pusherman Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Went out for a wee squirt in my puscort today and a problem that has been a pain has really f'ed me off. It has been cutting out/ coughing spluttering at about 4faaasand revs and today i followed the advice of everybody and put a new condensor in. It was idling fine then died so i thaught no gas but yeah it has dinosaw juice. So im driving home and i get some super fast clicking from what i can only think of as ignition relay under dash. And no more forward momentum. It did it 4 times in a 500m trip. Ive replaced the main earths. Plugs. (New and gapped) points checked and gapped. Condensor, cleaned up rotor arm, and checked connections on the coil. Im now lost short of replacing coil i dont know where to turn. It has an imobiliser alarm that can be a cock. Wondering if thats getting involved when its not wanted. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 I had the same problem with my Ghia but it was just the condensor and coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pusherman Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Try coil tomorow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESKIN8R Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 What are the points like? * Just read your post again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pusherman Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 Right time to digup this pearler again. Cars being a cunt. Ive changed points,condensor,tryed 2 coils, run new earths to chassis new earth to block.and new earth between coil and dizzy It will startand run fine i had it idling for 10-15min didnt cough or anything. Drive off and assoon as i get to accelerating it coughs and splutters and the indicator relay goes fucking mental While idling i used indicator and it killed motor, tryed 3 or 4 times same thing then itdecides it doesnt want kill engine While driving the indicator relay will click and motor dies. Its now to the point where it dies every 30sec while driving. I live 700m from workshop and it dies 4 times. Has anybody known a uniden to interfere like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Has anybody known a uniden to interfere like this? Saw a mongoose like that but never saw a uniden in real life so maybe... if you can bypass it you find out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pusherman Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 Also add ive checked earths on indicators, ive removed indicator relay and it still does it. Its a poo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Could be a worn ignition switch? It would be worth checking over the alarm wiring. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 I think you have a loose connection in/to your alarm and its causing your issues. I think you should re solder the connections or at least remove it completely and see if the problem goes away.  basically the engine isn't connected to any lights in any kind of way other than the alarm , as for a relay clicking its most likely because it is being turned on and off over and over indicating a loose connection, either way the connections need checking or the alarm needs to be removed so you can rule it out.   for a quick test, start the car and wiggle the wiring around the column / alarm and see if it makes the relay tick or even cut the engine off, if it does and you can make it do it over and over then you have found your problem and now you can go about fixing it   hope this helps in some way shape or form Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt4 Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Check the main fuse link wire at the battery(or solenoid) to feed the whole car also check the alternator plug. my mk1 has the batttery feed on one terminal and the rest of the car on the other (if it has a lucas alternator) so if you unplug the alternator the whole car is dead also check that the plug on the bottom of the main fusebox hasnt fallen off (above the glovebox passsenger side) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pusherman Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 So went got anothe alarm and swapped it over thats not it. Ive pulled and poked every wire and connection i can get my hands on ive wiggled and jiggled fingered and fiddled Sprayed half a can of contact cleaner into ignition barrel. Which has made the key more clicky. Stil havent quite found it, the ignition barrel seemed to have some results. But cant be sure. Saturday is only 6 days away il haveanother crack at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
two_days_late Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Long shot but its not some dodgy wiring somewhere else under the dash? From memory nothing runs if the hazard light switch isn't plugged in. Not something somewhere random like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 I think it has to be something in the alarm loom shorting... Can you have a visual over all the joints? I doubt its ignition barrel as that doesn't have anything to do with indicators. There has to be wires chafing or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Simple way to check if it is the alarm causing issues - completely bypass it. I'm assuming that you are still running a stock ignition system, which has the coil ballast in the line? If so, you need to get a ballast resistor from somewhere to temporarily use. Connect a line directly from the battery + terminal via the ballast resistor to the + terminal of the ignition barrell. This way if there is any issues further up the line they will be bypassed. If that works, you then know the issue is between the ignition switch and coil. If still problems, coil, points or condensor are fucked. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pusherman Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 So i found it. So embarasing. I pulled out all dash and un taped everything and set about finding the issue. Even took passenger seat out to get comfy. Search ing and cutting out redoing shit for hours. Until i make a break through, the indicators stop working when the ignition dies. Trace the indicator feed alll the way up to fuse box. Same fuse as ignition. Turns out the copper tab that holds the torpedo fuse was a bit loose so would rattle and cause the miss with the bumps of road. All that shit and breaking down over a loose fuse. Has anybody seen a direct replacement fuse holder for escort that accepts modern blade fuses? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Escort fuse holder haha. wasn't that mentioned above somewhere? They are inherently shit! Just keep em clean and tensioned and it will be sweet. No such thing as a direct replacement but you can replace it with a modern type with a bit of mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pusherman Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 Well i may be onto a winner then i guna make a direct replacement/ frankenstein fuse box and you will all want one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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