Steelies Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 alternator brackets? edit - beaten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 if you go the RWD route isn't the whole lot different, water pump is different and the pulley has a different offset etc. You can just run the front tugs shit like a boss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 yeah cant you still run the fwd alt bracket? ryanfels is using a 16v fwd alt bracket on his 20v anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 It may have something to do with what side the P/S pump is on? My 86 dont have P/S so not 100% sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae85 fiend Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 I've got some 4age parts and stuff left over - not much.. But yeah, I've got the rwd head stuff just sitting in a cabinet.. And if you're interested in SHWAGS 7afe block, you're more than welcome to it after i've bought it. I'm pretty much wanting it for the head/ parts etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzayD Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 The heads are specific aren't they? fwd 4afe's have dizzy sticking out the back towards g box, i could be wrong. I agree red top. For a revvy engine 4ages are good. I prefer T series or R series engines. I think a really minimalist 4 age would go quite hard. But they are getting hard to find, old, tired and for some reason expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae85 fiend Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Yeah they're expensive, but they are fairly cheap to rebuild though... Parts wise its pretty cheap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 4AGE Red Big Port with massive cams and Silvertop rods, FWD alt and shit, tig the water pump impeller on the the shaft so it won't get yanked of by the fan or run an electric fan. T50 for the box and if you have Power steer use the FWD stuff there to and get custom lines, works out way cheaper than trying to find the RWD specific stuff. That's my 2 cents worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 For various reasons will probably go electric fans. So what does all of this stuff go for? i.e. Redtop block/T50 I'm more for buying stuff in poorer condition (because then you know its NOT good, rather than 'came off running engine') and rebuilding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 The most recent smallport I bought was for $150, admittedly a bargain, without loom, but generally commands a higher price than the bluetop stuff, (and come sup for sale less often) The bluetop stuff I have found has been cheap as chips, I got this 2age motor a guy had built from fresh parts for $34, I just used the head, but the hole bottom end appears new - another bluetop bottom end I got for free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 i fell like i should be in this conversation. but have nothing to say, that everyone else hasn't said already. what ever you choose, if you're rebuilding. bump up the compression. 12.5:1 no worries on pump gas if have good ignition control. arp rod bolts and balance are good piece of mind, for towards 9000rpm. silvertop rods are the pick for strong na. smallport are bigger but bit of an overkill /heavy don't put coby's on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 ^ I was waiting for you to chime in.... I assume off the shelf performance parts for these things are easy to get? Do the 16V heads respond well to porting, or just require casting flashes to be tickled up? What sort of $$$ to you expect to pay for a 22 spline t50? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachlander Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Prices for t50s can vary, but generally around $600 for box and bellhousing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 agree^ A series bell housing is just as expensive as a t50, you could probably pick up a t50 minus the bell or with a T series bell for around 300. but the A series bell going to cost you that again. yeh parts are easy to get for them. heads will respond well to porting. but as usual, long as who ever doing it, knows there stuff. can do some simple stuff yourself to make them better though. chop the bumps and sharp edges out in the chambers. in the ports they usually have some nasty bumps below the valve seats, both on inlet and exhaust. tidying them up can help. but may want to reseach how much to take out if you haven't done it before. there is a post somewhere what i did to my last one. which goes real good for what it is. but is still a bit of a guess. as did it without a flow bench or anything. .5mm head skim and .8mm trd head gasket. is good for more compression. depends what pistons you're planing on running though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 You mean this? http://garage4ag.wordpress.com/2012/02/25/head/ I was considering building a DIY flow bench to check some port work I have been doing on some 202 motors (not that it is difficult to make those things flow better), will cross that bridge if I get there. I assume it is possible to just run a megasquirt to control the ignition timing? I'd run it with a AFR sensor downstream, can the MS be programmed to pull a few degrees of timing out if it goes lean? I also assume it is relatively easy to procure an aftermarket crank pulley with trigger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 yeh ms will run ignition, should be able to do afr ignition trim with it. but cant say for sure, haven't done megasquirt stuff for ages. anything stopping you going full efi? (itb's) over carbs? you can run a megasquirt on the factory triggers in the dizzy. had best results using zeal daughter board for the factory triggers. another cheap option would be to get an old v4 / v5 link, and use that for ignition control. you'd have to find one setup for toyota triggers though. if you want super hassle free. run a g4 link and itb's. could even give you my tune for base tune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Carbs will be more in line with the theme of the build, any electronic trickery will attempted to be hidden. Getting a head of myself now, need to start collecting some bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Further question, what is a set of webbers with manifold worth? I'll guess at $400? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 I sold a set of Webers and a manifold for twice that years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Really??? You can import them for ~NZ$400 brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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