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Casting an Intake manifold


SOHC

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i dont know if its been covered or not but if your trying to get aluminum to flow into small areas or your mold is a little more complex you can heat the shell (mold) to around 2-300degrees to aid the flow and slow the cooling process. 

and once again it probably been covered but de-gassing tablets are key.

 

i really like casting as a process. its WAY harder than it looks and the skill required to make even basic shapes is pretty impressive. 

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I havent looked much at lost wax, but 5 days at 800c? wow! That second video i posted shows the dude melting out foam and PLA using his furnace at 1000 deg in a pretty short time. Didnt realise lost wax would take that long...

Quite keen to start my own casting soon. Just keen to do brackets etc for mounting super charger and things like that. Nothing too complicated (famous last words haha)

Where in NZ do you get your supplies from? and what did you use to make your furnace etc? I havent looked into where to get all the bits and pieces from in NZ to make the furnace and where to get the same etc. Also, how are you making up your plaster? I'm probably going to do a lot of lost PLA 3D printed parts as i'm too lazy/not skilled enough to make sweet mock up parts 3% bigger than they need to be so 3d printing seems like the easiest solution :)

I am doing it the old way they have been doing for 4000 years, there is a new way using molochite and sodium silicate to make the fire proof mold witch can be burnt out with a big LPG burner, its called ceramic shell casting, I have tried it but it was hard to get it to work.

 

 

If your making solid brackets you could use casting sand, I have dutch oil sand witch is very easy to use, or NZ green sand witch is a cunt to use but its cheep.

 

http://www.metcast.com/

 

They sell all the sands and refractory stuff, crucibles are cheep, around $30 for my 8 KG #A8,  furnace has cast refractory cement witch is expensive or you could use Kawool, all my hand tools and burner etc I have made.   

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i dont know if its been covered or not but if your trying to get aluminum to flow into small areas or your mold is a little more complex you can heat the shell (mold) to around 2-300degrees to aid the flow and slow the cooling process. 

and once again it probably been covered but de-gassing tablets are key.

 

i really like casting as a process. its WAY harder than it looks and the skill required to make even basic shapes is pretty impressive. 

 

I would NEVER pore into a cold or damp mold, it will explode, I nearly lost my ear

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This is very very cool!

 

If you guys are interested in making casting moulds from PLA and burning them out (similar to lost wax) I will be importing 3d Printers very very soon. I have just signed the agreement and am negotiating prices. I will advertise here if i am allowed (will talk to mods).

 

Keep it up tho, Casting is very cool, sadly aluminium is a lot more toxic then people realise and its good to see you wearing a mask.

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What 3D printers are you getting in? Some NZ ones available for $1200 as of a week or 2 ago, and there's some in the us for $500 with some for as little as $350 coming out later this year.

3D printer has been on my list for a long time now and they are getting affordable enough to buy, shipping is just the killer and the gst and customs fees don't help either

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Kinda, but in reverse. Its like a CNC hot glue gun that squirts layers of molten plastic to create a 3D model

I see,  just looked it up on youtube,

 

Do they have any programs for making molds for casting car parts?

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Not so much. You just draw up a part in solidworks or the likes, expand it by 3% somehow (I'm not a solidworks person so no idea how etc) print it, attach the risers etc out of foam, put in plaster and burn it out in your forge

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I've just been checking some of this stuff out, and crap.. does 3d printing make casting easy, even simpler if you have a 3d scanner. All you'd have to is scan the broken/modified/wax model part, print it,cast it and hey presto accurate casts with a superior finish.... 

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What 3D printers are you getting in? Some NZ ones available for $1200 as of a week or 2 ago, and there's some in the us for $500 with some for as little as $350 coming out later this year.

3D printer has been on my list for a long time now and they are getting affordable enough to buy, shipping is just the killer and the gst and customs fees don't help either

 

Sadly they wont be that cheap, but i will be a distributor here in NZ so i will hold replacement parts/stock/warrantee/servicing so no freight costs/import fees to consider when looking at pricing as it will all be incorporated. More will be reveled soon

 

Using a 3d printer for casting seems like a viable, affordable option. PLA as a material is a accurate, stable material thats made from corn that has a very low melting point so would be perfect for lost wax casting. It will pretty much vapourise when you pour and leave no contaminates behind (compared to other plastics that have components with higher melting points).

 

 

I see,  just looked it up on youtube,

 

Do they have any programs for making molds for casting car parts?

 

Look into Google Sketchup, it is free and a very capable software suite that has free plug-ins for expanding what you draw to accommodate the shrinkage of casting. 

 

Another thing you guys should look into is 3d scanners. You can use an Xbox kinect as a 3d scanner. Unfortunately its resolution isnt good enough to do anything smaller then a chair at the moment, but the Kinect 2 is looking very promising.

 

Sorry to hijack your thread.

 

 

 

Where did you get your Green sand from? Homebrew? Aluminium just scrap metal?

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The green sad was from trade me but you can get it from http://www.metcast.com/ my aluminum was just scrap but I wouldn't recommend this as its cheep enough to buy the proper shit new

 

 

Red sand is the stuff anyone doing sand casting at home should look into, you can re use it if you pick off the burnt bits

 

I have some its easy to use, green sand you have to put water with it and its crumbly, I have 3 buckets of the stuff.

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I've just been checking some of this stuff out, and crap.. does 3d printing make casting easy, even simpler if you have a 3d scanner. All you'd have to is scan the broken/modified/wax model part, print it,cast it and hey presto accurate casts with a superior finish.... 

 

My dad works with this guy, http://www.procadsys.co.nz/handyscan-3d-scanners/ and good 3D scanners will set you back $10000s (at least last time I checked). Not sure how much it would be for a one-off scan though

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slight aside, but does anyone know how much foundries charge to do something like a manifold in aluminium?

 

Depends if you have a patten witch is a very complex and very expensive thing, the casting isn't expensive.

 

 

Friend of mine got Masport to cast some reproduction cylinder barrels for a motorcycle, was $150 to cast but over $20,000 for the patten      

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