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Found 49 results

  1. Bought R100s Ke70 wagon for use as a daily. Very nice, close to no rust. Basically mint. Picked it up on the weekend using a quite fancy towing rig I borrowed from a friend (Who has been using it for 20 years without fail). Would have used an actual trailer but my mum's Rav can't handle it and my friend's truck was being used to move house. So we got the car onto the tow rig: And the tow rig was working great! Until... Disaster Struck!: One of the tires popped while towing. We didn't notice for a solid couple of minutes and as of that not only was the fender dented back, wires pulled out and bumper broken but the rim is also absolutely destroyed. So we chucked on one of the back wheels, taped the wiring to the car, and went on our merry way... Then that popped too. And it popped a lot sooner than the other tire. Meaning that we were scared. Not only because 2 of the tires popped, I mean, how often does that happen? But the car also had only 1 spare tire, R100, lent out the spare tire and never got it back, lol. Second flat also destroyed what was left of the bumper end cap AND pulled out the wiring we had taped to the side. And with pulled out I mean that the wiring is absolutely gone. Nothing is left. Anyway, we chucked on the last tire and drove into Taupo (30ish ks away from where we had the last blowout) and we left the car with some friends for the time being: Kinda sad story. Hoping to pick up the car soon. Meanwhile buying some stock ke70 wheels so I can get the car onto trailer. Then need to find someone in Napier with a ke70 to check what all the wiring is that I am missing. Also want to buy right end cap for my front bumper, lol. Discussion, for if anyone has any tips.
  2. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57479-hyperblades-kp61-racecar-beams61-discussion/ Moving over my project from the club-k forums to make it a bit more public for those interested. So it started when I brought this 1984 Toyota Starlet Racecar, I wanted something I could drive to the track, while still being safe during racing, hence the roll cage. It came with a 2L Altezza 3SGE BEAMS engine with the 6 Speed box, already in it and a really good build history from the original owner. Sale thread here has some more details: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38220-fs-1981-kp61-starlet-race-car-certifed-homologated/ More to come...
  3. Discussion thread :https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60328-a-dogs-83-toyota-starlet-kp61/ Hello Gents, I have been watching this forum for a while to gather helpful information on this little project car I have. Being in America it is very hard to find parts and proper information on modifying starlets. So here I am to pick your brains for all the great Starlet knowledge you all have. The plan for this little guy is to compete in Auto Cross at the local level. I already have a 240SX drift car, So now I can use this as a grip car. THE BACK STORY The year was 2003, I was a junior in high school in Beautiful Bozeman, MT. My best friend Gabe got this little hatch for his first car. Totally stock 1983 Starlet 2 door with the mighty 4KE motor. We used to drive this hatch around thinking we were Colin Mcrae. Hitting jumps at 45mph and attempting to "drift" turns around town. He was a terrible driver and because of it the Starlet suffered. All four wheels were bent from hitting curbs all the time. So as time went on Gabe moved away and the Starlet sat at his dads warehouse for over ten years. One day Gabe came to town and he said I could have the starlet if I took good care of it. So that is exactly what i did. I picked up the starlet with my trusty trailer and brought it to my dads house. Gotta love that custom wood grill. Nothing like having a park bench for a rear bumper. USDM bumpers are MASSIVE. The rear end is in great shape(thank GOD) The interior was pretty rough from years of teenager abuse and sitting. Missing the center dash vent and the seats were junk. Windshield totally busted from angry child syndrome. Steering wheel has garden hose wrapped with electrical tape. Real Classy. Open the hood and behold the awesome 75HP of the Toyota 4KE! Motor has 150K miles on it. YEARS AND YEARS of dust on the engine.
  4. Well I've been on here for quite some time, but haven't gotten around to doing a build thread, so here goes, at last, not that I've been that good at taking pics! Way back in the mid 90's, when I was a teenager looking for my first car I fell in love with the many Celica XX that cruised the streets of Auckland. I looked, and looked, and looked for ages to try and get one, initially just manual 2.8's then considered autos, 1G's turbos and even the poxy SOHC 2.0, but they all had a killer combination of being relatively expensive, and rusty! As a first time car owner, with a Dad who wasn't in the least bit mechanically minded it was a bit too daunting. So eventually I gave up, and ended up with an ST162 Celica, which served me well. In all honesty it was probably a better and more suitable car at the time in many regards. Fast forward a good few years, and in 2011 I came into a bit of money and thought to myself that I'd like to get a "toy". So I started considering my options. I was working at Nissan New Zealand at the time, so thought about a Silvia, or 180SX, considered a Skyline etc, but I kept coming back to two cars that I'd always loved, the ST205 Celica GT-Four, and the MA61. I'd sort of kept an eye on MA61's showing up on Trademe over the years, and thought about buying one in the past, but the timing was never really right. Anyway, I'd found a GT-Four that I liked, and an MA61, so it took a bit of deciding. The GT-Four had fairly high mileage, but looked a little tidier than the MA61. Well, in the end I decided to go for the MA61, and scored her for NZ$5500, after getting a little more carried away with the bidding than I probably should have. The next problem was that it was at the other end of the country. This was a drawcard for the purchase however, as it was in Alexandra, very appealing for a rust prone car. So I got her shipped up, and went to pick her up. Did I mention I'd bought her sight-unseen? She was a little rougher then I expected. I could see from the pics online that she'd need a serious cut and polish at least, and figured she may need a repaint. Well, when I had a good look I could see that both sides had had repairs and been repainted at some point, and she was a number of different shades of red. There was also a patch of filler lifting in the RH quarter, which wasn't really mentioned in the ad, but I didn't let that worry me too much, I figured that I'd just bring my plans for a repaint forward. So here's how she looked when I got her: More to follow soon, as those who have seen her know, she don't look quite like this any more. Discuss here if you wish : //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44250-styles-1982-toyota-celica-xx-28gt-discussion/
  5. Picked up a AA60 coupe. Girl friend promptly named it something girly ha It's pretty dam tidy with very little rust. I made s point of pulling plait off to feel around and it's pretty sweet. Motor runs mint, clutch would have been done not long ago, interia all there and good con, coupe little strainers here and there. Full digital dash 3A T50 (22 spline I'm told) Small axel One very open diff And a truck ton of body roll. Will be left standard for a while. Plans of SSR mk3's New fixed shock and spring combo all round to get it low and stiff Lock diff or LSD And swap the 4agze out of my aw11 into it once the 7A finally goes in //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52439-ashs-a6-carina-coupe-lyfe/
  6. Hey Team, so after declaring never to by a rust pig again....... I did it - FML 1st Mission is to fix the rust, which was waaaaay worse than first expected. Then do a 1UZFE conversion keeping the factory W55 5 speed.
  7. I have bought a poorly treated, unloved 1981 KE70 Toyota Corolla, with the vision of restoring and also upgrading it to the 3SGE Beams Black Top. I want to set the car up so it can be taken to the track and also used as a show car. I have bought a 1999 Toyota Altezza with a 6 speed manual box and the donating Beams engine. Will post photos and discussion as the project goes on, please feel free to ask questions
  8. All my old photos got deleted from hosting, so rehosted them on Imgur, My old man in the background, we built this together, all started with me having a carina shell and going back to uni so I gave it to him, he decided to put the turbo v8 in it and the rest is history. See you oldschoolers Saturday 11th December
  9. Swannie

    Swannie’s KP60

    Long time stalker, first time poster. So I brought this NZ new 1983 KP60 Starlet back in August, and will be giving it a spruce up over the next 2 years. The end goal is to do the MG classic meeting at Manfeild in November 2020. I’m only the 5th owner, the first 3 being old ladies and the last being an older guy that had it for 20 years, so it is all original with a genuine 408,000km on the clock. still on the original 2K, but it’s pretty tired.
  10. Hi all Here is my discussion for my KE20 Corolla build.
  11. Toymakers ke70 discussion thread ps. I help post content for the toymaker but we are both working on the car
  12. I'm not sure where I got this info but I thought I'd share it. First of all some basic info about the F series Diff. Crown Wheel: 7.5" Braking: Drum and Disc variations RA65 Celica = Drum RT142 Corona IRS = Solid Disc MA61 Supra = Vented disc MX73 Cressida = Vented Disc YR22 Tarago = Drum MS112 Crown = Drum Corona Mk2 = Drum RT142 live axle borgwarner discs can be adopted (semi) easily onto some F and T diffs F series ratio info here on Toymods too. http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=msg&th=33561 To see which ratio your F diff is check out this: Read the Axle Code from the vehicle indentification plate. first digit: ring gear diameter A 138mm B 145mm C 6.25" D 6.62" E 7.1" F 7.5" G 8" H 9" J 9.25" K 9.5" L 10.5" M 12.5" N 13.5" P 14" Q 12" R 162mm S 6.38" T 6.7" U 6" V 10.6" W 15.5" X 142mm Y 158mm Z 202mm - no ring gear = FWD Second, third digits: gear ratio 01 3.30 02 3.36 03 3.545 04 3.556 05 3.70 06 3.889 07 3.90 08 4.111 09 4.222 10 4.375 11 4.444 12 4.625 13 4.79 14 4.875 15 5.125 16 5.286 17 5.60 18 5.714 19 5.833 20 6.167 21 6.667 22 6.78 23 6.833 24 7.64 25 4.556 26 5.571 27 3.364 28 4.30 29 4.10 30 3.727 31 3.909 32 6.591 or 4.807 33 7.503 or 5.583 34 6.781 or 4.786 35 7.636 or 5.60 36 4.778 37 3.583 38 3.417 39 3.154 40 5.375 41 3.308 42 6.500 43 3.550 44 3.214 45 3.533 46 2.928 47 3.944 48 3.356 49 3.729 50 3.400 51 3.736 52 3.722 53 3.250 54 3.941 55 3.333 56 2.821 57 4.058 58 3.238 59 3.234 60 3.519 61 2.724 62 2.892 63 2.655 64 4.312 65 3.837 66 3.071 67 3.526 68 3.095 69 4.176 70 5.857 71 2.962 72 3.949 73 4.285 Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no Code pinions ls 2 2 no 3 2 yes 4 4 no 5 4 yes Example: F372 = 7.5" 3.58 final ratio 2 pinion diff. Will not be stamped on the diff, you will have to check the build plate on the firewall of the car you pull it from. LSD Availability: Altezza LSD's form the likes of Kaaz etc will bolt in but a spacer ring needs to be made up for it to work. Can anyone shed more light on this? Steroidchickens? Tomei Altezza centre into an MS112 Crown = Works, no problem! Cusco Altezza centre into YR22 Tarago = Success! IRS centres will bolt straight into Live axle F diffs so you could use an MA61 LSD but apparently no good for proper driving with small clutch plates and small surface area they aren't very effective and usually well worn out. An aftermarket 1.5 or 2 way or locker is your best bet for grip or drift work. See Kaaz, Tomei, OS Giken, Cusco, (TRD no longer available) Side note for celica/cressida/irs corona - Altezza/RS2000 Cusco LSD was a nightmare for my diff guy into RT142/RA65 IRS centre probably due to the car not being LSD to begin with. Machining and lots of hunting for correct bearings needed. Have been told (but can't confirm) that the MA61 diff centre half shafts are needed as they were lsd from factory and are shorter to suit. Torsen and Truetracs LSD's are also available. Many hilux 4wd live axle ran 7.5" FRONT diffs too 80 and 90's, possibly 2000's. Lots of options from 4 wheel drive aftermarket companies. Cars: MX13 Cessida - 3.9 - 1410mm (Same width as T series/S series/KE70 BW) Tarago YR22 - 4.1 manual and 4.3 auto - 1435mm Uses a G series (Hilux) diff nose flange bolt pattern (60x60mm) All other F series is 55x55mm) Crowns: MS110 Solid Axle (coils) F362: 7.5", 4.77:1, 2 pinions, Open 5x114.3 1450mm Solid disc MS112 Solid Axle (coils) F292: 7.5", 4.10:1, 2 pinions, Open 5x114.3 1450mm Solid disc MS123 Semi trailing arm IRS F285: 7.5", 4.30:1, 4 pinions, Clutch LSD 5x114.3 N/A Ventilated disc, 1 piston calipers MS50 Solid Axle (leaf) F292: 7.5", 4.10:1, 2 pinions, Open 5x114.3 unknown Drum
  13. Here goes! Ever since I sold the RT40 I have had a yearning for another high powered old Toyota. Two years of grinding away at renovating a shitty house and I finally have the time & money to enjoy an OS car again. Priorities changed somewhat however and the idea of starting a project like that from the beginning after this house renovation scared me and my bank balance. So after some arm twisting and dinner cooking for the mrs it was decided to go and search for something "finished". This little car was mentioned to me by some Oldschoolers and I had followed the build thread of it over on Toyspeed since it's inception. I guess I'll start with some specifications from the previous owner (because I'm lazy) and pictures from today after I had given it a wash, machine polish & wax to a level I was happy with! Discussion Fred Engine: Model: 7A-GTE Block Internal Spec: Factory crank shaft, Forged ross racing pistons and top seal rings, H-beam rods, ARP bolts throughout, toga race bearings and oil pump Cylinder Head Spec: Rebuilt Factory 4a-ge 20v blacktop vvti head with Supertech Valve springs and TRD steel headgasket and ARP headstuds Intake system: Factory 4a-ge 20v Blacktop ITB’s and MRP 2-peice plenum with 3” intake Turbo system: New Holset turbo supplied by steve murch, x2 Tial 38mm MVS wastegates, MAXfab custom thickwall stainless steel manifold, HKS ssqv bov, Fuel System: 60L Jazz fuel cell, carter lift pump, surgetank, bosch 044 fuel pump, full braided Teflon lines through to 800cc SARD injectors, turbosmart FPR-800 regulator Ignition System: x4 1nz individual coils mounted to a CNC’d made-to-suit aluminium adaptor plate Exhaust System: MAXfab Full 3” stainless steel exhaust system, x2 inline mufflers through to custom dump tip Cooling: 3 Core custom aluminium realdeal radiator with electric fan, setrab oil cooler and 500x250x56 tube & fin intercooler with 3” inlet/outlet Engine Management: Link G3 ECU (upgraded to g4 Firmware) with 4-bar MAP sensor and electronic boost solenoid Engine Bay: de-loomed engine bay, custom aluminium oil catch can, custom aluminium overflow bottle Other: gilmer drive pulley kit, remote oil filter kit Driveline: Gearbox: W55 supra 5 speed gearbox Flywheel/Clutch: Quartermaster twin plate clutch with billet flywheel to suit with ARP flywheel bolts, willwood reverse cylinder mount pedal box with remote reserviors Differential: 4.1 ratio LSD shortened hilux rear end Other: custom 1 piece driveshaft with custom driveshaft hoop Suspension: Shocks: Front – shortened shocks and modified OEM struts fitted with coilover sleeve kits and custom CNC’d camber tops Rear – adjustable shocks and reset and stiffened leaf springs with custom made anti-tramp bar setup with chromoly rods and QA1 rod ends Others: Cusco TE27 front strut brace, custom made swaybar to suit engine position and nolathane bushes allround Brakes: Front: 4-pot FD3s s6 RX7 front callipers and sloted rotors with steel braided brake lines Rear: s13 single pot claipers and rear sloted rotors Wheels and Tyres: Wheels: 17x7” (F) and 17x8” ® genuine work meister s1’s Tyres: Pirenza 205/40/R17 all round Exterior: Panel & Paint: Prep and paint done by Jason price, finished in a custom holden green Other: New indicators, park lights and headlights, all new window and door rubbers/channel, straightened and rechromed front and rear bumpers, doors and boot fitted with solex locks Interior: Seats: x2 Racetech 1000 bucket seats and factory rear seat Steering Wheel & Gear Knob: woodgrain steering wheel and stainless/bronze gearknob Gauges/Meters: Autometer cobalt digital boost gauge and autometer cobalt oil temp water temp and oil pressure gauge Audio: Pioneer Bluetooth headunit mounted in glovebox and alpine typr-R 6x9s in rear parcel tray Performance: Dyno Power: 320kw @ the rear wheels on 23psi with previous masterpower turbo setup, have since gone to a smaller holset unit for more response, currently making 280kw on 20 psi and full boost at around 4000rpm
  14. Link to discussion thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52819-the-night-riders-1986-toyota-mr-2-aw11-discussion/ Alright so a bit of background for those who care to read: I bought this car recently from a car collector after seeing an internet advertisement for it. The collector was an older gentleman who had quite a few old American cars and some others such as a Merc, mini, and all three generations of the MR-2; apparently he was wanting to thin the herd down a little. So basically I gave this guy a call asking about the car and its history, He didn't have internet so we ended up having a few back and forth conversations before finally agreeing on a price. He was quite nice and funny to talk to so it wasn't like hard negotiations or anything, more just like talking about the car, which was nice =) To be honest I didn't really think that I'd get the car so I was kind of surprised when we finally agreed. What! I bought a car unseen in person over the phone from some guy 6 hours away! I had never done this before. Anyway the day came to pick it up, I was pretty nervous that it might be really rough in person or weather or not it would even make the trip back home (like I said it was a collectors car so not driven much). Because of this when I finally arrived home with a very clean AW11, I was so glad. I must have spent about an hour or so just walking around it looking at it from different angles while the sun set. ...Skip forward a month or so and the car suffered some pretty bad overheating, lol. Basically the engine is cooked (probably can be rebuilt). Despite this, I love this car way too much to even consider selling (I've been though quite a few cars btw). So there was no doubt in my mind about what needed to be done... it will be reborn. I'm going to be replacing the engine (will keep original engine for a future rebuild) and because everything will be out of the car I will also do a manual swap since there is no better time for it. I want to keep it original for the most part, but will likely have a few light modifications. As I said, I only had it for a month or two before this incident happened so the craving to drive it again is steadily building. Some pics of it before the incident:
  15. Link to build thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52818-the-night-riders-1986-toyota-mr-2-aw11/
  16. Hey all. Discussion for the project thread on my Corolla Wagon. Cheers, Oli. Read.
  17. Hi all, Meet PogoSan. Affectiontely named so by the Girlfriend. A strange specimen, imported from Japan, a Ke74 "van" featuring high roof and some other goodies. Other goodies include a mighty 5k-j twin squash, t50 gearbox (from the factory!) and a lot of ride height. My plans include: Fix rust + paint. Restore interior. Retro sounds. Low. Retro jdm wheels. (Ssr mk1s?) Extractors + exhaust. Carbs. (Quad cvk carbies?). Msd ignition. The distant future may include: Full engine rebuild. - Cam. - Solid lifters. - Head skim. Lightened flywheel. Electric fan. LSD. Who knows... I am currently stripping down the car for sanding back, rust repairs and paint. More on that soon. Cheers, Oli. Discuss.
  18. So... basically i don't know where to start, but here goes. Bought this Ke20 the other day, $3710. First car and pretty stoaked. She's got a fair bit of rust, only a couple of nasty deep holes, mainly paint bubbles and surface. Paint needs redone etc. Engines running on three cylinders... Interior is pretty good, drivers seat needs a small upholsters touch up along rear seat but nothing major. Carpets are pretty whorey. Anyways heres a pic of it, more to come. Plans for her are to tidy her up and jdm style. Make her loud and quick as i can. Keen to keep the old 3k in her however... Discussion here,( //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51303-harrys-1973-toyota-corolla-ke20-sedan/ ), anything regarding the build helps as im young with not a lot of knowledge, any tips or places for parts, anything would be helpful and much appreciated. Cheers Harry
  19. This is my kp61 starlet build when i first got my hands on it it was an auto but was fairly tidy i had crack at manual converting but it didn't turn out the best so now im going back and repairing my terrible work and hopefully ending up with something that can beat my dads mini clubman it was running a 4k and a kp k50 gearbox but i am currently deciding what im going to put back into it. this is it as it sits awaiting panel and paint Discussion here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48354-beige-bullets-1984-toyota-starlet-discussion/
  20. Pterodactyl

    ECU connections to Toyota EFI Checker

    Hi Everyone I want to connect the ECU in my car to the old EFI Checker I found on Ebay. According to all the manuals, the plugs should match but they don't. The ECU serial number doesn't seem to show up on google or anywhere else yet. It would be great if I could find some more plugs and make an adaptor lead. Does anyone know here I could get some plugs like these? There are some photos here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskuFUhzr The car is a 1980 Celica XX, MA45, with M-EU engine. I'd really appreciate some new info info on this. Cheers!
  21. Pterodactyl

    Engine shutting down - fuel cut

    Hi Everyone. I have an intermittant problem has been going on for a while, perhaps several issues have been at play. On rare occasions the car would cut out completely and not start, or fire at all. When was in that state there was no fuel at the cylinders and the fuel pump not running. I could make the pump go with the test connector. It would always come right eventually so I've often thought the problem was solved after fixing some issue or another. Oxgen sensor, fuel filter and air filter have been replaced. The airflow meter was definitely not sending the right signals, it's been replaced Fuel pressure regulator was replaced but apparently I didn't need to do that Throttle position sensor is good The igniter was suspect and has been replaced i've been driving it quite a bit lately and thought all was good, but then engine cut out for moment - half a second or so - and carried on. That actually happened a few times in the past too. It hasn't cut out completely since replacing the igniter. This hardly ever happens so it'll be hard to find through testing but maybe people with experience could suggest something. This is the first time I've played with cars. I know very little but I'm reading a lot and learning slowly.
  22. Discussion for the Corona coupe, would love to know about any others in NZ. Compared to the Celica there are far fewer photos and much less info on the Internet about them. Cheers!
  23. For discussion on my car, please visit - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48408-scrmntoys-1983-toyota-ae85-discussion/ My AE85 project purchased in April 2015. 1983 Toyota Trueno Sprinter with Levin front end. 187,800km on the clock, only traveled 10,000km since 2004, has been in storage for the last 3 years and owned by previous owner for 8 years. Originally imported to NZ in 1991 to Dunedin. Has been a Dunedin car up until the previous owner moved up to the Bay of Plenty. Plans for the AE85 is to turn it into a nice tidy street car with tasteful mods. So far the hard work has been done and is just a matter of improving on whats already been done and tidying up the panel and paint. 4age 2nd gen bigport with 7 rib block, Factory exhaust headers with free flow exhaust. AE86 2 piece driveshaft and with open diff, rear disc brakes, old owner said said diff is from a celica but unsure of this yet as he wasn't 100% certain Nolothane bushes throughout all suspension components T series box, unsure of what model yet, K-Sport Coilovers, All certed - Also says reinforced rear shock towers on plate 17x7 wheels with spacers (bit too big for car I feel and wrong styling for the error or the car) Came with 13x7 rims aswell. Currently temporarily have put my 15x7 wheels off my AE92 as 17s aren't the best to drive with. Fibreglass bonnet with bonnet pins.
  24. Hey guys I'm new to this forum and just wanted to share my project that I'm trying to restore
  25. Hey knowledgeable Ninjas, Manual steering sucks. I'm over it. I've been trying to piece together enough knowledge to find an alternative but the bits and pieces I've picked up keep sending me in circles. I've got other plans for the car, but before all that it's biggest short fall is the steering. There were factory power steering units for this car but hell if I can find one. Apparently Crowns up to an S110 have the similar/same power steering, but modification to the pitman arm is needed. That's no big deal but I can't find a wrecked one of these either. I've seen crowns on line with whole different steering columns, so is it a case of finding the matching dimensions and custom fitting it in? With all this in mind, I have a 2J under the hood and the mid/rear sump in there has been notched to fit the drag link/centre link arm. And a fatter power steering unit will get in the way. Is there such a thing as a power assisted version of a manual steering box? Where the power assist happens further up the column and I can keep the current centre link set up for sump clearance? Or am I talking bollocks, and all power steering happens downstairs which means I'll need a new "true" mid sump, or front sump and custom cross member to fit? Any info or links to info would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.