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Not saying don't but I personally wouldn't bother with 7a route.

Any added benefit gained is supported by a fair amount of custom bits and pieces.

 

Different flywheel bolt pattern, timing bits not lining up, pretty much looking at an aftermarket computer and therefore tune straight away.

 

The money spent on this stuff couldn't be used to make the car awesome!

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I myself am going 7A-GE in my KE20 but that's because I all ready have one built up from someone previously so can jig everything against the other one I am building.

 

 

As someone who drools over KE25's. Looking forward to seeing this progress

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Think very carefully about dipping your car, make sure the company know what they are doing and neutralize the acid and can seal ALL the metal including what you can't see.

 

other than that, looks like you're doing this the right way, all the best for the build.

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Hey Guys, thanks for dropping by.

 

Not saying don't but I personally wouldn't bother with 7a route.

Any added benefit gained is supported by a fair amount of custom bits and pieces.

 

Different flywheel bolt pattern, timing bits not lining up, pretty much looking at an aftermarket computer and therefore tune straight away.

 

The money spent on this stuff couldn't be used to make the car awesome!

 

Hey Ben, Probably need a new ecu for a worked BT20v and a bunch of rear drive bits, which luckily are increasingly more available from what I can see........but I hear what your saying - thanks for the pov, I'm learning as I go so we'll see how it goes.

 

I myself am going 7A-GE in my KE20 but that's because I all ready have one built up from someone previously so can jig everything against the other one I am building.

 

 

As someone who drools over KE25's. Looking forward to seeing this progress

 

cool bro, i'd love to see how yours goes too.......any 7age tips and pointers you learn would be good to know!

 

Think very carefully about dipping your car, make sure the company know what they are doing and neutralize the acid and can seal ALL the metal including what you can't see.

 

other than that, looks like you're doing this the right way, all the best for the build.

 

Doug the Dipper in Rotorua is the maaaaannn. Hell yeah this car is getting done right!!!

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it'll be a mix i think. I want the te27 black interior and gauges, wide te27 flares, wing mirrors too, nice deep dish wheels.

I like the colouring of the ke25 exterior plastics (silvery/grey) and not 100% sure of how much of the chrome i'll use......

 

& i'm currently in the process of creating a set of replica SR badges which I'll use :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I too am following this build with anticipation. While I was in Japan I saw many TE27s and thought it would be awesome to own one at some stage.

On the topic of 7AGE - I have considered going this way myself and have done some research. Its not the cheapest solution as to get a decent amount of power upgrade from the build you will need cams/cam gears, new pistons, rods, crank balance, some tricky parts from MRP to stitch it together. You will also need an aftermarket ECU and tune. However from what I have seen its well worth it if you want to keep A series engine. Massive torque increase if done right (correct Cams are super important)

It would of course be far cheaper to throw a 3SGE beams in and get 200HP standard but depends what you want to achieve really.

I would however strongly suggest you consider ditching the T50 and go to J160 6 speed. Will cost you about the same dollars as buying and rebuilding a T50 but will be much stronger!

Good luck with the build.

Oh and check this if you want to see what a well built 7AGE can do

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Oh and check this if you want to see what a well built 7AGE can do

 

 

He's got a great sound and pick up with that motor.

I'm still 50/50 on which path to take the engine at the mo. My focus is to get the body done and just keep researching, chatting with peeps etc. Still need to look into whats involved etc with a worked blacktop - i'm not chasing numbers with the build and really like the 4age. T50 will bolt straight in too as I'm not too keen to modify the firewall and tunnel.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Drill a hole in the handle thing(bar with black hand grip) and stink a split pin in it, saves it from falling out and you from shitting your self the first time you roll it over.

I also welded a nut to the top of the part so I could screw a bolt in to lock it in place, to stop it tuning when working on the car.

 

023_zps64dea90b.jpg

 

yours looks ok, but mine has heaps of slop so when it turns the wheel on the ground move around as it pivots, I wish I had made my feet wider like yours also.

 

Have fun!

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Drill a hole in the handle thing(bar with black hand grip) and stink a split pin in it, saves it from falling out and you from shitting your self the first time you roll it over.

I also welded a nut to the top of the part so I could screw a bolt in to lock it in place, to stop it tuning when working on the car.

 

Good ideas mate, i'll definitely be doing that. I can imagine that nervous moment when you turned it wondering if it'll all hold and that stupid handle falls - funny, but I feel for ya :)

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I did the very same thiong a few weeks back - that first turn gives ya the sh!ts, hoping the whole thing doesnt fall over, then ping ping ping - handle

Run a bar between each stand to help stablise the stands so they dont spread when you shift it around. 

 

As for the car-  very nice, got a major soft spot for 25's, my first ever project car was one.

Keep the updates coming

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  • 2 weeks later...

Are you sure about those welds on that setup? It's hard to see properly from the photos but there's not seemingly a lot of evidence of heat in there.

I'd hate for the shell to get bent if the structure collapsed is all.

i'm not now..........enlighten me please, this is the first time I've welded.

Which ones in particular are you talking about?

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As I say, it's hard to say from the pictures but to me (and I am no welder, at all, let's just get that clear) it looks like these ones just have a bit of solder blobbed onto the metal, enough to make it stick, similar to a tack but nothing of metal gluing substance.  I've been told off on here for my welding before and it looked similar to that but mine was on panel steel that was inconsequential.

 

22124509788_abfcfaf49d_b.jpg

 

More heat though and the weld should "sink" a little (by comparison to what I see) and fuse the two pieces of metal together.  I would practice on a few pieces of scrap angle to see what settings on your welder work best for that thickness of steel then grind off any of those on your setup that look a bit odd by comparison.

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