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Not a problem. It's been super cool to learn from some one with so much knowledge. 

 

I asked him if he had any idea on how many engines he has built. His response was, "some weeks I would build two a day back in the old days, spend all weekend cleaning the casings and parts and then just build engines all week."

 

Guy sure as hell knows what's up. 

 

Hopefully get some more stuff done tomorrow night once the fly wheel is back. 

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cheers team. i was sick of looking at a fisher and paykel appliance.

 71873998_1166346463754019_18830420820885

i had originally wanted a different style graphic but just didn't work out and i kept coming back to find this bus. 

72179334_517764012345336_379692535796203

very happy to see it done. i just need to get back to the shop and finish lowering it.

 

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its such good set up.

i keep seeing bug turbo set ups and haven't really found any bay window kombi ones.

that one is a 1915cc and has 138bhp.

also 1st one ive seen with a smaller t3 size turbo on them.

everyone else seems to have huge turbos.

and also pretty much every other one is in a bug.
 

 

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  • 7 months later...
59 minutes ago, Roman said:

That's a beefy looking kit for the suspension!

What does it do, just allow everything to be lower? 

 

so the rear plates allow it to go lower, from factory they are straight

$_20.JPG

the notch in my ones allow drop instantly with out having to change the spline to much. 

ADJUSTABLE_SPRING_PLATES_1968-71_EARLY_B

now it also has two plates

Bay-Spring-Plates.jpg

the main one is the back one and the front one has the spline in it. you can adjust the height by screwing in the bolt getting it with in mm from side to side, or you can lower or raise it 20mm.

the other laser cut peace that looks like a horse shoe helps space out the dust cap allowing for the extra thickness in the spring plates

ill do a video and post this which might make things easier explaining 




front front beam is now 2 inchs narrower as im going to be running drop spindles, drop spindles usually space the wheels out wider so by narrowing the front beam im able to run same offset wheels and not have them stick out more than needed. (i also like the sucked in look)

a factory beam has his bulky end on them

image3_3.jpg


by cutting them off and putting a 10-12mm plate on the end you are able to bring the track in a bit.

most modified beams are done like this and if you run the likes of Porsche disc brakes they space them out wider again.

this is a 4 inch narrowed beam for a early kombi and you can see its much the same design as mine  

TMNKNB-4-500x500.jpg


picture of a bus with the wheels sucked in. this also helps with steering when the bus is super low.

IMGP1092.jpg


side note. on beetles the wheels start to hit things and its the only way it works narrowed beams

dsc_0025.jpg

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