0R10N Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Well, that could have been worse. Anyway, I have had good experiences so far with these springs out of Japan: http://page2.auction...tion/b138929157 As for shocks, your guess is as good as mine; all I'm currently running are the factory Tokicos, shortened to accept the springs above. Neither of my Corollas seem to get their squat on (which is kinda weird, as you'd expect the sedan to be very very squatty). If you find a neat solution I'll be watching with interest, decided coilovers are going to be too excessive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Yeah, i won't be going to coil-overs either. Stiff springs and shocks with adjustable stiffness are likely the best option, be they KYB, Koni, Bilstein or GAZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Whoa! You better take that new grill off, it makes the weather turn to shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 It's indicative of how menacing the vehicle becomes once the grille was changed, even the weather was concerned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Checked it for vacuum leaks yet? I seem to recall there being many many random orifices on those inlet manifolds which could spring an air leak. Fuel consumption is probably just par for the course with a 30 year old non cross flow turbo 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 100 km on half a tank is probably just a smidge excessive though, aye? I've not checked for it as yet but there's nothing easily audible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0R10N Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 nice plates... When did you obtain a sweet DR-style front valance? check the position of the throttle stop and subsequent idle air adjusters scattered around the intake... you may find that something is partially open. Have a look at dem plugs too, if they're fouled to shit you can probably deduce the computer is dumping fuel in. Stuck in WOT mode perhaps? The FJ TPS is super sensitive to TPS adjustments, the L could well be similar. Nick/stagefumer might have some tips for tweaking the L (if he's still around). personally I would love to spend a weekend down your way trying to figure this shit out; any excuse to leave auckland really! P.S. sedans r sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Heh,I got it a few weeks back, had to glue it back together, still needs some work in that arena but I got impatient and put it on anyway. Once the skirts arrive, the exterior additions (other than wheels) will be complete. I'll have a look around the intake when I get home from Teretonga. What so the idle adjuster blah blah things look like? You know you're always welcome at mine, come for a visit, foh sho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 I would start looking around the temperature sensor, check for broken wires and maybe change the sensor if you have another one. The L28 (and FJ) TPSs actually have very little adjustment, it's only a 2 position switch, idle, full throttle and anything else in between is supposed to be where the computer runs in closed loop with the O2 sensor. Set it so the two idle contacts are touching when the throttle is fully closed and so they break contact when the pedal is just touched. You can be the full throttle contact a bit so that it's in closed loop mode for longer which should equal better fuel consumption on a good running car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0R10N Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Hmm interesting, good to know. Back when my coupe was running like a bag of shit it took an hour of adjusting the TPS before it "came right". It also mitigated the issue with the ridiculously high idle, a particularly annoying hesitation on light throttle/cruise, and the revs stopped holding between gears, which is why I thought it might be related... Then again the AAC/EGR systems were cleaned out and refurbished at the same time so it probably all added up in the end. We made sure to adjust the TPS independently of these changes though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldturkey Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Lies, if you can weld it, then you can JB Weld it. And how much fuel is too much fuel? If its around 14L/100km then its on par with my N/A L26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 How does half a tank for 107km sound? I think we've partially sorted some of it, the rest is TPS and Idle related. It doesn't appear to be switching off the fuel pump on decell trying to sort that wiring currently, that's hopefully the final piece of the overconsumption puzzle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegie Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 decel? you wont be needing that. dont know if it was mentioned, but engine coolant sensors on old nissans can cause massive fuel usage. my FJ suffered from this big time. also, have you got the correct afm for the engine? they are pretty interchangable, but not the same as far as gas goes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 I'm basically using all the parts that were already attached when the motor was in the sedan. Which devices should I be removing and cleaning on that cluttered intake manifold of doom? Also, I need decel because it holds revs when you punch the clutch to shift gears. It's shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Sticky throttle or air leak for therun on when changing gears? Doubt it's a fuel thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegie Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 i cant see a decent pic in you build thread of intake, but the engine coolant sensor is brass, with a bosch style injector plug on it (2 wire) whereas gauge sensor is a single spade terminal. the not idling down sounds like a possible vacuum leak? maybe the cold air bypass regulator is gummed up? i removed mine as it wasnt great, and later figured out its in series with the fuel pump wiring. no wonder it wouldnt go lol. post a pic of the intake some stage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 The only reason I say fuel pump is the wiring thing that DJZ put up earlier. It's fine below 2500ish it'll drop revs perfectly, anything about and it holds them and takes a few seconds to come down, which seems to be exactly what the wiring for that TPS does. My concern there though is that it's all three wire yet the plug going to mine only has two wires going into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegie Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 the two wire thing is normal. FJ manuals state the tps is 3 wire, but all 4 looms ive had are 2 wire. the 2 wires are for the throttle closed switch. the 3rd wire is for full throttle position, and in almost every case ive seen, isnt connected. the coolant temp sensor looks to be just under the top hose in the thermostat housing. cant really see it clearly in those pics. check the contacts are clean. a high resistance reading will cause over fuelling. temp sensor should read 1-2 K ohms when cold if you have a multimeter the cold air bypass is the valve on the manifold above #2 runner. does this engine run on oxy sensor in the exhaust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 I believe so, yeah, single weird spade connector as part of a large white plug thing that plugs onto a black rubbery boot thing that attached underneath the intake/near the truebro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 How does half a tank for 107km sound?Sounds like an L-series TBH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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