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Solid Engine & Gearbox mounts


bobdylan

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Point taken. Will stop asking stupid questions.

What i have done is take a scaa ae82 fx16 from the usa which has won many events and started to replica and improve the setup.

Like the c56-LSD which took me a while to find. Rather do it right the first time then have to keep changing it cause i took the easy way out.

The fx uses poly mounts but after reading the various posts it had been mentioned soild mounts improve the engine response.

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If it is of any worth - I have urethane engine mounts in my Commodore right now and the vibration is quite intense.

 

It's actually so intense that I have bought rubber engine mounts to swap them out over Christmas. But I am an old man wuss and am not a fan of vibrations in my car.

(Just ask Shaz what a plastic bag flapping in the back seat can do to my rage levels)

 

I will report back in a few weeks once I have swapped to rubber mounts with the difference.

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Nothing wrong with Sold Poly mounts in Racecar. Fine for road as well there is always some compromise with a race/road car which you just have to live with 

 

We originally Sikaflex'd the original mounts on the ae82 , lasted about a season before it all fell out and was rubbish. Sent mounts away to autolign and they made them into a solid poly mount. they are mint, make a big difference to how the car hooks up out of the corner and throttle response. 

 

I wouldn't be bothered about vibrations, its not bad at all (and our engine has massive lumpy cam to help with vibrations!) in fact I'm planning on mounting my 2zz with Nylon mounts to make it a bit more solid. 

I agree solid mounting metal to metal is rubbish but as long as there is some absorbant material in the middle it is fine. 

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I'm planning on buying a rod of 'delrin' polymer to turn up some bushes/mounts. The factory rubber mounts allow so much movement that the headers have recenlty broken due to metal fatigue. I'll post up here when I instal and get results.

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