Jump to content

Master Power Turbos


zep

Recommended Posts

Anyone had experience with these?

I'm looking at the GT25 (Garrett GT28 clone apparently) to replace my RB25DET T3. They are not Chinese, but made in Brazil but a company who has been building turbos for the Brazilian drag racing scene for over 20 years.

This is what I'm looking at.

http://www.frantik.co.nz/MasterPower%20 ... 0GT25.html

Anyone had any experience with this brand? Any stories to tell, good, bad?

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have one, the build quality is pretty good (it has been apart and looked at) and size wise they are closely based on early garrets.

You won't see any fancy lightweight titanium aluminide turbine wheels but if you plan to run less than 2 bar / 28 psi boost they will work just fine.

PM Barry (BAZDA) on Toyspeed, he may do you a sharp deal as he is an agent for them. :bounce:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Leon,

The GT25 comes in 2 types of ex flanges, T3 & T25, so you can take your pick to what suits you the best. The T3 however uses a bigger ex wheel. Refer to specs below.

T25 Flange with internal wastegate

The compressor is a 60 Trim 0.42a/r

Inlet diameter: 60mm

Outlet diameter: 50mm

Inducer: 46.4mm

Exducer: 60mm

Exhaust T25 flange 0.47a/r or 0.65a/r

Exducer: 48mm

Inducer: 53.4mm

trim: 81

Core: Water & Oil cooled Journal bearing

The T3 flange housing I believe does not come with the internal gate, but I can check on that. Also it has a bigger exhaust wheel as well for that housing.

Exducer: 49.5mm

Inducer: 60mm

Trim: 60

Thanks

Barry

This is what I got back from him. How do I make the choice? Ideally I'd like to be internally gated, but I can live with not being. Also, would prefer to be T3 flange so I don't have to mod my manifold, but it looks like either way I might have to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The T25 really is a tiny flange, it would put a fair bit of restriction in the system. Size wise what he has listed will be slightly smaller than a factory TD05-16g from an Evo.

http://www.frantik.co.nz/MasterPowerT04E.html

I have this T04E T300 STG 1 with the .63 rear housing.

Oh hey,

If you wanted one of those TD05HR's is a good condition one on MMC for $400 with manifold and I might have a spare brand new TD05 inlet flange or you can buy them on trademe? Plus you should be able to sell the manifold for a bit?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is another part of our conversation. Sound like the GT25 with the T3 flange will be big enough, although he did say something about porting the wastegate, but I can ask about that later.

Hey Leon,

All my prices are the best prices. And they are cash prices.

Ok GT25 is what you need then with that engine.

The T3 flanged one would be the best to suit your needs with a 0.48a/r exhaust to maximize spool.

This will def make up to the 200kw mark no worries!

Yes the agent in NZ has them in stock now, the turbo will be delivered direct from their factory ($10) or you can pick up off me if your in the Auckland Area.

Barry

Hey Barry,

The engine I'm using is not the RB25DET. It's a 1.6 (now 1.9) Isuzu 8v SOHC which is currently turbo'd using an RB25DET turbo (although the seals are screwed). The rest of the engine specs can be seen here.

At the moment it makes max boost (12psi) at around 2800rpm with max power of 112rwkw at 5200rpm. I'd like to increase the boost while keeping a relatively short spooling time, and hopefully raise the rpm at which it makes max power. Alongside this turbo upgrade I will be also getting race head sorted out + port matching, etc.

In light of this, would you still recommend the T04e? If the T3 flanged GT25 will be enough for the 180-200rwkw in this setup, then that would be ideal.

Do you have access to these now, or is there a wait? And just to be cheeky, would you do a cash price or is this not possible?

Thanks very much for your help.

Cheers,

Leon

I think that I'll stick with a brand new turbo for now, and this one with the T3 housing looks like it might just bolt straight on!

Based on this, what do you guys reckon?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like it'd do the trick...

I'm sure it'd make 200kw on a 2 litre twin cam 16 valve, although not too sure about an SOHC 8v, although maybe it would with the right cam and head mods etc.. My 1g had a similar turbo on it a few years back and made 190 kw at 13 psi.

I also think you'll need to stick to this sort of size it you want to maintain early spool without going twin scroll.

You'll probably find that IF the .48 chokes it up too much the .63 housing could be brought by itself swapped over, if they use the same wheels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hrm. The GT2871Rs that the 200rwkw+ Gemini boys use are a 0.63. Perhaps I should investigate that before I go ahead and purchase the 0.48? At the moment I make max power around 5200rpm, I'm hoping that a better turbo will be able to raise that slightly to make the car a little more driveable.

I don't know a lot about cam specs. Billet cams can no longer be bought for Geminis, so a regrind is the only way.

This is the cam I have, apparantly it's a bit tame:

cam.jpg

I would like to perhaps buy this one

http://www.tighecams.com.au/profiles2/holdengemini.htm (at the bottom)

but I'm worried that my valves might hit or something.

Gah, I don't want to spend $1000 on a turbo only to have to do it again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the GT2871Rs is abit bigger turbo, will have the .63 rear, be ball balling and have a bigger 56 trim front wheel...

its weird that master power don't do anything between the t25 and the to4e, if it was me i'd be looking towards a t04e with the smaller trim wheel and the .48 rear wheel, i'd say 200kw from the t25 will be on the upper limit of the turbo and need to be pushing 18-22psi, and probably restricting the exhaust causing alot of heat

where if you went for a smaller trim to4 you would have the option of winding the boost up for ~230kw later if you wanted

hard to compare cams, when the tigth one doesn't give a measurment @ 0.050" but i'd say its not heaps bigger than yours

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers for your input.

I am trying to stick to an internal wastegate if possible, but if I can't then I guess it's no worries.

Does the lift not play into the cam factor? The Tighe one is has almost 0.2" more.

Gah, why is this so hard?! There must be an easy way. (That is just save for the GT2871RS and stop pussy footing around).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers for your input.

I am trying to stick to an internal wastegate if possible, but if I can't then I guess it's no worries.

Does the lift not play into the cam factor? The Tighe one is has almost 0.2" more.

Gah, why is this so hard?! There must be an easy way. (That is just save for the GT2871RS and stop pussy footing around).

More lift is the better way to go with tarbos, less overlap the better (particularly with the smaller ones)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

those tighe ones are "Gross vavle lift" so might include the 1.5to1 rocker ratio? so there inlet is 10.9mm & exhaust 10mm total valve lift

yours is "cam lift" so works out like 9.52mm valve lift on both, so i guess it is abit smaller than there one

you'd probably want to check your clearances if you change that cam, find some play-doh and see how close it gets

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...