zep Posted March 22, 2021 Author Share Posted March 22, 2021 10 minutes ago, westy said: Not much to add ‘cept I reckon a Watts linkage is far betterer than a panhard rod. And if ya going to the trouble of 4 linking ya might as well add a Watts. Yeah, I thought about it. Will look into that a bit more. Otherwise thanks everyone, I'm more confused about what to do now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Go triangulated 4 link and do away with the Panhard 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 29 minutes ago, Yowzer said: Go triangulated 4 link and do away with the Panhard One of the suspension books I read described triangulated 4 links as doing 2 jobs and neither of them well lol. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Hey now, nothing wrong with a Starlet's factory setup. Apart from it being the cheapest option for mass manufacturing and actually not really that good. At least the wheels don't piss off to the side when you slam it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Panhard bar works fine in a car with minimal travel if it's set up correctly Watts link is obviously technically better, but adds complexity 5 minutes ago, ajg193 said: when you slam it You what now? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Well sometimes you have to haul about 300 kg of people in the back seat. Had 6 adults in it one night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 13 hours ago, ajg193 said: Hey now, nothing wrong with a Starlet's factory setup. The brilliance of triangulated 4 links is also present in the magnificent fox mustang chassis. So it must be the best of the best. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 1 hour ago, anglia4 said: The brilliance of triangulated 4 links is also present in the magnificent fox mustang chassis. it is the best of the best. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 getting quite off topic now, but anglia4 opened the wormcan generally for the fox you lower the car ~50mm and fit something like this which moves the arms up and forward also note how ridiculously short they are - good for 7's on "stock suspension" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 Way off topic bro, this is not a v8, or a drag car, and it's GM man. Shieeet! I reckon I'm just going to go directly above and below the axle centre. The largest spread I can do at the diff without fouling on things. Then try get the IC around the flywheel on the anti-squat line with the arms as parallel as possible, potentially moving the upper chassis side down 2mm for every 1mm the lower arm goes up. If I keep enough holes either side, I should have enough room to tune it. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 6, 2023 Share Posted October 6, 2023 thoughts on these numbers? I was looking at the ute this morning for about 10 mins. turns out that the shorter 4 link bars are a perfect length to utilise the factory leaf spring forward mount point with the diff mount set vertically(plumb). so I took some further measurements and allowed for some more low for ride height. used the longer arms for the uppers to get an idea of what could happen.. jotted down some numbers and bashed it into the calculator. Now im not sure if ive measured everything correctly or even entered them into the right place on the calculator. I do know that where I had originally measured for the forward upper points, it made the IC about 1200 in front of diff centre. So I just adjusted the forward height to get it out more to the front bumper area. Is that right? All the info I find online is for offroad use, so nowhere near where this will be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 6, 2023 Share Posted October 6, 2023 This is the same chassis but Merica spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted October 7, 2023 Share Posted October 7, 2023 I did find this when looking at triangulated 4 link design. Most of what you find on the net is for off road like you say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 8, 2023 Share Posted October 8, 2023 One thing to keep in mind While all these things are good, on an average street car, it can be pretty far off 'ideal' and still function acceptably for 95% of the driving you will do. If you look at angles on standard vehicles you will see what I mean. Lifted 4wds of all flavours are a good example of everything being completely wrong but they still drive acceptably I'd get it close as you can for what works and not get too hung up on it being perfect. The only thing I'd pay attention to, is the angles of the top arms so it locates the axle in both directions properly 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 8, 2023 Share Posted October 8, 2023 Cheers Clint, im only going for a cruising ride height, no racing , no dragging it’s arse off or sick skids. but dropping it when parked. aslong as the bushes aren’t stressed and no binding I’d be happy ae Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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