mtbtimr Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 Little bit of tech support required... Which twin SU carbs will fit Maggie? Do they have to be from a 1300 engine? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyWithAviators Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Makes it easier. Otherwise the float angles are wrong? I think that's it. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtbtimr Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 Any way of telling? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=886669424 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Suck it and see. For the price it'd be hard to go wrong. The stock single carb you have should be good for about 90mph depending on what diff ratio you are running. Mine used to sit on 70mph sweet as with the trailer and the only modification was a mega oversize rebore cos the bores had huge lips and the block was pretty rough after sitting outside for some time with the head off it. Still ran the stock single carb and cast manifold. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mo999 Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Those are the correct ones. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyWithAviators Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 The stock single carb you have should be good for about 90mph depending on what diff ratio you are running. Can confirm this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M M Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Just had a quick read through the build thread. Hahaha, it's actually very cool. Hope to see this driving around one day. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 The Vizard book is a great one for A-series tuning. Here's what he says about that manifold "although it may seem difficult to design a badly flowing manifold for the Series A engine, it has been done, and here it is the standard Leyland item" In practice a HIF44 single on a matching manifold is probably a better choice. I'm still running the stock 1 1/4 on my 1098, but have a twin SU set on a different manifold on a shelf somewhere, mainly because the twin carbs look better Link to the book - not a bad price actually with free shipping http://www.bookdepository.com/Tuning-Series-Engine-David-Vizard/9781859606209 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake. Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 wheels look rad! are you gunna paint the flares or leave em as is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtbtimr Posted June 14, 2015 Author Share Posted June 14, 2015 wheels look rad! are you gunna paint the flares or leave em as is? Thanks dude! They are pretty manky so will definitely paint them. Originally were gonna match them to the car but the white is kinda starting to grow on us.. We are just about to finish exams so should get some more work done over the next few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Ha ha- I love that time lapse! cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP450andLE Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 If I were you I'd leave the clutch cover in bare alloy. It would probably pay to use some proper alloy primer stuff, I've never had much luck making paint stick to them for very long. Also looking at the oil cap on the rocker cover, it would probably be a good idea to replace it. If you give me a PM we could talk about setting up some sort of a deal for ordering parts through my work (classiccarparts.co.nz) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mo999 Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 That hole should/must have a plug in it, otherwise the head gasket will leak. Any engine re-conditioner can fix for not much This is what it should be like IMAG0445 by GuyWithAviators, on Flickr 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy1222 Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Thanks heaps, had a quick re-read over GWA's thread - never realised he had pretty much the exact same issue ! Will get that done asap. Cheers! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyWithAviators Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Looking good! I have a feeling your fan is on backwards, mine was like that when I got it and it didn't help the cooling. Look closely on the fan and it will say 'Engine Side'. When it's on right it looks like it should be the other way - but it's correct. Keep it up! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Also the spacer should also be sandwiched between the pulley and the fan. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtbtimr Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Yea just biffed the fan on quickly for the photo if I'm honest. Will put it on properly once it's on its way back into the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldsack.yeh Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 ooooo that painted engine looks good 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldsack.yeh Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 exams..... man i feel you pain. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtbtimr Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 Is it possible to tell whether our engine mounts could do with replacing? Just thought it might save a bit of time down the track if we do them while we have the engine out... Cheers ft. overkill resolution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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