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Painting small parts


Snoozin

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I have a number of small pieces for the KP I want to paint, and I want them all to last. Stuff like headlight bowls, brackets, stays etc.

What is the most reliable/durable method of doing this while remaining somewhat cost effective?

I have a small air compressor which I think would be up to the task of this sort of thing. I'm not after super shiny SEMA winning finishes, I was more thinking along the lines of satin black for all this stuff. But I want it to last. So what kind of paints, gun, and how should I use it all?

Or alternatively should I just be using rattle cans? My experience with them isn't flash though, really (although impatience probably has a lot to do with it).

Idea me!!!

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wattl killrust paints are a really strong spray can paint, can sometimes give a bit of an hammer finish and sometimes not, unsure if that's just my technique/what im painting or they actual paint.

powder coating can sometimes be pretty cheap if the painters are already spraying that colour too

edit: that post above reminds me you can also get killrust in a tin too

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From memory por15 is not "uv stabilised" - according to their datasheets at least - and they suggest using one of their other products (chassis black?) for things that won't get a top coat of some other paint. (This is all IIRC as I read it, and not from practicle experience which UJ clearly has)

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From memory por15 is not "uv stabilised"

100% true. I got the impression that Richie was painting stuff that would live out of the sun though, but he didn't actually say so i could be giving yet more bad advice.

Also: If you purchase a can of POR15 you must also purchase a small roll of Gladwrap to place between the tin and the lid errtime you use the paint.

The bestest spraycan of etch seems to be the Wattyl product. It adheres an gazzionion times better than CRC Zinc-It. Yes. An gazzionion times better. I counted.

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If you have a compressor you can borrow a spray gun (assuming you don't already have one) and paint them properly. A little compressor is fine for brackets and stuff.

All of the bumper mounts and stuff like that on my Silvia were sandblasted to bare metal and then etch primed with a PPG product (can't remember the code right now) and then a hit with a 2 pot gloss black. 3 years later they still look as good as the day I painted them. IMO this is the 'best' way to deal with things like this. Rattle cans are just much less durable. You can buy small tins of decent quality paints so it doesn't have to cost a squillion dollars. There's always a tradeoff between how much dicking around is required and how long the finish will last though.

If the parts will have stones and stuff hitting them then this wont be the best way to go. If you have suspension components and whatnot then I'd reccomend spraying thinned down POR15 or powder coating. I say spraying the POR15 cos it's not really much more work than brushing it on and it's actually quite a pleasure to use when it's thinned down properly. It will give you a gloss finish.

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Sweet thanks for the replies.

The few undercar bits and the diff I need to do, I'll do in POR15, this is a given (and I've already had a bunch of parts powdercoated... doh) but the other pieces that I want to do in a satin I can't do in POR15 since it only comes glossy.

I might go and have a yak to a paint shop about something suitable...

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It will stick to bare steel if its been roughed up and hit with metal ready. They do a product called chassis black that can be applied while the por15 is drying, it comes in satin and is UV resistant, works well. They also have a primer that will etch into the POR15 with no sanding and enable you to appy any topcoat you like. I do agree with cam that a etch and 2pac top coat is also a good optiion

If its bits that are visible in the engine bay the gold zinc plating Jase recomended looks awesome, gives a factory new look to some bits also

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