locost_bryan

2011 Focus RS - 130mm longer, 250mm wider, 60mm taller, 625kgs heavier.

Mantis from The Avenger comics?

Perhaps a variation on the rocker covers of the Sunbeam Tiger - "Tiger powered by Chrysler"

Looks amazing. How much would that have set him back? (If it's not confidential)

Latest Ecopia 300 tyres are a big step up from previous generation, much quieter and work well in the wet. Had the previous gen on the Jazz and they were scarily vague in the wet, replaced with latest ones and drives like a normal car and very quiet. Would recommend for normal commuting and non - performance touring.

Same as Jag V6 from S-type, should be easy to find engine and auto at dismantlers, or whole parts car cheap. Nissan V6 also good choice from 350Z or Skyline? Should be plenty of those at the wreckers.

My Mazda6 had it the other way round, far more logical. Mitsi forums had a simple trick to fix it - swap around the micro-switches and the +/- labels.

Happened in heavy rain, in the dark, with a 20 year old behind the wheel, on a moderate left hand corner over a crest. Sadly, I suspect you're right.

There was a comment on the Cortina site about replacement non-GT cast arms, as the pressed steel ones were prone to rust.

Try the Mk1 Cortina club http://www.mk1cortina.co.uk Appears that all the "standard" cars had the same struts and pressed steel arms, but the GT and Lotus had cast or forged arms and different struts. NZ cars should have been assembled from CKD kits of English parts, unless they used Australian CKD kits.

Tech info for matching sender here http://www.veethree.com/temperature-gauges.html

69 bhp gross (SAE) = 59 bhp net (48 bhp/litre), Imp was 39 bhp net (44 bhp/litre), likely around 20-25 rwhp.

I thought 13x8 were about the same price as 13x7, based on what Palmside are selling Revolution wheels for on the Tard. 205/60 tyres would keep your gearing the same as the 155s it originally came with, or go for 215/50 or 225/50 to fill the arches better. Good job on the resto.

Just what Mazda thought...

Just give the 1300 the usual period upgrades - warm cam, extractors, big valve head, or do same to a 1500 if you can find one? Or just leave it stock and enjoy it as the Lord (Nuffield) intended? A bit of bedtime reading http://triumphspitfire.rickbaines.com/weaknesses-of-triumphs-1500-engine/

That's effectively what Triumph did for the Vitesse and GT6, except they stuck with the 1600 and 2000 to give the ex-Herald gearbag a fighting chance...

Nice looking car. A MK IV, so with the sorted rear suspension? At least the gearbox can handle the power from the 1300, unlike the more powerful and heavier cars that used variants of it (GT6, Marina and non-Sprint Dolomite).

Search "Pimp my Imp" on youtube...

Most local assemblers did a seatless van version of their wagons for tax purposes, Ford even did a Cortina van. Had to have a panel covering the seat space, although most got sold with a seat from the parts department for fitting at resale time (yeah, right).

You wouldn't sell anything, they don't go anywhere without a supply in the boot along with the spare fan belt and sundry Lucas bits. lol

Ben the Car Wrangler is on here as "The Dude". Pleased to hear nothing major has gone wrong with the van.

Faulty repro rotors seem to be a widestream problem in the UK.

Yep, you're stupid, but in the best way possible. You now own two of my favourite Rovers. Hope the engine starting/running issues aren't too major - dirty contacts or a broken wire, not broken computer.