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And the same rotors as the type r Hrv swaybar etc might be a option too as the hrv apparently logo based so might be some honda lego options there

Pretty sure you can use first gen hrv stuff like this guy with the bonus of 5 stud (B series turbo optional)

Since the last post Stripped paint off the underside of the body and repainted it Exhaust; Modified to hang it closer to the body to avoid dragging it down the road. I added flanges to the pipes near the rear axle to make any future removal possible without cutting anything. Replaced a few sections of 2.25" pipe that had been used in some bends with 2.5" to match the rest of the exhaust. Probably added 50 odd HP there alone. Painted the headers and rest of the pipes with high temp paint Cleaned out the fuel tank and repainted Painted the whole body car inside and outside with 2 coats of epoxy primer. The plan is to do body work over the top of this epoxy primer This was my first time using a paint gun. There were some runs and overspray so I'm getting the full beginner experience. My plan is to now reassemble the car after cleaning up the parts and priming them while off the body. It feels like a real milestone getting paint on it. I was getting sick and tired of seeing surface rust slowly build up on the bare metal or any new patch panels I'd welded on. Anyway, time to start on the rear bumper, then the boot lid, then, then, then, etc

Whats the pump? I thought you would have ruled it out but what sprang to mind What ecu are you running? Any wiring changes between cars? or sensor changes? Not something silly like a sensor not plugged in easy to check if its an aftermarket ecu or wired backward? On the fake evo I had because I was running an RVR engine the TPS was wired backwards compared to the evo wiring so ecu thought throttle was closed at WOT and open at idle etc

Back to the shell and a few minor bits need welding up, this patch was created and installed. Also I got 2 x heater channels so the problem areas floors pillars and channels will be fresh steel. Here's my handy work this lil patch was about 1.5 to 2 hours worth.

Similar to @shrike suggestion my old evo had an idle voltage supply for the fuel pump presumably to reduce noise, and then a second relay when the engine was on a bit of boost. I fed it the full beans all the time by jumpering the relay that switched over to the full boost mode. Much easier to deal with when reflashing the ecu. Perhaps nissan has something similar? edit: As you were fine sir, must have been posting at the same time. Double edit: ecu is seeing less air when on boost than actually exists. So if its on a map sensor then start there.

initially i had the pump hotwired to 12v because the alarm was being a dick. it did not like that one bit. the vac reference for the pressure reg is coming off the factory vac port and I've tried two different fuel pressure regs, ive also confirmed that the gauge is reading fairly close to right. fuel line is the same between both cars. pumps are different. pump in my car is a high flow unit of some sort. however flow does not equal pressure so i cant see how different pumps delivering the same pressure at the rail would make any difference.

I could just leave it reading whatever it's at. No one will care on a classic. But normally on older speedo heads the number rollers can be clicked around to suit by using the rubber on the end of a pencil (remember those? ) More modern ones are shrouded in plastic leaving no room to get the rubber in. And we can ignore digital odos because they are the devils work and don't belong on classics Obviously from now on according to carjam etc my cars odo figures will increase faster because reading in kms instead of miles. I don't care. But I do keep a little book of records for economy and recording when things get swapped/oil changes/brake pads and other associated records that Barrys like to keep a note of so it'll be nice to set the new odo to match that.

Maybe with the ride height being so high it’s affecting the float level in the carbs?

When I had my R32, I rewired the fuel pump to have full power all the time. Also what kind of fuel pressure setup are you running? Possible too much base fuel pressure and its not adding more pressure on boost? Ie dodgy vac/boost reference. Any differences in fuel line sizing between cars?

New HEL oil filter adapter with thermostat showed up. Nice bit of kit. Luckily, it just clears everything, and with some luck I'll find some fittings that clear everything. Will also upgrade from -10 to -12 hose as fittings on both ends will allow it, and it will help reduce some backpressure in the system. Filter doesn't sit as low as I was afraid of, so looks like a great solution to the annoying oil leaks I've had. Only complication is I need to find a fitting/port for gauge oil pressure sender. Little job I've had on the list for a while - replacing the water pump. The other one was OK, but was a little stiff and had some corrosion on the bearings. So rather than wait for this to fail a year or so down the track, I chucked a fresh one in there. Super easy job on this engine! Making good progress, ticking off the last of the sheetmetal jobs in prep for powdercoating.

Probably spam, but, my brother's RB26'd S15 was insanely sensitive to spark plug gap.

I still can't get this thing to run right. I'm fucking pissed off with it tbh. Is the same motor and ecu that I drove into my shed with no issue in a different car and now it won't run for shit. It's got too much fuel at idle and goes lean at throttle input. Is like the fuel controller is backwards. I haven't checked the pump voltage yet because I decided to do something to actually make progress. So I went back to being an upholstery expert. A very shit one. Whatever, so i pulled the front seats apart to see if I could swap the cushions and covers left to right. Seat base i was able to swap but the seat backs are too different left to right to make it work. I washed the seats too and got a mountain of disgusting shit out of the fabric, then I put them back together. They still look terrible. Maybe I'll die them to try and hide some of the sun fading.

Mean! Be keen for some pics. Was a cool we thing but I bet that green paint was hiding some horrors.

Ducati 916 and 848 are also 94mm and a road bike so tend to do a few kms, I know of at least one 848 thats done 100000km without a rebuild New pistons seem expensive though, 2nd hand might be better pricing

Whoa, instruments look awesome! Nice work as always.

Usual classy work on the instruments. Came out nicely. Not sure I’ve fully understood the technology of the replacement speedo. Obviously I do understand the speed calibration part but how have you gone about calibrating the odo?

If the motor lasts longer than an oil change, its a success at this point Haha but yes, definitely building for a good time not a long time. Although bikes generally do have a really nice short stroke length, often their rod ratios can be quite low because they're also trying to make the motor as physically compact as possible. Like I was surprised to see that a lot of the high rpm bikes have a rod ratio of say 1.6 or 1.8 or something. But it's just to keep the motor smaller and lighter I'm guessing.

Thanks @cletus good information to have. You're definitely right. Before I go any further I'll look into blings suggestion.

Wow, fixing this trailer up atm, and this popped up in a random search for something else, buzzy

As many on here will know Tasman district has had fair amount of rainy weather recently. Last weekend we had a big atmospheric river and got 320mm over 36 hours. Lots of local flooding and quite a few unlucky souls have lost quite a lot. For us it was just some of our driveway getting washed downhill and a few trees coming down so mustn't grumble. Anyway - it was a good excuse to stay indoors, crank the fireplace, music, espresso machine and tinker with the Imp. Ages ago I had picked up these Mitsubishi V6 pajaro instruments from the wreckers.. In previous posts I had stripped them down, chopped off all the excess bits not needed (trip meter etc) so they'd fit into some housings I machined out of thick walled alloy tube. I had found a Toyota speed sensor that I adapted to fit my Subaru transmission. Wired them up and checked it worked, which it did well but it was reading a good 10 ~ 15kph out. I then packed the lot away in a box and stashed it away. It was time to crack on and make something of them. First job was to work out an accurate speedo face to suit the setup. I cut a circle of paper, fit it in place and we went driving. Using a GPS speedo we marked out all the various speed points. Then I used a program online... https://www.blocklayer.com/gauge-templates ..however it didn't create what I wanted as most speedos have non linear markings, especially 0-20. I chatted to the fella who was running the website and he added some custom bins into the program to suit and it worked great. We printed off a new face that matched the hand drawn one and went for a drive to check it was good.. Then I spent some time having fun creating some gauge faces. I had a particular style in mind. My current design turned out pretty boring given how far one could go with the variety of fonts, colours, images, text but I wanted a 60s/70s look to suit the car and dash layout I have in mind. Fun thing is I can change it easily now I have a saved accurate template * Used the big printer we have that barely gets used. Cut them out to suit. Machined up some tiny wad punches to do the holes. Into the housings. The backside. Later on I'll need to add some led lights to shine through the white font.I'll also re-set the odometer to match the current reading even though it'll be in km from now on. The needles will then go back in place once I have finished all this. I removed the original Imp dash pads and instrument cluster. Its a heavy bit of kit. Comical wiring layout too. Sat in the car and eyed up how I'd like the gauges to sit. The idea is to build a pod that will work with the original MK1 Imp dash pads which I really do like the style of. I had part sheet of 1.2mm alloy which I cut, bent, rolled, twisted and tweaked to shape, welding all the bits together doing my very best to try not to create holes. Not the easiest thickness alloy to tig weld but managed ok. I also welded up a bolt on pod that sits below to take the original Imp indicator stalks. Checked it was ok. Covered the outside in medium density foam.. Bought some more cow that local canvas place still had a stash of.. Very carefully cut and glued it in place. Painted the other alloy parts in etch primer then satin black. Added some tiny warning lamps. Most important gauge, the oil pressure gauge, resides in the middle.. Really happy with the finish. There's a couple of blemishes (tiny knife nick) but overall considering the awkwardness of this build I'm stoked. And bolted in place. I can adjust the angles of the gauges quite easily too but its currently good for both of us. Ties in really nicely with the dash pads.. Next job is to sort out the wiring. I'd already made it far more user friendly compared to stock by having added several multi plugs. I'm going to re-do it though and use some smaller wire where I can along with Deutsch plugs. There will be a new dash face below the dash pads that will house 3 gauges, some rocker switches and a Triumph eyeball vent at each end. * Edit - here's an example..

yah cool you have done the math as expected. just wonder if you have mathed longevity or factors to that where as bike motors are not ( so much ). i spose you're not worried for what you are building. not like it's a daily.

yes and there are also reason why they are a complete piston change with the top end and valves after like, 100 hrs. but yes single piston doing alll the work opposed to 6, may not be so bad.

Ayeeeeeeeeeeee

cropped out that 9.6 afr dip aye. probs enough fuel there for the rest of the run