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flyingbrick

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Everything posted by flyingbrick

  1. Hope he didn't pay their asking price
  2. What he said. I'm not a gearbox specialist but sounds very very odd to me. Those seals are pretty good be hard work for oil to get in and out. That and the fact there's just no need to leave them in there when they flick out so easily! Also, two random things to think about- does the oil flowing through the races provide a cooling effect on the bearings? Is flow of oil to parts of the gearbox restricted by these seals? With regards to the origional bearings being nice- without knowing how much care they took to remove them and how tight they were on their shafts/housings they could have been damaged. Generally speaking bearings are cheaper than the labour to access them and the other associated extra costs with having them fail. I always consider assembling something with old bearings to be bad practice. (Rambling as usual soz)
  3. How much money do you need for this. I might buy. Txt me 0211632717
  4. Could be wrong but from a pedestrian. Impact standpoint I'd say ur screwed.
  5. Very very cool. Looks like you have done well so far! I see you sandblasted those parts its a good trick when things aren't perfect as it hides all sorts. Stopping from speed must be scary. I bet after some practice you could lift up the rear wheel and ride it like a unicycle!
  6. That definitely looks easily done. Just get them redrilled between the other holes. Any decent machine shop should be able to do this for you- they can easily and quickly be bolted to a mill and the pcd mapped out. If ur the diy sort you could also mark out and drill the new pcd with a little thinking
  7. Did he paddle out to point of splashdown with a tape measure?
  8. That's shit. Too much power for ya friend?
  9. Did ya find out what went into the engine? Good ya got that rust dealt to. Was that an old repair?
  10. Fuck it looks great now! Man I'd kill for that as my daily. Where are ya working on the car? Is that a Ferrari I see?
  11. What's it say? Too high is OK, helps impress all the ladies
  12. How accurate is the HP thing? Does it measure based on vehicle weight/ acceleration or injector duty cycle?
  13. tyre swans are not suitable ornaments for the safety conscious fireplace operator.
  14. Maybe dumb q but why's copper better? Just coz weaker ignition system?
  15. Yep done cf. Vac bagging is cheap. All you need is the plastic and a pump plus a catch can for the resin. Fridge pumps are perfect for this. The vac infusion method is cool BUT you can still end up with dry spots. Just as easy to wet it out by hand and then place in bag. The bag ensures that everything is sucked tight into the mould and only the bare minimum of resin remains. You really need to vac it to get the layers of cloth and the fibers really tight together. It also must be hard separating the two rigid moulds from each other with your part in the middle!
  16. OK so the mould should be sanded smooth then sealed with a durable paint/epoxy then sanded, then polished with finer and finer grades of paper and polish till its like glass. Then million coats of wax and buffing. Then.. Ditch the underside mould and get some mylar and a vacuum pump (like a fridge pump). Apply a layer of resin/ gelcoat with a roller or spray gun and let it go green before you lay on the cloth. Do the cloth and resin thing then place in a mylar bag that you made earlier.. Seal up any holes with duct tape and tape in a hose to ur vac pump. Have a vac tank catch can thing inline so any excess resin is caught before it goes into the pump. Sorry if telling you to suck eggs but vac bagging is really the only way you will get a light and strong professionally looking piece.
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