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That sux to see. maybe someone’s dropped the Torrington bearing at one point

That would be a very tricky balancing game. Too far forward and I'd have many guard rubs. Too far back and there's not enough suspension travel on the back axle so the rear wheels will lift off the ground.

I'll need some tighter radius bends for the manifold and the dump pipe so ordered a donut and some more steam pipe bends. Also got some heat sleeving for the ac lines. If I'm lucky I'll be able to use it for the water and oil lines for the turbo

Yeah looks like a cheap china quad?

I havent done any v8 stuff. but on 4 cylinder 1.6L making around 175hp at engine. this is close to ideal setup , after the collector its 2" then tapers up after the vband to 3" into a glass pack. after that you can get away with more sins. So yeah if you want to get fancy with it, carry on tapering down your collector to 2", run 2" for for a bit, then chuck in a 2" - 2.5" exducer cone with 2.5 inch reso's directly after that, bigger they are the better. some of the small ones dont really do much. think of the reso as the exhaust ending. after that do what you like really. merge into a single 2.5 or 3" and add mufflers till its quiet enough. you might grab a little bit of power off the bottom and in the middle doing it that way. otherwise your original plan will probably work fine

That's friggin sweet! Looks to be quad bike based?

I've used a couple of m&h resonators and was quite disappointed with them tbh. Didn't take any of the rasp out of the exhaust note (honda) I've used one of these Xlerator Enforcer Glass pack along with a turbo flow from the same company on my wagon and am really happy with it's note

Dumpys/fart cannons are fucking terrible. They often sound terrible because theyre too big for the engine displacement. Yeah bro, my 2K/2FE corolla goes hunnits with this 5" pipe....... /im not even sorry the law doesnt allow loud pipes any more.

Inspiration for the next build?

Bad news, i think all the irons are beyond repair, cracks in one of the bridge ports, and center of a iron I suspect the water was getting in here... maybe? There is some pitting in the face of the iron around here And lots of substantial wear, i can catch a fingernail on a lot of it, makes me wonder why they are so deeply grooved and the alloy housings are mint...? Anyways, on the lookout for decent s4 s5 irons now, i may get away with one of them but id rather some mint ones for peace of mind and they are surface coated so any lapping or machining would remove that i believe... correct me if im wrong ... Well i gotta say, im not really surprised, but i am disappointed in the old 'built' engine with less than 5k kms

So i pulled the thing apart, good news all the bearings look fine and the rotors as well as all apex seals etc. and alloy housings look to be in good condition...

We have owned this little Moke for about 4 years now and since I'm starting to do a bit of work on it, I figured I'd start a thread as it might be of interest to others. So, first up a bit of background. When we lived in NZ, Mrs Flash owned one of those newish 1275cc SPI Rover Minis. It was a Jap import that someone had done quite a bit of back dating on. A lot of the changes were fairly subtle, but the most notable things were the fitting of 10-inch Watanabe rims to replace the original 13-inch units and the removal of the modern dashboard that was replaced with a classic centre mount speedo. The car was a little rocket and super fun to drive. Sadly, we made the decision to sell it before heading off on our Australian adventure and last I heard it was somewhere in Christchurch. So fast forward a few years and we are now permanently OZ based and looking to get back into some classics. We often thought back to the fun that we had with that little Mini and decided that owning another little Leyland would be good. The climate over in tropical Queensland lends itself to something a little more open and so we set our sights on a Moke. After checking out a few we ended up pulling the trigger on a fully restored 1100cc powered 1974 Californian look alike that was going for reasonable money. When I say reasonable I really mean that after doing my own sums I concluded that I couldn't have restored a clunker to this level for the money that was being asked. So, after swapping a few calls with the current owner together with the studying of some detailed photos a "deal in principle" was struck pending final inspection. We grabbed a hire trailer and headed south down to Noosa hoping to be returning with a loaded trailer. Gave it the once over, took it for a quick drive, some cash changed hands, and this happened: In my next update I'll talk about the maintenance undertaken to date and then a little bit about the current work being done. Thanks for looking.

Back in the day there was an old gulls in Whangarei that made his own mufflers. he did the exhaust on my fxgt one night, started at 5.. the deal was that I bought him dinner and $250 cash. it sounded amazing when I drove away. basically a folded up box, 2” in, 2-1/4” out, the was a 90 angle on its end on both ends to direct flow left and right, and a 50x50 box in the middle, he called them “race box mufflers “. He did 2.5” from the floor pan to the rear muffler which was glass packed. it blew the glass out after a year or so of 7200rpm abuse. my mate had the same set up on his mk5 cortina, shit that thing was quick with that exhaust and twin throat. the shop is no longer there, was opposite where pak n save is in town. id like a better muffler on the hunter, those stainless dummy’s don’t do squat

I had to disconnect the ibs sensor in my 650i or it would drain the battery for fun... "Intelligent"

Would you recommend one or two different reso's per bank (and are the M&H ok)? And what about pipe size? My collector is 63mm, should I step down to 2" or 2.25" through the resos and stick with that all the way, or go up to 2.5" through the muffler? Remembering this thing is likely around 125hp per bank at a guess.. And do I need a balance pipe before muffler or would that be sufficient for the balancing aspect (will be above diff). Im open to sticking with a twin system right the way through but am trying to keep it packaged pretty tightly hence the 2 into 1. I also dont have heaps of room for a tail pipe so might side exit behind the wheel. Thanks man

1 year wofs for cars that are 10 years old. This is a rolling date. 6 months wofs for everyone else. While we are responsible motorists, you only have to look at the state of some of the cars and vans driven around here that shows there is a blatant disregard for maintenance when it comes to new New Zealanders and tourists.

For me its finding someone actually reasonable that understands old cars, having a little bit of cool with them. That understands the actual rules, doesnt claim everything needs cert. or doesnt expect it to be like a 10yr old car. For me, its not about it being unsafe, noone wants that, but just being reasonable to some mods and bit of oldschool.

I guess we could do the handover ceremony in chch.

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on this one.

Well it made the deadline to have it sorted for the supercars weekend. A great time was had by all, did a wee pest around Taupo but mostly spent the weekend either at the track or in the pool.

I'll make sure to loosen all the powersteering pump bolts to make borts sharn sound more feasible.

Nah the throttle body and airflow meter sit right on top of it where filler cap was now. The cable bracket was 1-2mm away from it so had to move. Other side is actually fine just needs a funnel I suck at pouring anyway.

Can you fill from the other head if you had an oil cap on the other cover?