linearentropy Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I've just had a certifier tell me he isn't even going to start the certification process on my MX5 due to the position of its welded in rollbar. Its made by a guy thats done at least 30 for mx5s, and is a MSNZ approved design. The issue is the A interior impact zone. The LVVTA standard (see attachment) and the cagemaker measure the seat from the middle of its fore & aft movement, where as the certifier has measured it from the seat right back. Is there any reason why the certifier is measuring it differently to the standards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Have you talked to him about it? Might just be a case of him not remembering that is where it should be measured from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linearentropy Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Yeah I mentioned it. He just said that in his opinion it should be measured as far back & reclined as possible, because the full range of the seat should be 900mm from the rollbar. I understand where he's coming from since he's putting his name on the safety of the occupants so to speak. Its just frustrating that due to a lack of space for the web-clamp seatbelts, the only option is a fixed back seat for both driver and passenger. Considering the roll-bar itself doesn't meet the certification thresholds it seems rough that its enough to fail a cert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 The rule says mid point. Maybe discuss with Justin at LVVTA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 If it's written in black and white, and someone has modified a car as per the rules, then I think if would be unreasonable and probably not legal, to require something different to what the rule says. I personally would agree with the logic behind his reasoning, but that's not what the rule says... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachlander Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 What's the deal around making new metal guards/overs? Thinking of reshaping my rear guards, by cutting off the arch and shaping a new one. I'm guessing all that needs to be done is for the inner to be fully sealed to the new piece? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxPower Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 hi there have put a newer engine in my old van but have had to drop the engine crossmember down 24mm, (1980 L300) have machined up some alloy blocks for the job, is this okay? or should i modify my crossmember with the mig? engine x member is seperate to the front end x member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 28 minutes ago, MaxPower said: hi there have put a newer engine in my old van but have had to drop the engine crossmember down 24mm, (1980 L300) have machined up some alloy blocks for the job, is this okay? or should i modify my crossmember with the mig? engine x member is seperate to the front end x member. Yep sounds ok if it's just an engine x member with no steering or suspension attached, bolts are long enough and have lock washers, and driveshaft angles are still good 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 3 hours ago, beachlander said: What's the deal around making new metal guards/overs? Thinking of reshaping my rear guards, by cutting off the arch and shaping a new one. I'm guessing all that needs to be done is for the inner to be fully sealed to the new piece? If you cut the original guard line higher, and remove the spot welds, you have to weld the two skins back together, it also has to be sealed and painted etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Get the certifier to have a look or at least take plenty of photos too before you paint or seal it so he can see how it's been done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linearentropy Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 On 10/10/2017 at 22:02, cletus said: If it's written in black and white, and someone has modified a car as per the rules, then I think if would be unreasonable and probably not legal, to require something different to what the rule says. I personally would agree with the logic behind his reasoning, but that's not what the rule says... I've since had a few calls with Ken at LVVTA. He has confirmed that it should be measured from the centrepoint and will discuss it with the certifier when he's back from a holiday. However when I asked about the vagueness of the "seatback in a normal driving position" for the passenger side, he wasnt able to provide any real answer. The only solution he gave was to stop the seat from reclining, which the certifier already ruled out because its reversible as well as a potential point of failure. Again the difference the A zone contacting the roll bar or not relies on how far back the seat is reclined. Considering the cert process hasnt technically started, is it worth me finding another certifier who isnt currently on holiday to go with who can discuss it with LVVTA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 I'm investigating front brake upgrade options for my Triumph 2500... It uses a disc bolted to the rear of the hub using 4 bolts with a pcd of approximately 85mm. If I wanted to replicate this mounting arrangement by drilling new holes in some appropriate larger diameter vented discs, what would be the minimum acceptable distance for the holes to be to the center location hole? If that makes sense. As an example, I found some renault discs that look like a possibility. If I drilled 4 new ~13mm holes at a 85mm pcd, that would leave about 5mm of metal between the edge of the 61mm hole and my new 13mm holes. Would that be okay, or too close? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 On 12/10/2017 at 14:14, linearentropy said: I've since had a few calls with Ken at LVVTA. He has confirmed that it should be measured from the centrepoint and will discuss it with the certifier when he's back from a holiday. However when I asked about the vagueness of the "seatback in a normal driving position" for the passenger side, he wasnt able to provide any real answer. The only solution he gave was to stop the seat from reclining, which the certifier already ruled out because its reversible as well as a potential point of failure. Again the difference the A zone contacting the roll bar or not relies on how far back the seat is reclined. Considering the cert process hasnt technically started, is it worth me finding another certifier who isnt currently on holiday to go with who can discuss it with LVVTA? Why not fit fixed back / position seats to rule out any issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 I'd consider finding a new certifier, e.g. Clint Field (who is Cletus on this forum). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 9 hours ago, Adoom said: I'm investigating front brake upgrade options for my Triumph 2500... It uses a disc bolted to the rear of the hub using 4 bolts with a pcd of approximately 85mm. If I wanted to replicate this mounting arrangement by drilling new holes in some appropriate larger diameter vented discs, what would be the minimum acceptable distance for the holes to be to the center location hole? If that makes sense. As an example, I found some renault discs that look like a possibility. If I drilled 4 new ~13mm holes at a 85mm pcd, that would leave about 5mm of metal between the edge of the 61mm hole and my new 13mm holes. Would that be okay, or too close? Probably ok Does the center hole match with the hub? Or is it bigger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 17 minutes ago, cletus said: Probably ok Does the center hole match with the hub? Or is it bigger? I haven't taken it apart yet, so I don't know. I just did some quick and dirty measurements last night while it was assembled. Hopefully the hole is the same size(unlikely), or larger. If it's larger I expect I would be able to get a 'sleeve' machined and pressed on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linearentropy Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 12 hours ago, Firetruck said: Why not fit fixed back / position seats to rule out any issue? Yeah thats what I'll be doing now. I'm in touch with a couple of people that have Lotus Elise seats they might want to get rid of. They fit perfectly into an MX5. I didn't want to go for a Sparco or what have you for the passenger side as its not exactly girlfriend friendly. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickrock Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 At this stage its a hypothetical question as deal isn't done but a mate wants to sell me his registered and warranted Holden less the 500 hp chev in it , if I brought it and threw in a bogs standard 304 Holden (originally a 6) will I need to get it re certified What he's asking for it is less than a panel shop would charge for the mint paint job on it , he's in process of acquiring a restored Camaro that is now less the motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 Yes would need re cert. Have you considered putting another chev in it? Then it wouldn't need re cert 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickrock Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 That a bigger cause I got a 304 and trans sitting under the bench It comes with a fully rebuilt auto that works like a AMT would a injected Chevy be ok with out a re cert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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