danger Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Its impossible to judge without seeing it properly. The photos you've taken are zoomed in so far you cant tell the size and location of the rust that it does have. 1980s Corollas all rust. Its a fact. Accept it. Pictures like this give me the shits. Your car has obviously been resprayed straight over the top of previous rust in certain places. And it looks to have been done recently. The rust in the pic isn't bad, it just gives an indication of the lack of pride in the work of the person who's painted it. Who knows what else is hiding under that paint if they don't bother to even disguise those bits. On the other hand your car could be immaculate under the paint. This is highly unlikely and if you choose to look at everything in a "best case scenario" you'll be continuously disappointed with what you find. I'd do the repair properly in steel, treat and seal behind it and possibly add more drainage. That way if you do decide to strip the car later on you wont have to fix it twice... Bodyfiller is fine if used correctly but its still no substitute for steel. The filler cant rust but it can crack, swell and trap moisture against the good steel that's in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 To add to this, the pic of the rust by your fuel cap has penetrated right through from the inside out... This means you'll likely have a lot more rust behind the steel and that is just the area that has penetrated the deepest so far. To get rid of the rust you'd have to start cutting out patches to see how far it has spread. There's no way a professional should then just fill that void with filler. It would take me longer to fill it with filler than it would to repair it in steel and a very light skim of filler. I imagine the panelbeater you've spoken to would just be wanting to grind it back a little without even cutting it out. That would only get rid of some of the rust he can see on the outside (forgetting about the inside completely) maybe dent the area in a little then cover it with filler. That's not a repair at all its just masking the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 yep, I see where you coming from. After I stripped most of the interior and took to the panel beater, I asked him to look for places that isn't original. He pointed out some places, and told me where has been fixed before, mostly just little bit of wheel arches and bottom of B pillars. He also mentioned it's very unlikely they would come out in short period of time if it has been good for last 5 years. Hopefully I wouldn't dispointting too much when I do my restoration. Yehp, I would perfer cut and weld as well. will get someone else to have a look at it, see what they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 To add to this, the pic of the rust by your fuel cap has penetrated right through from the inside out... This means you'll likely have a lot more rust behind the steel and that is just the area that has penetrated the deepest so far. To get rid of the rust you'd have to start cutting out patches to see how far it has spread. There's no way a professional should then just fill that void with filler. It would take me longer to fill it with filler than it would to repair it in steel and a very light skim of filler. I imagine the panelbeater you've spoken to would just be wanting to grind it back a little without even cutting it out. That would only get rid of some of the rust he can see on the outside (forgetting about the inside completely) maybe dent the area in a little then cover it with filler. That's not a repair at all its just masking the problem. we penetrated with a screw driver. First layer of steel is gone, the second layer is mint so far. We can see fresh steel. From what I am looking is fuck all rust, but from a repair point of view it's a technical job as two of them told me. The main reason, one of the repair want to take the fuel tank out is because, he doesn't want to weld next to the fuel cap. which would cause explosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 I'd be suprised if that paint over the rust in the pic I posted above is 5 years old. There is very little staining from it bleeding which is a tell-tale sign of rust having broken the surface of the paint. If that were 5 years old with penetration and flaking that deep I would expect it to have advanced a lot further. But I could be wrong. Happens all the time. Also the fuel tank thing, fair enough, its his decision. personally I'd just stuff something down it and seal it up before welding around it so it cant vent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 The overall car paint is 5 years old as Ed's mate is a good friend with the last owner. Had it for 5 years never done anything to it. It's hard to say, the rust that in the photo has been treated and hardened . i.e black in colour. I have not fully sand it yet tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 I'm not going to get into this discussion as it's just going to end up with me getting angry but I do want to add for Danes sake that the rust that's been painted over in that pic is under the boot/hatch seal. It's under the seal so it will have been protected to some extent from air getting in there and allowing it to weep and continue rusting at a normal rate. Super super common place for these cars to rust. But easily accessible too so not hard to fix. The rust under the fuel flap makes me instantly scared. There are so many places on these cars that are 3 or 4 layers thick and none of them are very well protected from the factory. They all rust from the inside out and it's only a matter of time before they break through. Around the rear arches and at the bottom of the rear quarter panels is by far the worst spot on these cars as when the boot starts to leak this is where the damage starts. It's all happening from the inside so you won't notice until it gets like this. I suspect (as has already been pointed out) that the rust under your fuel cap is the tip of the iceberg and if you went digging properly you would find a large amount on rust trapped between the inner layers. Find a panel beater you trust and don't fucking skimp. You don't have to do a bare metal restoration but at least do yourself (or the next owner) a favour and properly repair the areas that need doing now. Oh and considering I've written this much already I'm going to reiterate what's already been pointed out above. The fuel tank is a piece of piss to remove. You can do it yourself. It will be within your capabilities. Just follow the manual and you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 yep, that's cool. I will grind attack it see how big the rust is at the fuel cap. see if it is actually much bigger than I thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 HOLD ON. get the panelbeater to do that mate. Please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 Done and dusted. The picture is very clear now. There is much less rust than I thought, and as you can see, even the first layer is pretty good. all the rust are pretty much just between the first layer and the factory sealant. Second layer is mint. Little bit concerned here, the bit Right under the fuel cap has LOT of surface BOG. He could have cut and weld the wheel arches and had to bog it to make to shape or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 Keep going to the left... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 Are you grinding around the fuel cap with the tank still in?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 Keep going to the left... I was thinking about that. but then...really don't want to at this stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 ling ling if you are going to attack your panels with a grinder, use a paint stripping wheel rather than a grinding disc. panel steel is thin, it doesnt take much with a grinder wheel to go thru the steel. and wear safety goggles, the bits that fly off hurt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazytim Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Sorry but how is that 2nd layer considered mint? if by mint you mean corroded and fucked looking then yes its mint. And wtf take cletus' advice immediately, you have probably halved the thickness of any steel you have touched with your grinder of doom. Those paint stripping wheels will eat rust/bog/paint without leaving a single mark on the steel- and good news too: no sparks, attack around fuel filler carefully without much worries, assuming you wanna keep tank in to keep drivable? Get a spraybomb of primer/etch/anything to cover bare steel if your storage isn't nice and dry- from prev pics looks like a carport?! No sense in letting it oxidise back up especially seeing you seem like me and will take a bit of time to decide what to do. I have forwarded your thread to a mate who is a certed welder and works for very friendly rates... I would give you his number but think you would probably be any tradesmans worst nightmare, if he thinks you will be tolerable he may be in contact about helping you out. Seems to me you want a good repair done for bodge up rates... decide which. Its an AE86 so will be money worth spending... unlike my Chevette... I don't wanna tell what I spent on the rust in the rear of my Chevini... lets just say all up (incl repower with crappy G200z) it owes me more than your old AE86 cost you to buy... and is maybe worth $4k max when I finally get it going. Finally how do I stop getting e-mail updates every time this thread is added to? I can never help but check every link forwarded to my email and would like to stop this one now. Please. Pretty please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Finally how do I stop getting e-mail updates every time this thread is added to? I can never help but check every link forwarded to my email and would like to stop this one now. Please. Pretty please.Click unsubcribe topic up the top left on the page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Hey thanks tim bro i got it repaired. Wasn't that much worried about the metal i grinded as it will be a cut and weld job. I got garage Thank you again for your help Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazytim Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 unsubscribed Cheers Borad! Niiiiiiiiice!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 So I am getting this to put the quarter glass back on. The problem is I can't find any double adhesive sided one. Might just glue it on one side. Any better solutions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Urethane? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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