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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Just go to a different WOF place, if they failed it on that too, investigate it further. It's really the easiest solution IMO.

If the car didn't have it from factory, then I don't see how it can be expected to have one installed now. If you can't see evidence that it has been removed, and it has been passing WOF checks it's whole time on the road... My gut says aftermarket stuff will not be allowed without cert. OEM is at least known quality, aftermarket can be a shit show, thus needs to be checked / approved / certed.

I looked up brake proportioning valve on aliexpress for the lol's, this was on the first page. 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32989771506.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.21.59cca9a8j5UTNa&algo_pvid=9cecc3d3-72a9-4379-b52f-6f2c04a3afa0&algo_exp_id=9cecc3d3-72a9-4379-b52f-6f2c04a3afa0-10&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"66792891068"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!NZD!37.96!37.96!!!!!%40211bd4cd16795348344407871d0745!66792891068!sea!NZ!116624700&curPageLogUid=31RAH62HUUlj
i'm not saying buying it for a second, just thought it was funny. As you were.

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Your best bet is to pop into a Toyota parts desk, ask them to confirm if your car came with one & ask them nicely to print a letter that says it didn’t. Then you have confirmed it is “as manufactured” unless, of course, it should have the load sensing valve.

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4 minutes ago, Kerry-TGI said:

What is the legal limit regarding lowering blocks? I've heard 2" but could 2.5" sneak in or be legal without cert?

Not if your WOF inspector is awake

image.png.28f2b4e0a36385521abbe9a22ba7cefb.png

Technically 50mm is a smidge less than 2" but you'd probably get away with that difference.

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If a vehicle goes in for a cert and is all tickety booh on that day on inspection.

how long is the process from there?

 

I remember my first cert was around a 2 week wait between the inspection and plate being attached.

is it still the same with the current system?

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12 minutes ago, cletus said:

it should improve further soon as we now have the option of sending the whole lot electronically which will make it much faster 

Does it go on our microchip that we had implanted?

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I thought it would be the same as a nait tag for cows.

your given your tags, you use them as you need and just enter all info online and submit. Cow goes on its merry way.

 

shut, with all the modern technology we have and the amount the end user pays, you’d think they’d get with the times more efficiently.

 

must suck for you guys @cletus

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On 21/02/2023 at 23:01, cletus said:

As far as i know

Authority card is only to cover the fact the car has a cage/harness/other stuff you wouldnt usually be allowed in a road car

Log book is to keep track of events,details of cage, race classification etc. 

If the car goes on the road = needs to be registered and wof. I dont think theres any way around that 

Pretty much this^^

@xsspeed

My civic is no wof but or rego (on hold) this makes sense as I have the gear to cart it places, and I don't have the admin of 6 monthly wof. 

You will need a log book which dictates a safety audit every 3 events, and realistically if you are going to race a car then a couple of grand for a rollcage is cheap. Some events will allow noncaged cars but I wouldn't bank on this continuing into the future with the latest round of FHR rules.

 

No wof/ reg =  it's fine for track days, and hillclimbs (road closure events), but not suitable for rally, or tarmac rally ( targa etc..) these require the fruit that @cletus mentioned including authority card.. often there is a short run from the pit area to the start of the road closure, in the ~50 events I have done this hasn't been a concern.

Process is:

Join MSnz affiliated car club membership.

Build cage.

Fill out cage paperwork, take photos, fill out log book paperwork pay money. I think it used to be burn cd and post away but might have moved on since then..

Get log book in the post.

Paint the rollcage.

Put all safety stuff in car.

Get friendly with local motorsport scrutineer.

Do your own safety audit according to schedule A to check for dumb shit.. take note where fasteners or distances are specified.

Buy lots of decent safety clothing etc 

Get scrutineer to visit, pay them beer to do initial inspection before your first event, and mark off pre inspection in your shiny new log book.

Do a skid.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I dont quite get what you mean? 

The driveshaft will move up and down less the closer it is to the gearbox,so for arguments sake if the diff goes up 50mm the middle of the driveshaft will go up 25mm. 

But 

You do have to keep in mind how much the pinion angle changes which affects driveshaft to tunnel clearance. Diffs move heaps on leaf springs 

 

I did this video ages ago ,  ba wagon had 2" blocks and the bumpstop was chooched so the driveshaft would rub under acceleration 

https://youtu.be/u0tODUUOE8Q

 

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Ah right. For some reason i thought we were talking about a falcon wagon 

If its a hilux you should be able to lower it without any drive shaft issues hitting 

 

As nominal said, you may end up with vibration issues though. Some utes need the center bearing raised to reduce angles

 

I would suspect that if you are not notching the chassis, it probably wont be low enough to worry about though. 

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Its my work car in that video, lol.

I used to drive around with all my work paperwork/manuals/tools in the boot,that gave it extra slam

When i got the suspension done they put nolathane bumpstops in the rear,they lasted about 3 days before they split and disintegrated 

I put the stock foam ones in again, they have survived 80,000 km since

 

 

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