Stu Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 Does it do jumps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Is it auto or Manuel Escobar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Started life as a 6 spd manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 All 6 manual glass gears intact, although says no if you nang it in 1st then try go to 2nd at high rpm. Chucked wideband on it. lean as when cold, up in the 15's then gets leaner and starts to missfire. so maybe coolant sensor bung. or it doesn't like the new o2 sensor old mate put in it. when warm 14.3afr at cruise 12.2 full throttle. will see what it does after fix cold running issue. but can possibly do some janky mods, to lean it out a touch for that fuel economy 4 hours ago, Stu said: Does it do jumps probably. already been mocked by 6 year old nephew. "whys the back jacked up so much" so just need those @ajg193 springs for the front 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Probably coolant sensor. It probably wouldn't apply O2 correction at anything other than cruise conditions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 yeh. i only said o2 because half the internet recon o2 sensor fixed problem. I would have thought it would be ignored when cold anyway, to give it heat up time. seems to be common issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Running with no O2 sensor plugged in will probably just make it run a tad rich so could be worth a try to rule out O2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudley Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 6 hours ago, Stu said: Does it do jumps Well theres only one way to find out mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Often I could cold running issues are coolant temp sensor related. I'd bung one in to test. Easy enough to change. Are 16v sensors the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 think they have different plug, the early 16v definitely does. Will just test it with multi meter, easy to do. just dont have meter right now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted June 14, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 14, 2020 because no one ever comes back and says what the problem is.. Well i still dont know the actual cause but, made it work. coolant sensor. reads right, at ecu and sensor end. swapped another in just to be 100% sure - same shit. late 16v is same sensor done o2 sensor check. is fine iat reads fine tps set per manual. tried a 2nd one just because have that shit hanging around, no change swapped out injectors, no change some stuff i found about how ecu works along the way. other that being shit because i cant tune it; tps- ecu doesn't seem to care if its not set right. seems to zero itself on start up. the fuel ratio goes all up the shit if adjust when engine running. blacktop doesn't use the throttle closed switch in tps. ecu seems to have a rich tune in it for light throttle and trims it back with the o2 sensor. hence why they use all the fuel if have a dead o2 So my janky repair. I unplugged the o2 sensor hoping it would run in some kinda open loop. high 14's light throttle. up to high 15's with some more throttle. and 12 something at wide open. plug back in and it fixes the afr after a short time driving, it actually changes it quite fast. ends up 14.3 -14.5 most places other than full throttle. So the only reason it seemed fine once warm and shit when cold, was the o2 sensor was doing its thing. and is likely ignored till a certain temp. for now I've put a 10k resistor in series with the iat sensor, so it thinks its running about neg 10deg air temps. so more more fuel everywhere. with o2 unplugged its rich at light throttle. good through mid throttle, little rich at wide open, but wouldn't be surprised if thats normal plug back in o2 sensor it sorts its shit out and ends up 14.2-14.3 and little rich at full throttle good enough I put the resistor in the iat rather than coolant sensor, as the coolant sensor does other stuff other than just fuel trim. maybe it just has low fuel pressure. and probably needs a new filter. but seems strange it runs good at full throttle. maybe my port work is amazing and it just needed the extra fuel. probably not... will see once can get it on dyno i guess. 17 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 5, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 5, 2021 Boring up date on this turd Got the shits with stock ecu being a turd, and installed a g4x atom. wired it in to stock loom leaving the stock plugs in place as well. so could plug stock ecu back in. went something like this: had it running with basic tune in a day. then a while to get the alpha n tune and cold start, a/c idle up's with the stock isc to work nice. tbh i got lazy and never finished it properly and only has a road tune on it that spend an hour or 2 on. still, drives way better than stock ecu an uses quite a bit less gas. somewhere along the line i got sick of my 6 year old nephew mocking me about the jacked rear ride height. turns out someone had put cobra springs in the rear for some reason which sat higher than stock. so threw in some rsr low springs, not superlows so can still rally spec it. drove it for some time and was bit smokey. which i assumed was the exhaust valve stem seals. because again was too lazy to do them. only did intake. made some tools to do it in place and yeh that didn't fix it. drove it for about 6000k's before getting over the smoke and using all the oil. come to the conclusion it was something to do with the rings or pistons. was super unkeen to pull the whole engine and box out again. so pulled the head and sump off, which actually wasn't that much fun either, but better than the whole engine out. looking at this pic reminds me that the stock radiator top tank was weeping. so put in a cheap replacement, which actually looks super legit for the price. anyway. pulled pistons out. everything looked fine there, they looked better than the other 2nd hand ones i brought just in case, with about 20mm of carbon on top of them for about 18:1 compression. rings.. not so much. when i did the rebuild toyota rings with 3 week wait, and the 2nd option was out of stock also. so brought some acl/hastings rings. which were the most expensive also ?! they were pretty questionable, the gaps in the rings went square. by the time made them square the ring gaps were a bit over spec. but went with it because needed to get it running not piston out of engine, just there so could get camera to focus. this 2nd ring has 6000k's on it. can see the shiny bit is the only part been touching the bore. some places hasn't really been touching at all. so yeh either bore really oval or rings suck. im going with latter. engine running bit rich to start with on stock ecu probably didn't help the cause. but would not use these rings again So gave the block a dingleberry hone and wacked some japanese npr rings in it, which look to be identical to the toyota rings. were also cheapest. they were all bang on out of the box ring gap wise. so didn't need to even gap them. done probably 1500k's on it so far and got the seal of approval from my friend rangi re smoke. Think its still using a little oil but what 20v doesnt.. since i have to pay for my own gas for the first time in forever. stock ecu was doing about 9.5?L per 100k. with link 8.0. with new rings seems to be 7.8 ish. probably do better if i actually finish the tune. 27 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted August 21, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 21, 2021 So I dyno'd this junk and it made 102kw. Sometime later i did a couple of tunes on fwd blacktop's. one had pon cams, one had some big kelfords. both made 108/109kw. with a big hit in the midrange. and midrange numbers already seemed disappointing stock, compared to my 16v stuff. So decided to do a little r&d on mine this worked but vibrated like shit so made this and these With the peashooter exhaust and factory airbox still, it made 108kw. with a stack more midrange than the cam'd engines red is before any changes with the airbox removed and exhaust dropped off after the new pipe. it made 112kw and picked up the bottom end more So yeh trying to convince one of the guys with the bigger cams to try the parts see if will pick up the midrange they lost video version: 16 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 Haven't watched the video yet, but are the red bulbs anti-reversion chambers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted August 22, 2021 Author Share Posted August 22, 2021 Its a glass pack muffler. well a fire extinguisher actually.. In an attempt to let the front part of the exhaust do its wizardry. have had good results doing it in the past, but ideally it would be longer. Have been trying to see how small can go on exhaust, but the more stuff i try, the less likely there looks to be a substitute for the 3" 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 3” exhausts are science. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 Oh and watched the video must be pretty sweet with 112kw. Always liked the way a blacktop drives through the gears, even if they are smelly 20v. I guess some kinda cold air box/pod filter shit and 3” video are on the cards when you get that far? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted August 23, 2021 Author Share Posted August 23, 2021 Not sure if will ever do bigger exhaust, because old man quiet daily driver. but it would be nice to grab those gains down a 4000rpm. I may modify the stock airbox to try gain back some of the losses with it on. just need to find one to butcher. bigger feed pipe and modify the entry to a big oval shape cone. so it feeds the bottom of the box and effectively makes it bigger at the same time 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted October 2, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 2, 2021 made another front pipe. up to v3.1 now. green line is stock blue is with the trumpets and v3.1 pipe. rest factory, factory exhaust and airbox/ intake etc. still nana spec quiet pretty good for changing a couple of bits of pipe, but fairly complex pieces of pipe! Its still running the pvc trumpet ends. so maybe a few more kw in it with better belmouths and modified airbox cover red line is with the exhaust dropped off after the v3.1 pipe. which should be easy enough to replicate with big exhaust. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 That's a pretty impressive gain ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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