Liam-B Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 They are pretty easy to narrow, just need another housing then swap the short side tube & axle. Sorted. Yeah, Hilux stuff used to be all the rage, once upon a time. I had one in my ke70 turbo wagon years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 That's impressive!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Seems my attached images don't work here! will fix. But yes it opens up a new world of safe DIY rust dipping at home. Fuck paying for all that sandblasting, so far I am in about $150 for the acid and the tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I am totally making my own acid bath. What dilution are you using with your current mix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 3 x 25kg bags in 1000L. Thing to be wary of are multi layered panels, need to do some testing but I imagine its like the phosphoric acid we use for rust conversion in that it stays active in the seams, the seams would all instantly be flash rusting after also. Shop around to get the stuff too, I got it from a farm produce place and it was 1/4 the cost of anywhere else. Pay to try anyone with hookups at RD1 etc (its used in cleaning wine making vats) Make sure you get the anhydrous version not the mono-hydrate as it wont dissolve properly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 fuck yes thats awesome, should be able to get a tank and acid cheapish through farming jokers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Is there any way to neutralize the acid? 1000L milk bath? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 That is pretty choice. How do you neutralize it once you pull it out? Hose it off with water? And yea, what would you do for multi seamed things. Like stripping a whole door? How would you stop it eating sheat. Looks super successful though. Well done! Edit: Beaten by VG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 fuck yes thats awesome, should be able to get a tank and acid cheapish through farming jokers I used to give IBC's away, then some joker told me most places sell them for $500, dang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.wylde Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 fuck yea , must give this a go sometime! weve got a stack of these empty cube tanks at work, boss isn't using them will ask him for one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camel Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Is there a specific type of plastic to use for the holding tank? Would be pretty keen to do this on a smaller scale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liam-B Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 sounds interesting. I've seen people use old bath tubs, they work sweet as for diff housings etc. Are you guys talking about molasses or something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Citric acid is weak as shit normal PVC type plastics will hold it no worries. Na not molasses, citric acid, its the same reaction but 10 million times easier and cleaner. You just wash the part to neutralise, its the weakest acid out its in foods/drinks. You could use baking soda but no need, wash the fuck out of it with water and scrub with scotch brite, dry with the heat gun and paint. I'll probably chuck phosphoric acid stuff (like metal ready etc) on mine so I can store them and paint all at once later on. Have been paint stripping bits to chuck in the tank, bloody old enamel is a prick, just turns to mush! anyway after all the grinding and blasting I did on the Buick this is the nice quiet way to do things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Checked pH for interests sake? Would be good to track how its going after doing heaps of parts etc - thought about how to dump it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbie Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 dilute the fuck out of it and wash it down the drain just like tipping coke down the sink. /probably less acidic than coke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Would be nice but yea it will slowly lose PH as reactions occur. From what Im told you will notice it slow down as you do more parts and there are less ions to react with the rust. I'll probably just top it up Part of the beauty is that you can kill the mix pretty easy with a handfull lime or something, then dump it on the lawn haha. Its essentially as acidic as your household vinager, harmless! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 My workmates old man has made a bath and uses Baking Soda and a battery charger (or something similar - can't remember) and uses that to clean up rust, apparently that works well. He's a mad Stationary engine hoarder and uses it to clean up engines he pulls out of rivers and the likes. He's restored a few engines now using this method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I watched a couple of youtube vids on this process a couple weeks back when you said you were going to do this. They all (well most of them) said to dry the part with a heatgun/blowtorch/something hot rather than let it dry on its own, hitting it with a gun apparently stops it from starting to rust straight away, I guess it burns off any residue or something? Maybe try doing that and see what happens? looks like a rad way of doing this regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Yea heard that one too, and will do the job! the phosphoric acid is lush because you can store the parts for ages. Im going to try some cast soon, see how my smog manifold comes out. Also need some OS input Do I roll vent windows in the front doors or not?? as a functional thing I love vent windows, but chops flow better without them maybe? not the best examples but vents: No vents And KK do I paint my engine cheby orange or a sweet black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I vote vents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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