holdenman

FiTech EFI

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I am seriously thinking of trying one of the options but may need a milder camshaft ?

Has anyone had experience with these?

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I've driven a couple of cars with them fitted and they always seem to drive like a carb with the choke stuck on 

I also enquired with the local holley distributor about purchasing a holley version of the same thing and his response was something along the lines of "no, I wont sell those things, they are a fuckup, why would you want to put the ecu on the hottest most vibration affected area of the car?" 

Makes sense haha 

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3 minutes ago, cletus said:

I've driven a couple of cars with them fitted and they always drive like a carb with the choke stuck on 

I also enquired with the local holley distributor about purchasingba holley version of the same thing and his response was something along the lines of "no, I wont sell those things, they are a fuckup, why would you want to put the ecu on the hottest most vibration affected area of the car?" 

Makes sense haha 

Yea good point and when it is to go on a non cross-flow 6 ... maybe the Webers just swung back into the lead

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Also if you're not going to tune it yourself, then speak with a tuner you like and see what their preference is. 

Otherwise you'll be paying for someone to learn a new system / they might just flat out not want to do it. 

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To be fair a CPU can get damn hot at times and I would imagine fuel boiling would happen before or about the same time as a CPU cooked itself and the CPU itself isn't actually doing much running EFI and Spark compared to say a laptop PC or even a phone. Vibration should not effect a solid state circuit. Just saying

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Some  diesel trucks run the diesel thru chambers in the ecu before it goes to the injectors to keep the ecu cool ... and it’s bolted to the side of the block - not without a problems sometimes but it’s a thing 

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1 hour ago, Transom said:

Some  diesel trucks run the diesel thru chambers in the ecu before it goes to the injectors to keep the ecu cool ... and it’s bolted to the side of the block - not without a problems sometimes but it’s a thing 

Thats pretty cool, I did read in the FiTech jabber which sort of contradicted itself somewhat, the Fuel commander reduces the need for a return fuel line and that it keeps the fuel cooler while mounted in the engine bay!  My 3S-GE powered Starlet doesn't have a return line but my old LC (VK system) used a return line which brings in cooler fuel. 

The Problem I see though is running an inline 6 with the induction and exhaust on the same side one above the other must increase the chance of heat induction although I have always used heat deflection material like reflectors from industrial lights.

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On 15/10/2020 at 09:06, Mark_Fleming said:

Cletus, are you talking about the sniper? I had a very similar conversation with a local agent as well....

Yep. C&M? 

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They are getting a huge following over the states. I cant figure it out. Maybe it does sound like a good plan of you arent mechanically minded cos lets face it sometimes it is easy to flood or not start a poorly tuned carb. 

I supoose thats why edlebrock also sell so many shit crabs too.

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have fitted the fitech and holley sniper on v8 cars at work with great success. make good power and run much better.

but you have to ask yourself weather its worth the cost to you or not.

as you need fuel pump/lines and fittings/oxygen sensor fitted/wiring.

so ends up being more than you think.

if the car isnt used much a well tuned carb on a NA v8 is fine. 

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My 10 cents worth if I may.

My brother runs the well-known (in Tarmac Rallying) Cheetah race car and yes there are a few decades of sibling rivalry between our two teams – you’ve got to keep these bloody older bro’s in their place!

His current motor of choice is a 420 cubes plus Dart “small block” running AFR Heads with the best internals he can source.  It’s cam’d to be a torque monster with the standard joke being that despite having a 6 speed Richmond behind it you only needs 2 gears for most Targa stages,  it’s just simply buckets of useable power everywhere. Up until 18 months ago it was running a Barry Grant Demon Carb on a single plane manifold - multiple dyno results were great but it struggled with cold/hot starting, public road touring stages, plug fouling when not used in anger and the most unbelievably horrendous fuel consumption in both special and touring stages.

18 months ago in desperation we tried an 800HP FiTech system and the results just blew us away.  When we arrived at our favorite dyno we were advised that the system was still tuning itself and we should “go forth and use it in anger”. After some rather spirited play time on highway 16 we arrived back (with licenses barely intact) and ran the beast up. The figures spoke for themselves, no loss in peak HP and a huge improvement in linear torque throughout the rpm range – it had started pulling like a choir boy from 2500 rpm!

Obviously the one thing we can’t quantify with fact and figures is the ‘drivability’ of the setup but the consensus of opinion is that hot /cold starts are instantaneous,  it never stalls  when maneuvering at idle despite having P/S and almost no flywheel, throttle response is as good as it gets, the plugs look great and the list goes on. We also found a good 30% was knocked off the fuel bill when competing in Targa.

I have to say I was a little dubious re having the ECU mounted on top of the motor (i.e. heat & vibration) but after 18 months of competitive motorsport it’s been nothing short of 100% reliable. In hindsight I run a 350 MPI EFI V8 Mercruiser in a 28 foot power boat with the ECU and all  relays mounted (as per factory) on the inlet manifold – I need to move with the times!

There is probably a reason why street versions of this type of aftermarket single point injection systems have taken the classic car industry by storm worldwide.

Rant over, thanks for reading.

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Our tractor, from 2008 has the ECU mounted right on top of the turbo and hasn't given any problems apart from bird nests catching on fire.

A lot of modern cars have the ECU in the engine bay too.

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48 minutes ago, cletus said:

I think the key thing for americans is that it is easy and bolts on where a carb went, and tunes itself. And they are getting cheaper 

 

If they had to do things like run wiring through a hole in the firewall to plug in to an ECU it would only run for a week before the wires rub through on the jagged edge of the hole they made using an AR15  because it's their goddamn right to bear arms and they ain't using a drill, it's made in china 

LOL, you may have a good point there! Luckily with the recent gun buyback by our glorious leader there are no irresponsible AR15 owners in NZ and all firewall penetration's are drilled to the correct diameter and fitted with the appropriate grommet!  :compress:

On a more serious note  I have to admit that after 20 odd years of running Autronic ECU's in our competition cars the majority of failures have been from wiring issues i.e. vibration, heat, rubbing, chaffing etc.

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I am very interested in this. My firebird has an Edelbrock 600 CFM carby which has been OK, it has a flat spot that I never could get rid of and when the car sits for more than a week is takes for ever to get fuel up before it starts. 

The Fitech, smallest one with timing control, looks like a good option. At the same time replacing the cast iron intake with an aluminum one to get rid of the adapter and lose some weight. 

The other option that I was considering is the Edelbrock Pro Flow multipoint system. This has the intake, dissy and separate computer as part of the package. It is more expensive but by the time all the other bits are considered not massively so.

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This is the one I am thinking of trying as it meets future needs for when I turbo my engine. As for price and if it's worth it, hell yeah. My new triple 45 DCOE setup cost more than the Fitech but I do love the sound of them over my current 750 Holley.

https://www.staparts.co.nz/View-A-Product/id/27921/Productid/Universal FiTech Go EFI 4 600hp power adder kit black finish 

 

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21 minutes ago, kyteler said:

Why would you remove triples???

To see the difference and get it ready for my other turbo engine, My current engine is a bit of a test mule that I have run various things on it. I have a couple more engines including a low compression black motor that I plan doing an old school turbo set up using a decompression plate and no ecu.

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