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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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Bench bleeding a master cylinder, what do I need to have in the ports for it to work? Plastic plugs (not threaded just dust things) that come with the unit or will there be shitloads of pressure when pumping it. Keen to get on to this tomorrow so just seeing if I need to plug it properly or not. 

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Usual bench bleed method is to make some short pipes that screw into the outlets and go into the reservoir below the fluid level so you pump fluid around and around until you get air bubbles out of the cylinder  

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Yeah watched a youtube video where they used some kit with fittings and hose to do that. I have bugger all bits lying around to achieve that. Seemed like a good method though as could do it in car. Wonder what pick-a-fart might have. Thanks its on the potential plans list.

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Haven't started with a dry system before, was just going off what was recommended. Something about having "fun" getting the air out when not bench bled. I have a vacuum bleeder, would that negate the need to bench bleed do you think?

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25 minutes ago, Bling said:

Yeah watched a youtube video where they used some kit with fittings and hose to do that. I have bugger all bits lying around to achieve that. Seemed like a good method though as could do it in car. Wonder what pick-a-fart might have. Thanks its on the potential plans list.

Probably easiest to grab 2 pipes off a master cyl at pap,  just snip them off long enough that you can bend them up and over into the reservoir 

 

If it was me I'd try the vac bleeder first just to avoid getting brake fluid all over the place if you can

worst case you can still do the pipes into the reservoir method once it's in the car  

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Recently swapped out the master on my corolla with one that was completely dry, even with ABS it sucked fluid through fine. Same with the one on the Marina (resleeved, completely dry), but thats a single circuit system lol.

I'd try vacuum it through since you have a vac bleeder. Just hook it to the closest brake to the master and suck suck suck.

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The need is that it makes the job a hell of a lot easier when you have the fluid behind the seals to create the pressure required to pump it through. Dry seals don't seal very well and it can take a bloody long time to get going. A fresh rebuild is different because you have presumably used fluid or rubber grease during assembly and is not comparible to a cylinder that has been sitting on a shelf for six years.

There have been times I have regretted not bench bleeding a cylinder first. There have also been times they work near on straight away. I usually just dump some juice in the top and pump it till it jizzes all over the floor and that works good enough to bolt on.

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2 hours ago, Bling said:

Bench bleeding a master cylinder, what do I need to have in the ports for it to work? Plastic plugs (not threaded just dust things) that come with the unit or will there be shitloads of pressure when pumping it. Keen to get on to this tomorrow so just seeing if I need to plug it properly or not. 

I needed to bench bleed the new starlet one before it would work properly.

 

I think I just used some M10 fine pitch bolts in the outlet ports, slightly cracked loose so that the air could get past but not a huge amount of the brake fluid.

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