xsspeed Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic ... 54&start=0 These are Grant's ones - towards bottom of page pre-this seasons first crash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Shit. That makes me not want to bother with racing. Ever. Still cool. Though, lots of reading for a 20mm ball joint extension Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Yea he had some bad luck, still cool to watch the development and awesome little car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 OK so chucked in these springs(kings superlow) and suspension (KYB) My first thoughts when comparing the fronts, was the original ones were a lot stiffer, I could barely compress them, whereas the kings ones I could compress a bit until they became quite firm. Comparing the rears, stiffness felt about the same, but the rebound was much more controlled on the new ones. I dialled almost maximum camber at the front as I was worried about them still being slightly outside the guards, and I had noticed previously it looked like it was slightly positive. I left the rear camber alone just to see what they were like, as the camber adjusting cam on the back operates the rearmost control arm. This appeared to add rear toe in as it added camber - not sure what the correct balance is here so might take it along to someone. got it all done and went for a drive, feels a lot flatter through corners, but the rears both rub on the guards a little bit - may need to roll them or see what can be done with the camber. Car is a little twitchy steering wheel pulls right a bit (possibly due to having -ve camber now and driving on a cambered road?) Might need to adjust it a little bit. Anyway some pics, doesn't look super slammed but its definately an improvement aesthetically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 It will be pulling right because of the toe-out that's gained by lowering a car, possibly combined with the camber too. If you want MAX camber (3' would be ideal for the track) then you need to slot the holes in the hub to pull it in further. We've done this on a couple of corolla race cars and it makes a big difference on the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Star Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 As for the guards, looks like it will be just the lips on the inside edge that will be catching... easy enough to roll back with a bit of pipe, can probably do it quite gently... I'm just no sure how the paint will end up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Yeah it is just the lips that need to be folded up some more. Markku, can that toe out be corrected? adjust the tie rod ends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Of course it can be corrected man, that's what a wheel alignment is . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Hah, I thought it was a dumb question, just wanted to make sure I hadn't done something irreversible Struggle to get my head around/haven't tried to understand how camber/castor/toe relate to eachother, like how a change in one creates a change in others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Changing the camber from the hub shouldn't change too much else. It makes a difference because you're moving the suspension points outwards/inwards which changes other figures as the arms move. Pretty simple to understand once you've payed attention for a while. Adding castor changes the camber of the wheel during turn (more camber on the outside wheel at full lock) - but changing anything = time for a wheel alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 mint, understand that. have you played with the rears on ae82 corolla's? Not sure what to do here, cos it *looks* like when you rotate the cam you extend the length of the rear control arm, so this pushes the bottom of the hub out, giving -ve camber, but it also appears to twist the hubs giving them more toe in. Don't think I'll slot anything on this one, like I mentioned before I will play around more on the one getting the 3s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Basically did the same thing with the rears I think - although coilovers sat too close to the wheels for mad camber. Add a big rear bar and it will make a huge difference. You need the rear to tweak if you want turn-in and the front wheels are there to do all the hard work. It shouldn't have as many lift off issues with the lower setup because there won't be as much weight shift / wallowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 ^ this is my thinking too, re weight shift, definately feels flatter around corners. Not sure if the kings springs will offer much in performance, the model numbers are ktfl-45sl and ktrl-52sl for front and rear. Don't know if the numbers mean anything? 4.5kg front and 5.2kg rear? sounds odd, and the website lists them as progressive as well so not sure how they rate stiffness in that case if it's not constant. I'll put the whiteline bar on it and get an alignment, lip the guards and I think I'm done for the nats trackday. I'll do some non performance tootooing aswell, pop in a decent stereo and some speakers, also got this sweet graphic equaliser that illuminates for some 80's nostalgia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 They rate the stiffness on the non-progressive part of the spring normally - the soft coils just bind up and act as a keeper spring to keep the rest captive. For a race setup you'll want around 400lb front and 600lb rear springs with the big bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 7 and 10 kg/mm? sounds stiff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Yep, pretty stiff, but that's what has been proven to work on race cars. Not worth getting that technical with the 4AGE liftback though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Cheers for the advice man...any progress on your car lately? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 There has been work going on - I'll make a post when something substantial happens . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 Well I rolled the guards this morning, upon inspection it looked like the rear tyres were also rubbing on the top edge of the bumper where it wraps around to the wheel arch (it had been rounded off smooth the same profile as the tyre) - this was confirmed through scientific means of sticking some electrical tape to the suspect place and going for a blat - tape rubbed off. MYTHBUSTED/CONFIRMED So either need to bend these out with some heat, or file them back, or live with it. I am less worried now that I know its not metal gouging the tyre. Still to sort for nats trackday: - Alignment - Install rear sway bar - Radiator flush/rod Better get cracking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 There's a few really good posts in this thread about AE86 suspension setups. The front end stuff will be relevant to your interests I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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