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VGs Tiny Squirty Thing - The Chode


Vintage Grumble
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11 minutes ago, johnnyfive said:

Yeah I've got an ancient pair of colour tune plugs. Feel free to pop em in, I'd expect questionable results though. 

If you could get wideband working I'm sure that would be preferable

Oh true. Dave's got 3x sensors, 2x of which have a timing out issue (from when he was tuning that plane) but still read 100% accurate, so hes happy to slap them on anything and see what happens. At least that will show me if it is a lean out issue, and I can go from there, as having to drive to a body of water to try shit out is a bit of a P in the A.    

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I took this out today, with mixed results. Firstly it didn't want to start, then when it did it would only just run with the throttle near on wide open. The wide band was saying turbo rich, which is understandable as it wasn't combusting well. I then changed out the paper filter for a sintered bronze one, but that made no difference. I then changed the angle of the carb (you have to turn it round to drop the bowl) and cleaned out the bowl, and checked the float needle was working, all seemed OK. After putting it back together it started way easier and ran really well. The wide band indicated the tune was pretty much spot on. It ran well for a while, but then started a sharp intermittent miss/loss of power, like it was running out of gas. (this was a very different loss of power to what was happening last time) I put more gas in it, and it ran well for a while again, but then again started the on/off loss of power, like it was running out of gas again. It was also going suddenly lean when it was doing this, as you would expect from lack or gas. It had heaps of gas in it, so it has to be a delivery issue, either somehow in the tank, or possibly the float needle being a dick. 

tl;dr, its not running lean, until it is, because its not getting fuel. 

Current plan is to try a tote tank next time, and see if that helps. If it doesn't, then it has to be the carb. 

Pic4fred: 3 1/2 men trying to hold 26 wet horses back,

3nzQRFE.jpg

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On 22/11/2020 at 21:33, Vintage Grumble said:

I'm nearly 100% sure it's not the crank seals, as the tune was spot on when it ran properly. Seals either seal or they don't, and this problem is way to on and off and abrupt to be caused by them really. 

the crank seal on my ds80 once fell out and was wobling around on the crank shaft. for ages i coudnt find the issue, also though carb issues. it was super on / off for for running mint or running like shit. i even back flipped the bike down my drive trying to get it running, holding it wide open in first and suddenly it was back to running mint.

turns out the seal was sort of bouncing in and out of the case enough to seal 

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On 23/11/2020 at 21:42, BlownCorona said:

the crank seal on my ds80 once fell out and was wobling around on the crank shaft. for ages i coudnt find the issue, also though carb issues. it was super on / off for for running mint or running like shit. i even back flipped the bike down my drive trying to get it running, holding it wide open in first and suddenly it was back to running mint.

turns out the seal was sort of bouncing in and out of the case enough to seal 

Well I'll be, so a seal can seal intermittently, ha. 

So, instead of fixing the running issue, I fixed the being able to get it in and out of reverse issue. The last Barry made a lever, but put it in a cunt of a position, and it's quite hard to yank on. The other day I couldn't get it out of reverse and near on backed up a beach. So I recycled his lever, and made it prettier and more accessible. I also made up a new mounting board, I just need a few more screws to finish it off. 

Before: (can't even see the lever it's so far forward) 

Sev8mvm.jpg

After:

93F8U4O.jpg

In regards to the running issue, as mentioned earlier, ima try running on a tote tank, and see what happens, but after lots of thinking, I am now nearly 100% sure it's a sticky float that's causing my issues. 

Regards, VG. 

XOXOX

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So, when I cleaned the carb out a while back, I noticed the float needle had a groove in it, which didn't seem right, so I checked the other carb, and that too had the groove, so rather than deciding they were both fucked, I decided that was some weird design feature, as the groove was so perfect and right angled it looked machined. 

Anyways, I was looking for a carb rebuild kit, but according to the company that made the carb (Bing) the particular version of a type 53 carb I have don't exist. The closest one I can find came on old BMW air cooled motors, so you have to buy two kits, as they have two carbs. Also the kits (and carbs) are fucking expensive. I can actually buy a new genuine mikuni for half the cost of a rebuild kit, so I may go that way. 

I also found, while looking for kits, that these carbs often fuck the float needle and seat, that's when I knew for sure the grooves in mine weren't meant to be there. 

BUT, I hit up a customer/mate who has an old BMW bike, and he happened to have a pair of type 53's he wasn't using, so gave them to me. I popped them open, and the float needles look sweet, so hopefully they fit in my carb for testing. 

TL;DR, I'm mildly retarded, but sticky float is very likely my problem. 

Bimmer carbs, 

H8rAJDl.jpg

Healthier needles, (are these even called needles?) 

zpFMEB2.jpg

Regards, VG. 

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