Popular Post mjrstar Posted August 11, 2014 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 11, 2014 Yeah hasn't quite got to that stage as we had planned unfortunately So the plan last weekend was to get the car to a state where it could be run, that meant a bunch of time on saturday and all of Sunday, there were a few issues along the way like my crossed wires (or make that hoses) for the remote mounted oil filter setup. So we sorted that, the champion tig master finished off the breather can and I pieced more of the bits back together, including putting the wideband in position in anticipation of a quick tuning session up on the axle stands. Come 5 PM sunday it was primed with oil, filled with coolant and ready to turn key. Unfortunately the disasterous noise that was eminating from the ring gear engagement meant that there was no chance of us turning any of BP's finest into heat, noise and rotating energy. So next on the list is to have a bit more of a tinker with starter engagement location, and if that's a no-go the engine and box will come out for a re-think of the flexi plate setup - (maybe with a mitsi ring gear welded to the current toyota flexi plate. Anyway, parting shot of the engine fairly well connected up but not fired up as yet. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 I still have that 4g63 flexplate if you want it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Put a hand crank out the front, custom hole through radiator 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Yeah, I really do want it have it up and running to iron out any other bugs prior to removing the engine and box for the permanant ring gear solution, bigfoot you have PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Wind rope around a rear wheel and pull start? /somewhat serious but also commenting for the hilarious imagery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 I would look at other options if the car had a suitable start tune - (tow start) but seeing as i will be needing to tinker with major fuelling changes and crank enrichment to get it fired up i need to be able to crank the engine for 10-15 seconds at a time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Put a hand crank out the front, custom hole through radiator add tee pieces to spark plugs with decompression valves and your off / spam 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 I have found myself rather proficient and starter removal and installation (not the easiest of tasks with the turbo all bolted up) ias i have been trying a few ideas to improve the gearmesh on the starter. shifting the starter outwards radially from the ring gear a couple of mm as suggested sounded like a good place to start but no joy. I machined this up at work on Friday (on my day off) although it does not seem to have made much difference.. Stater is not sounding 100% healthy on the bench test so might be time to pull it to bits for a clean-up. really could do with finding a 4E toyota starter to compare tooth profile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mjrstar Posted August 29, 2014 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 29, 2014 New (second hand) starter plus adjustments to the supporting ring and it now engages perfectly.Car starts and runs on the base tune sweet as with some re scaling to suit the larger injectors. Here is a picture of how Friday morning looked, Its pretty good feeling to have this thing turn fuel into energy and noise considering the number of second hand, fabricated, and experimental parts which have been mashed together, Even simple stuff like the galant CAS into the Evo 4 head was an unknown, let alone the pistons which have the valve cut-outs opposite to the head, or the squillions of other random things which have found their way onto this machine . 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 I have roughed out the coolant expansion tank as my borrowed sheetmetal bender was due to find its way to the new owner.. It should sit somewhere around here. Also some plumbing on rear brakes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 So clearly I am an instrumentation technician. I know how to use a decade box... turns out that the internet lied to me and the signal range is actually 10-70 ohms to to a full sweep of the oil pressure and that 41.90 ohms is around 2kg/cm2. this would be cool if the second hand sender i brought actually worked, which it does not.. So the plan is to go aftermarket with a built in idiot light, but unless I'm mistaken then I can only buy senders with a 10-180 ohm range, but I should be able to get something of ~114 ohms in parallel and the sender and gauge will play happy families? Based on:1/180 = .00556 (new sender)1/70 = .14286 (old sender) .014286-.00556 = .00873 (new sender minus old sender) 1/.00873 = 114.54 Ohms Before you nerds suggest that kg/cm2 and bar are not the same thing , yes i agree but given the scale on ths gauge i don't think there is enough disparity to get carried away on that.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mjrstar Posted November 2, 2014 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 2, 2014 Well yesterday was a success, finished piecing the car back together, including the coolant overflow and oil sendier block.. So mid afternoon we fired it up, set the base timing, and rolled it out of the garage.We got about 2k's down the road, and the Idiot oil light flashes up, along with a bit of a trail of oil behind us.Turns out you shouldn't believe the internet for guidelines on how to fit hose ends to Stainless braid, luckily the engine seems to be fine still, and I now know how deep you need to insert the olive back down inside the teflon to get the proper grip.Anyway after a bit of a clean-up, and the hose put together properly we were out for round two. The timing numbers were flattened out a it for the run-in and Afr's tweaked a bit. withing about 8 k's it was seeing wastegate pressure (about 9.5 PSI) and it was pulling reasonably well from low RPM in the taller gears. There is a slight stutter at WOT in tall gears as it builds boost, although AFR's and timing look ok.. So that will need a bit of further digging.Driveshaft was given it first clutch-dump test which resulted in a solid launch rather then wheelspin or the carbon fibre prop shaft turning to dust. (great)Initial impressions - the clutch feels nice and progressive (but needs another bleed), gerarchanges are slick and positive feeling but it will take some getting used to the position of 5th and 6th, the diff grips up nicely, and the handling is not too bad (although have not really pushed it yet). No noticeable driveshaft vibe at higher speeds.One clear contender for the rubbish awards is the big master matched with the OEM front brakes, man they are properly wooden..Will try and find a photo so this isn't just a wall of text note poverty pack wheels off my kp on the front as they are still 4x100 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 Still working through small issues to tidy up before more tuning takes plance, one of which was bonnet retention.. So hopefully these should prevent having to use a tie-down to hold the bonnet.. It would have been good to keep the original catch but that had to get binned to make way for the intercooler.. Also do we appear to be winning at cold air intake?? Before anyone pipes up yes these are supposed to be mounted fore/aft but that ould only work with the catches backwards and an ugly pin angle so sideways made more sense.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 So.. have put a few more k's on this machine, and found a couple of niggles - a small defect in the coil wiring saw it drop onto 3 cylinders, took a while to find the problem but that's all sorted (still need to re-tidy the loom though). The master fab man was executing some lightening quick gearchanges (the clutch seems up for it which is good) but the weld from the gearlever to the hardened universal was not so happy (and of course it was in 6th gear which made for an interesting limp home) this area has now been reinforced with some extra mounting bracket to transfer the load. Managed to get the factory oil pressure gauge to sweep the correct way with the aftermarket VDO sender - although the range isn't quite right it does respond reasonably well. The last issue was a sudden lean-out (pretty short duration so shouldn't have done much in the way of damage), I have dropped a new walbro pump into the tank but have not been out for a road test to confirm the AFR's are all good again.. But the motor now has about 100k's on it, and has seen 16psi boost and 6000rpm now so it's pretty well seen all the "running in" it's going to. Hopefully the fuel pump sorts the issue - if not it might be a regulator I guess. Next mission is probably sorting out the seats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 So.. On a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being a Gemini and 10 being your falcon, how fast is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 I have only driven 1 gemini what a weird gearlever position... on 1 bar it goes about the same as my 230 wheel kw evo. Much slower than my falcon but faster than your average 1800 turbo mx5. It feels like it should have potential on 24psi to drag off a 2zz corolla. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youwontgetpartsforitmate Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Reading this makes me feel inadequate. Love it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoBilly Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 video of it boosting is required 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 Seats sorted, also the new fuel pump has cured the lean issue. Had to mod the trans tunnel some more and ditch the original rear seat mounts.. The base template was a good time saving idea and to save in and outs of the seats and ease of welding / positioning. also had my first tinker with the virtual dyno freeware which is pretty cool. Car is making around 190kw on 1.1 bar at 5000 rpm. So should make the 250-260 kw target easily.. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Good work man, coming along sweeeeeeet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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