phatt20

blossom festival is coming up later this month? drags on sunday etc. we normally rent a holiday home for the wknd in clyde.

ive got a milwaukee fuel 18v gun, it smashes every other one ive tried, including snap on , dewalt and hitachi. (the other boys with these brands keep pinching mine daily) fucking ridiculous what size bolts it undoes. 5ah batteries last like two weeks or more using every day. havnt touched an air powered one since i bought it.

as in like a roofing gun type thing that takes hex drive bits?

another route iv done on a few cruises is dunedin to waihola via the coast road, then a few beers and a snack basket at waihola pub, good for pics etc down by the lake too. not too big a drive not too short either.

sounds cool. what have ya done with the fuelling side of things? sealing of carbs, pressure reg etc?

im keen , think the ke is still legal, it hasnt moved in a while.

standard ke20 one will work.

vaguely remember these having trouble with the main relay up under the dash, symptoms sound similar to what your getting.

top ten camp ground is quite good up there.

ive heard good things about getting gearbox internals cryotreated . between that and better bearings it should make things hang together a little better?

got taken to nzta over a trailer i did a wof on, and then was sold, apparently surface rust was not surface rust, (it was) we won, but jesus christ the mind fuck they put you thru makes you paranoid / arsehole wof guy.

where bouts are ya hitting it? usually just give them a couple of good smacks on the face between the studs and they pop off .

i used an auto trans shift cable on the last paddle shift i mades, worked mint and was free.

what carbs ya guna use?

the one i built bout 15 years ago is still going strong, thats with massive cams and 8500 rev limit. they are really strong engines, pistons have heaps of meat on them.

iv built a few of these, (one in the build at the mo) early 2tgs need the block ground to clear the crank/rods, late ones dont, there are several different types of head, the best head has a smaller combustion chamber and needs the pistons machined to have an offset dome to fit, use the 3t rods and pistons, the pistons need to be fly cut, in saying that all the ones iv built have had big cams so more lift means more flycut, if using the 3t block you have to block off the oil gallery to the rear cam bearings. dont fuck around with the factory injection its shit, crappy vane a/f/meter etc, they always go better with sidedrafts.

its a single one of the pair of 2tb twin carbs, 2/3t single carbs have bigger bolt spacing. yep they require a bit of jet work. have a look down the top of the carbs you have and the venturi size will be stamped on the venturii , use a good torch cos they are sometimes hard to see. mechanical secondaries are better for throttle response , vacuum secondaries are good for driveability/economy etc.

i say fuck the weber, i build heaps of these things, and webers are a pain in the arse to fit/tune/fuck around with for little to no gain, factory carbs work mint if they are jetted right, make sure you go for the latest model 4/5k carb with the bigger venturis, remove the vacuum opereated butterfly and plug the holes for mechanical secondarys, you can also use one of the 2tb twin carbs on its own, bigger venturis, bolts straight on , vacuum secondaries but can be easily modded for mechanical operation. webers can be made to work, but for the hassle and expense its far easier to either work with something factory, or just bite the bullet and go sidedrafts or bike carbs etc. a guy in oamaru done a 14.5ish 1/4 mile on a modded factory carb on a well worked 1430cc 3k race car (factory carb cos class restrictions)

the old man done a big section of the roof on his house with butynol bout 20 years ago and its still sweet, shit is magic.

just a thought re; extractors, have you got them braced to the gbox/bell housing? if not they just become a very expensive flexi joint for the whole exhaust.

wtf when did it become alcohol free?

we use wyns at work, gets put in with every antifeeze service, its a water pump seal lube and non clogging to radiators etc. seen it stop a few leaks in radiator tanks etc, works best when the cooling system is clean/well maintained.

action panelbeaters are who we use for rust repairs, on carol st.

coming thru dunedin at all?