Yowzer Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Since you're running NA you probably won't be needing the squirts unless you plan on a bit of track thrashing / sustained b-owts. I'm pretty sure their purpose is piston cooling rather than lubrication. Did you have a spare turd crank at all? I wouldn't mind stroking my shitter out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Cheers for your thoughts. Funny story about the cranks I had. Basically I had two, one looked a bit worse for wear and one was excellent except number 4 main was a tiny bit scratched looking. So I set the better looking one up in the lathe to machine the nose to take the smaller drive pulley for the 5M and that's when I discovered the crank was bent. Which was what caused the engine to grenade in the first place. And that's why I ended up with all the broken 7M junk. So the "bad" looking crank was perfect and that's the one I used. And whoever built the 7m before me never checked the crank for runout. And I bet it would have been super tight to turn as well. Should have been spotted before building a whole engine but I guess not. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Pretty impressive to bend a crank, surely the head would have ejected out the bonnet before that. I had two 7Ms once and basically gave them away, now they're a little harder to find. I wonder how good an AliExpress crank would be.. What's your thinking behind removing the squirts? Running thin oil and wanna ensure you retain pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Na, I just wanted some other perspectives in case there as something in missing. Is not a turbo engine bit it should rev. And the pump should handle it fine, it's how it was from factory. I'm kind of leaning towards running them just because they're there and they'll more than likely work to fling a bit more oil at the gudgeon. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Oh and just to be clear the pistons should make it about 13 to 1 CR so it'll make a bit more heat at the top end. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Man that's some good comp. Gonna follow @kpr and add some VVT to it too? Man I'm keen to hear what a high revving 6M sounds like 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 My opinion’s probably not worth diddly squat but I’d be keeping them. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Everyone's opinions are worthy my man. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 2 hours ago, sheepers said: Oh and just to be clear the pistons should make it about 13 to 1 CR so it'll make a bit more heat at the top end. 13:1 is pretty high for static I guess you already know you'll be on high octane fuel I think it would be worthwhile to keep the squirter to keep things cool . Will help prevent detonation having another cooling system Have you worked out what the dynamic compression is with your cams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 It'll be sweet, just gonna fucking send it. 6 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 I'd roll them on basis they're there, maybe if they werent you'd be pondering tapping some in but I don't see a downside 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 It's an M series, I vote keep them as it needs all the help it can get. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted November 14, 2023 Share Posted November 14, 2023 @sheepers did you have to clearance the block at all to fit the 7m crank in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 14, 2023 Share Posted November 14, 2023 na, its a 7m block. i had to machine the nose of the 7m crank to get the 5m cam drive to work but the bottom end is all 7m. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted November 14, 2023 Share Posted November 14, 2023 2 hours ago, sheepers said: na, its a 7m block. i had to machine the nose of the 7m crank to get the 5m cam drive to work but the bottom end is all 7m. Oh that's right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 Love the battery operated boring bar there. Have just been going through those cam/crank sensor questions myself. @vk327 informed me yes to run full sequential ignition and injection you will need a cam angle sensor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 If you want to fine tune individual cylinder trims and shit and get 10/10ths out of a turd then yeah go nuts with full sequential, otherwise just run a crank sensor hidden somewhere on the flywheel and run wasted spark and batch fire. You might be able to tune a better idle and start up with full sequential which may make a difference with the big cams and compression since you can blast all the fuel in on a single pulse, but I dunno how big a difference it'll really make. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 So, thinking about it I can do cam angle really easily. There is a hole in the side of the block and just inside that hole is a shaft that spins exactly half the speed of the crank for some reason. I can attach some sort of "trigger" to that shaft and a pick up of some sort to "see" that "trigger". The crank however might be a bit more difficult. And it goes without saying that i want to hide it so its not obvious 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 It's almost like a dizzy once ran off that shaft / The same thought crossed my mind A lot of modern engines run the crank sensor off a tone wheel on the flywheel, perhaps you could attach something or machine some slots into the back of that and hide the sensor under the manifold? Or cut a tooth off the ring gear I was gonna cut a tone wheel into the front pulley and mount the sensor off the lower timing cover, but I wasn't fussed about hiding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 There's the tonewheel on a modern dual mass thing, the sensor bolts to the bellhousing behind the cylinder head. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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