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Alasdair's 1974 KE25 Corolla


AALAWS

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I had to chuckle a bit at "I've been told off on here"........

 

You're probably right about the welds on the angle as I did it at the same amps I did some of the box section, which I almost put a few holes in.

I kind of didn't care how it looked, and i did give it all a few hard whacks to 'test' it, but I also do not want to bend my car so i'll give it a grind and another going over on a higher amp setting

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I agree, looks like a lack of fusion. We would hate to see that shell hit thenter ground especially if someone was under it. Practice with adjusting your settings ie hotter, colder, faster wire speed, slower wire speed etc. Also your technique, faster, slower, pausing at the start of the weld to get your molten pool going. Also I tend to look at both edges of the weld and maintain my bead to consistently lap the edges of the steel.

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I agree, looks like a lack of fusion. We would hate to see that shell hit thenter ground especially if someone was under it. Practice with adjusting your settings ie hotter, colder, faster wire speed, slower wire speed etc. Also your technique, faster, slower, pausing at the start of the weld to get your molten pool going. Also I tend to look at both edges of the weld and maintain my bead to consistently lap the edges of the steel.

 

 

i'm using a stick welder with some stainless rods my dad had spare, i'll turn the amps up and do some more practice...........how can I tell when they are good welds?

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Cheers guys. I ground back pretty much every weld on the red stand and had a mixed bag......

Some welds that looked bad were actually really good with great fusion between the metals ( In my uncertainty I went over a few welds twice to be sure - unnecessarily so which made them ugly). Some welds were bad and had lots of gaps and small cracks, but the ones on the main shaft were really good which was a relief - when I ground them flat it looked like it was 95% all one piece.

 

Grinding them all back satisfied my perfectionist/ocd side so that was enjoyable - they'll look mint........and not kill me or my shell!!

 

I'll study up a bit more before I lay some fresh welds over the joins again.

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As I said it was hard to tell from the pictures but I am glad you double checked and also glad that the majority of them were fine even if you had to re-do them.

 

Yeah me too, thanks mate. I rushed a few in my excitement/impatience so I'll take more care next time too.

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  • 5 months later...

mint badges are mint.

 

where'd ya find those?

 RWD toyota page on Facebook.

The guy had got them in a bundle of parts from an old guy that used to work at toyota factory and kept them when he retired.

One of those finds we are all hoping for :)

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  • 1 month later...

I'm looking for someone in the waikato area who's good at panel work to cut out some rust and fit some new steel, knock out a few dents etc......

Any recommendations? Any skilled OS'ers  keen to help a noob out? $$ :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

when you are striping all these panels are you coating them with anything straight after they are bare metaled?

also body looks in good nick 

with that small patch of rust i would say go and get yourself a small portable sand blaster and buy some fine grade media like a glass aggregate

for all those small bits that need doing 

all it would require is a air compressor to use it.

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when you are striping all these panels are you coating them with anything straight after they are bare metaled?

also body looks in good nick 

with that small patch of rust i would say go and get yourself a small portable sand blaster and buy some fine grade media like a glass aggregate

for all those small bits that need doing 

all it would require is a air compressor to use it.

 

Yeah, I'm cleaning off the stripper with soapy water then some wax/grease remover and then coating/wiping it down with KEYPHOS.

Apparently it'll keep the metal rust free for 6-8 months, then just apply some more if need be - works a treat so far.

 

I'll look into the small blaster - thanks for the tip!

 

ps - is there something people put down over those patches before epoxy?

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Good

With stuff for patches everyone will have a different opinion on what to use etc

But I use a phosphate type coating on patches and bare metal etc

Which I think is great shit as you can wipe it off with a rag When it's dry

As it turns to a powder form

And you can weld over it also

And it's a great rust neutraliser

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I had a mate give me an old 3M wire wheel that's enclosed in fibreglass.

Swears by it - reckons he's had it for over 8 years and still going strong on all the pitted rust.

Apparently 3M stopped making it, he reckons because it worked so well they didn't make any more.....

I'll give that a go over the rust spots and get some of your stuff also.

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