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two_days_late

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Everything posted by two_days_late

  1. Cool as, it's about 210mm from the centre of the UJ to the front of the loop based on where I would like to mount it. The Escort floorpan has a corrogated section that wouldn't be great for mounting, but a nice flat section that is the perfect width a little further back. Sounds like this will be fine. Cheers, Matt
  2. Cool that's where I landed as well, though in the drawing it looks like it could be taken as the back or front of the loop... Cheers
  3. Hey guys, Does anyone know if the 250mm from the center of the UJ pivot to the driveshaft loop requirement is based of the front, bac, or center of the loop? i.e. does the 250mm requirement include the 50mm width of the loop itself? Cheers Matt
  4. Thought I'd chuck up a post for these roof racks we just cleaned up for a mates mini (mainly because it's a really cool old mini). We wanted to be able to get 2 full size mountain bikes on the roof but keep it looking old school. We set out to find something to use as a starting point and thankfully @Steelies has just the thing. Racks when I picked them up Just needed a good tickle up with the wire-wheel, a couple coats of satin black rust kill paint, and all new allen head bolt for max style points. Then found online these alloy transport/storage mounts th
  5. Cool thanks, I think I'll bolt it all up and see if it moves when I swing off it, then if it's all good I'll run with it. Will be easy enough to replace the inside plates with larger and welded ones down the track if it's no good come cert time. Cheers Matt
  6. Hey Cletus, thanks for the reply. This setup was in the car originally when I got it, and did work fine. Getting some larger top plates and welding in shouldn't be much of a problem though. Do you think the current setup would pass? Or is it not quite that black and white without actually testing it? Cheers, Matt
  7. Hey guys, just looking for some advice on whether my gearbox cross-member setup for the Esky will pass cert. The mount itself is from Palmside and is 3mm steel. The pieces to mount the gearbox mount to the floor are 5mm steel (with the 2 smaller pieces going inside the car on the floor and the 2 larger pieces going underneath). My main area of concern is whether the pieces that go inside the car are large enough (is there a minimum size?), and whether the taper style bolts will be ok? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated, hoping I can just stick with whats here.
  8. Welcome (back) to the club! Also in Welly and have a shed full of sporty bits if ya need anything. Cheers Matt
  9. We managed to get the motor back in last night without too much trouble. The engine sits in the right position now with the new engine mounts (so the exhaust and carbs fit nicely). Think I have a slightly bent cross-member, and still need to finish sorting the gearbox cross-member and cut the gearbox hole. At least it's in though and can worry about all that next year!
  10. After a long harsh winter of no progress it's finally back on the ground. New coilovers, steering rack, RS hubs, track arms, RS tie rod ends, sway-bar bushes all fitted in the weekend. Should be able to get it really nice and low once the engines in and the coil-overs are wound down... looks like the tyres are gonna rub though so will likely need to swap them. The alloy RS hubs stick out about an inch further than the standard ones. This means the next step is getting the motor back in... which might even happen before Christmas. Finally more steps forward than back!
  11. Put one in a mates GTT Caldina about 4 years ago to replace the leaking factory one and it hasn't had any problems. From memory one of the fittings was different to the factory one so needed to spend another $50 or so on that. Can't remember the detail on exactly what it was though... may have been for the trans-cooler line that runs through it. Cheers Matt
  12. Or you can use a complete Sierra clutch with the Xflow Flywheel, but you will need to get the flywheel re-doweled to match the Sierra clutch. Cost me about $50 at a local machine shop to get mine done. You'll be finding different answers to the same questions as there are a number of equally good ways to do it
  13. The whole arm was bent (which is possibly why the holes were offset), they've been sent back now anyway, the guy was sweet as about it. Cheers Matt
  14. Hmm good point, I don't have stock ones unfortunately (the Escort ones are just part of the strut), none of the photos of them for sale online are offset though. Think I'll go back to the guy. Cheers Matt
  15. Hey guys, I just got these new steering arms from the UK (Capri arms to go on my Capri struts in the Escort). On one of the arms the hole on both ends is offset and the arm itself is slightly bent. I'm not sure if they are new or have just been refurbed, but do these look like acceptable tolerances or should I be sending them back? Cheers Matt
  16. Bit more progress this week. Starting with getting the old trans tunnel brace drilled out (it must have had a different gearbox in it at some stage and someone had mangled the old one), then the new one welded in and sealed (Cheers Joe). Also Por15'd the cross-member and sway-bar so it's ready for the motor to go back in now. Pile of goodies also turned up from the UK. Cheers Matt
  17. So after working on This car for longer than I care to admit, I've had a slight change of plans. Discuss Managed to pick up this genuine sport that'd just been painted so made sense to grab that and put the motor / wheels / box / other sexy bits I've been building up in that, and finish it instead. If anyone knows any history about the car, or has any old photos of it that would be awesome How it looked when I picked it up Starting the tear down process Sorting out the wheels and guards Paneling the engine bay
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