method is still ok The seat standard and CCM mentions that you CANNOT weld seat anchorages to a unibody vehicle I have certed a lot of them like the pics, because its a time tested way of doing it but i have a vague recollection of a certifier update saying it cant be done unless it has an authority card Thanks Clint. Happy to do it another way if needed. Just wanna make sure I do it right! Another question of the fun bumpstop kind - since I'm swapping to rear coilovers, strengthening the towers and all that jazz, can I now just rely on the bumpstops integrated into the shocks? My understanding of the manual suggests it's ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted May 21, 2023 Share Posted May 21, 2023 11 hours ago, Kerry-TGI said: Only the rear hits on serious bumps but I just bought all the steel to make a new flat deck so the wheels can move up into space then those bump stops could be shorter. On the front the wheels tuck in slightly when the ground is not level but the tyres are a bit stretched it would touch the inner guard otherwise. I put the factory steelies back on it today and there was probably 60-80mm gap with the bump stops in the rear as far as I picked up on when it was jacked up, not sure on the front but without load there is about 30-40 mm to the new bump stops which are 10mm It's not ultra slammed or anything but I wouldn't mind not having to deal with cops again cause I want it this height https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Suspension_Systems.pdf Try that link, has a bit of info for your stuff. When you say 10mm, is that bumpstop size? If so that won't fly, I think they had a newsletter that featured super short "stops" that aren't actually designed for replacing tapered / dampening bumpstops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 21, 2023 Share Posted May 21, 2023 51 minutes ago, zep said: Thanks Clint. Happy to do it another way if needed. Just wanna make sure I do it right! Another question of the fun bumpstop kind - since I'm swapping to rear coilovers, strengthening the towers and all that jazz, can I now just rely on the bumpstops integrated into the shocks? My understanding of the manual suggests it's ok. The way I interpret the book, it is OK to do seat anchorages the way you want to. They aren't attached to panel steel floor, so does not have to be doubler plates Bump stops on shocks will be fine as long as they limit travel before anything fouls 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted May 21, 2023 Share Posted May 21, 2023 I just bought a C4 corvette, pre airbag model, and the steering wheel is buggered. Is there any problem with swapping the wheel with an aftermarket one? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted May 22, 2023 Share Posted May 22, 2023 I can't really give you the right answer to that. I'm not sure of the rules of using bumpstops that aren't OEM. If you never plan to run the factory bumpstops as they are again, trim them and make them look factory and hope for the best. Mine are trimmed and tapered but are also covered by my cert so different story. But one option is free and the other involves buying non OEM units. So i'd go with free and hope for the best. As as been mentioned, not legal without cert, but purely posting an opinion not a written guarantee it's a good idea in your case lol. If the factory ones fit currently you could just put them back in for check then do as you wish after. I'm not sure how picky they will be, unless it's low enough that factory bumpstops have the ute resting on them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted May 22, 2023 Share Posted May 22, 2023 1 hour ago, cletus said: The way I interpret the book, it is OK to do seat anchorages the way you want to. They aren't attached to panel steel floor, so does not have to be doubler plates Bump stops on shocks will be fine as long as they limit travel before anything fouls Cheers Clint, you're the man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 22, 2023 Share Posted May 22, 2023 2 hours ago, Kiwibirdman said: I just bought a C4 corvette, pre airbag model, and the steering wheel is buggered. Is there any problem with swapping the wheel with an aftermarket one? if its good quality , bolts on etc, no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted May 22, 2023 Share Posted May 22, 2023 2 hours ago, cletus said: if its good quality , bolts on etc, no problem Thanks Clint Planning to recycle the SaaS wheel off my Firebird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 In regards to what? Cert rules? Or wof ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 If I want to repaint a motorcycle frame with a vin tag riveted on it, can I just drill rivets, remove tag, paint frame, and refit tag once frame is all tip top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 3 minutes ago, Goat said: If I want to repaint a motorcycle frame with a vin tag riveted on it, can I just drill rivets, remove tag, paint frame, and refit tag once frame is all tip top? Youbare supposed to take it in to vin place, have them document it, and refit it when frame is done. I have removed and reinstalled factory plates and no one has ever questioned it. Waka kotahi one might get questioned. None of them had special rivets tho 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 yeah, rivets are just run of the mill, so how could they tell? Plus, its not like that vin wont match the frame/engine numbers too. Not doing anything dodgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 If the vin tag shows signs of being tampered with, it can cause headaches Common signs of this are spinning the rivet head when you drill it out, the tags get damaged easily They are also glued on, when they are scraped off the tag gets damaged in a way that makes it obvious its been removed 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted May 24, 2023 Share Posted May 24, 2023 Whoever does the VIN stuff can take it off and document can't they? Then refit when all finished. Not sure what that costs / if anything, but could remove future you problems. At least a motorbike is easy to cart in to get that done. Would really piss in your cereal if you fucked it while trying to remove it yourself. However unlikely. At least if they fuck it, it's by the book so should be sweet. /edit more posts loaded after this, tortron covered my post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted May 24, 2023 Share Posted May 24, 2023 In regards to air ride systems. Do the components need to be tagged/stamped/labelled at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted May 24, 2023 Share Posted May 24, 2023 15 minutes ago, shizzl said: In regards to air ride systems. Do the components need to be tagged/stamped/labelled at all? You mean the bags themselves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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