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Worked Blacktop 4age vs 7AGE Blacktop


AALAWS

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A slightly modified blacktop does drive significantly better than a standard one including being smooth with more low down drivability. Some mild cams and a link is all you really need. Leave everything else factory and it will run mint and still get up and go. 

 

 

I can't believe I just said that. Maybe I'm getting old. 

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I think you should sell the Blacktop and install something that is already north-south orientated. An MX5 engine is the obvious choice

 

My current daily has the Mazda BP 1.8 twincam that can also be found in MX5's. It has a beasty midrange that I find a lot more enjoyable than a peaky 4age

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it's just not a modernised te27/levin/trueno without a 4age.......

 

that and I couldn't bring myself to putting a rotor/sr20 in it........

or the engine from what is commonly referred to in some circles "a gay hairdresser's car" ha ha

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I think you should sell the Blacktop and install something that is already north-south orientated. An MX5 engine is the obvious choice

 

My current daily has the Mazda BP 1.8 twincam that can also be found in MX5's. It has a beasty midrange that I find a lot more enjoyable than a peaky 4age

 

no offence - I'm sure its a great engine, just not what I want to do :)

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I think you should sell the Blacktop and install something that is already north-south orientated. An MX5 engine is the obvious choice

My current daily has the Mazda BP 1.8 twincam that can also be found in MX5's. It has a beasty midrange that I find a lot more enjoyable than a peaky 4age

What you meant to say is F20C.

Have Kelford "rally" cams in a blacktop and find myself only really needing to rev it up to 6k most of the time. No peaky-Ness which is great for road use. These are what the 20v should have come from factory with TBH

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Have you considered a 2ZZ?

 

I did a little research into that a few years back.......has it actually been some setups done for RWD?

 

 

 

2tg on sideys.............. keep it period

 

yeah nah.........want a bit more poke :)

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What you meant to say is F20C.

Have Kelford "rally" cams in a blacktop and find myself only really needing to rev it up to 6k most of the time. No peaky-Ness which is great for road use. These are what the 20v should have come from factory with TBH

 

Nice......saw that ke25 race car with the F20C, was on trade me recently for 25K......a little bit of firewall work but oh boy what a rocket.

Would have MAYBE considered a H22A red top if there were RWD applications but meh

 

Good to know about the cams.......I'll probably just do a refresh of the engine, make it look pretty, add some cams and leave it there

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I did a little research into that a few years back.......has it actually been some setups done for RWD?

 

 

 

 

yeah nah.........want a bit more poke :)

Yup I was going to do one into my carina.

Lotus 7 rep guys use a ford 5sp and sell adaptor plates.

I was going to put it up to the T50 or possibly a W series Toyota box.

Have since sold it as I have a running 4age that bolts straight in so will save on build costs.

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If I was to do a RWD build where I was swapping motors and gearboxes I'd go straight to the 2GR.

3.5L 6cyl <~~ you can't beat that.

That and because it's a V6 not straight 6 the weight is kept behind the front wheels more.

That and it's lights as hell being full alloy

300hp and 300nm on standard RELIABLE ecu, loom and un-opened motor.

2GR FTW!!

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2TG

yeah nah.........want a bit more poke :)

 

2T-G with some mild work is easy in blacktop performance zone. Stock for stock they put out the same power/torque figures as bluetops. They are really great motors, just a bit physically large & heavy for the displacement. 

 

Have some cents - If it was me I would go 2T-G and aim for a te27 replica instead of the 38th 4age powered ke25 in NZ. 

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If I was to do a RWD build where I was swapping motors and gearboxes I'd go straight to the 2GR.

3.5L 6cyl <~~ you can't beat that.

That and because it's a V6 not straight 6 the weight is kept behind the front wheels more.

That and it's lights as hell being full alloy

300hp and 300nm on standard RELIABLE ecu, loom and un-opened motor.

2GR FTW!!

define "light as hell being full alloy"

love to know the composition of the crank/flywheel/cams and rods

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Google says somewhere around 165-185kg.

That probably doesn't include ancillaries but that's pretty light!

you reckon, very similar weight to a complete, dry manual V6 Commode motor with loom and bell. sub 200kg on a pallet .

but back on topic, bored and stroked 2tg on sides for period doorts

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