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That's the AC input without a wire in the pic, the wire I used I cut to length to suit where I had the rectifier mounted and it had a female spade terminal. /Basically it wasn't hooked up as it wasn't mounted.
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kaidotyson joined the community
- Today
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Got the balance shaft removal bits and some new injector seals.
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Actually going by a coon page I joined looking for parts, the EA coons seem to be worth considerably more than a certain much newer model. So technically Igor's coon goon is already an appreciating classic!
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how is it wired up? Looks like there is a connection on the rectifier not being used??
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Mount that rectifier away from anything that may melt, they can get fucking hot. I found that the voltage in DC circuit went up whenever I turned the light on, no idea why or how but I'm guessing it's something to do with the common ground between the AC and DC circuits and the way the rectifiers work. Would go from about 14v at cruising rpm to 16-18v. Maybe your larger capacitor will help with that though.
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I've got these components so I'll try this for now, can try that method after if it doesnt work
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It certainly does.
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Hey mate, thanks for the reply! I had similar thoughts about using the wires going to the emissions control box in the passenger kick panel. Is this the one you are talking about? As I say the only wire that had power to that was the black yellow upon ignition.
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ok its gone
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i told you to throw that diode in the bin Peter... you better not put that in... you could solder wires with glue lined heat shrink to the cap, cable tie them to the cab as strain relief. Then crimp spade terminals to the wires to go to the bridge rectifier? Bolt the bridge rectifier to something metal as a heat sink? A bit of water will be fine, as long as it's not submerged. You could put some dielectric grease on the connections if you're worried about water
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yeah should be able to. it does the same thing as I am trying to do?
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wow talk about a can of worms, sorry to see you dig a little bit and end up with more and more work. Looks like you're well on the way though so good luck!
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LED lamps will likely blow as most scooters run the headlights off the ac circuit
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Hey Cletus just wondering, if a car has had a section of the floor replaced and this needs a repair cert. how would one find the repair cert paperwork? ive done a car jam report and it doesn’t say anything, nor is there any other paperwork to go with the car do these get logged on a system of any sort? thanks ash
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I don’t think we have ever had more than 3 Hawke’s Bay people at a local meet before, seems like no one ever wants to exit their caves. /let’s do some stuff
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White will come straight from the battery so be careful where you tap in as it might not be fused If it’s like my 3A there should be some weird emissions box thing above the glove box, have a look at using the feeds and 0v to that. That way your using factory loom and fuse so will keep it tidy and the ecu fuse in the fuse box instead of a random inline one witch can be hard to trace. black with yellow strip should be starting circuit and go to your starter relay and solenoid?? There should be another black (with maybe a red stripe?) that will feed other accessories witch might be better for switch feed
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Can you fit this in the space you have? https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/electrics/listing-2157455276.htm?rsqid=328059dc3efa49608edcfce1d4023725-004
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Becuase I don’t know any better and am just following this YouTube video
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slowboy changed their profile photo
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slowboy joined the community
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That's some good hints but i find it works if i use a different code library in the nano. Go figure. With regards to the bike parts. I'd go heat shrink and something like waxoil over the top, so you can remove it if you have to. Silicon is a one time thing. I've used wax but i don't think wax would like the wet heat-cold bike environment much.
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Why adding another diode to the rectifier?
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Sounds like a question for @cletus.
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Fuck yeah!! Ramz....
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somewhat related to this thread, I have 3 electrical components I need to solder together and fit into my motorbike. The area they are going is not guaranteed to be water proof and there will be lots of vibration. What are some tips for keeping everything alive and working? silicone over bear metal connections, or heatshrink? can I silicone the bridge rectifier to the capacitor? I think everything is oversized and wont spend its whole life at peak temperature. There isnt enough room to put them in a watertight box
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Bought a Fiat 500D a couple years ago for the Mrs. Was supposed to be a quick panel and paint, re reg and enjoy. Had beers with angle grinder out. Discovered many cancers. Got depressed. Moved overseas and forgot about it. Moved back to NZ and it hasn't turned itself in to dust so I decided to get it done. Hopefully making a thread will motivate me to finish it.
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Yeah seems to be good so I’ll do the fluid and leave it. went for a blat yesterday and she’s pretty fucking guttless, hits 20km then falls flat as a pancake. Smokes like fuck too. the old Columbian Man i bought it off had the carb rebuilt and said it’s run far better since but with 8 other scooters he’s not had the time to look at it. im thinking it’s a mix of a blocked up exhaust and maybe running a bit rich so I’ll take truenotchs advice on cleaning that out and see if that helps. aside from that, it starts so easy a toddler could kick start it haha all the switches work but indicators stay on so Ill wire in a new flasher and chuck some Ali LED lamps in it to brighten it up.
