RUNAMUCK Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Since you're building another engine for this beast, (Hell you're probably out in the shed right now bolting it together) I think you should give this thread another read. I'm quite sure I've shown it to you before. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=167865 Odds are your heads will be 675 castings. And from how sweet your build threads are, I have zero doubt that you could recreate Justin's work on your heads. It's pretty much free HP. Do you have any other specs on what this motor is getting? They reckon the comp XE262 is as big as you can go without needing a hi-stall. Some folk at FABO prefer the Lunati Voodo cams over the comp ones. Then again a reground core with around 225(ish)@50 would be more than acceptable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 this is the cam, http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-k50052/overview/ I ended up getting those magnum flat top pistons and they look like they will fit without having to do anything to the rods. oddball ring sizes though. Have got bits i pinched off the ute, 500cfm edelbrock carb, performer intake, tri-y headers, MSD ignition. I will probably give the heads a bit of a tickle up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 If you have time to scope out that thread I posted, There is much info on making your heads more betterer.216@50 is not tiny but not too huge either. BUt I suppose you don't want arse raping gas consumption either. I'm really looking forward to rolling to nats next year in this beast! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Progress progress. Are you going to get the same goon to give those chambers a tidy up? I came across someone in wellington who makes custom length pushrods / I'm sure you can buy them from USA in the length you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 will probably get rid of the sharp edges but that will be about it . will be interesting to see how it goes, when i was an apprentice i built a 318 with a complete fuckup of a combination, (650dp, victor jr manifold, stock heads not ported at all, sloppy worn out valve guides, probably low ish compression, big cam, stock converter) and it went pretty good considering.......this should be fairly torquey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Dat camera car though! Also, lold at half page driver profile picture 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Well done getting in the mag. Is it NZV8? I'll have to grab a copy and have a look see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 My I enquire how far below deck the pistones finished up? And how much meat had to be hacked off to do that? Your slugs were 1.755CD yeah? That's around .015 taller than what I have. I'm sure I've read that 'teen blocks are often much taller that "Factory specs" too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 yep NZV8, theres a red monaro on the cover Pistons are now 16 thou below deck height, 1.755 comp height, it had a 30thou cut off the top. as it stands now it works out at 9.35-1 not sure yet if the heads will need a skim. 10 thou off the heads will put it at 9.56-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Sweet! you can buy some pretty thin head gaskets too. I think felpro make some at around .028 compressed thickness. Have to go down to pak n save and give that mag a read. lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 .025 to be exact. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-273-318-340-360-THIN-HEAD-GASKETS-025-PAIR-DODGE-CHRYSLR-Small-BLOK-/161433201995?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25962b2d4b&vxp=mtr They'd be quite spendy once landed though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Have you got a copy of Hey Charger Clint? There are a couple of front end/wheel alignment specs in the back of it. I set my VG up based on them and it's been nice ever since. Also I think that you may be able to get an idler arm with a bronze bush or a bearing or some such from Australia. Maybe a Taxi and Police car upgrade. I looked at getting one last time mine dogged a bush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 So you'd make like a "dummy" tie rod taper out of something like 4340, with a nice thick diameter spacer as part of it, and then a journal for a rose joint to run on at the bottom? say still using a castle nut and split pin too? That wouldn't be hard at all for a competent machinist to turn up. (I'm not one, but I know somoene who is) Kinda like a bump steer spacer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Perhaps the wrong steering box or at least the wrong pitman arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 yeah i wondered that but all appears to be the same as all the other ones i have in stock. I think it is a combination of being not very good to start with, and the fact its a bit lower than a standard one, and the suspension is operating in a range it was not designed to go in- the bump stops are probably half the height they were standard. if you look at the curve on the chart the toe change gets worse the closer to full bump it gets. if you take that away and assume a full bump measurement of say 320mm and a ride height of 370 or thereabouts then its about 15mm, which is still not good but within the range of what a lot of factory vehicles probably were around this era. i could raise it back to factory height of course. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Have you got a copy of Hey Charger Clint? There are a couple of front end/wheel alignment specs in the back of it. I set my VG up based on them and it's been nice ever since. Also I think that you may be able to get an idler arm with a bronze bush or a bearing or some such from Australia. Maybe a Taxi and Police car upgrade. I looked at getting one last time mine dogged a bush. i have that book, i talked to my favorite wheel alignment guy the other day and will set it up probably based on that book i tried getting one of those taxi idler arms but couldnt find anything locally, the old idler is fine apart from the bush so i might make one for it later So you'd make like a "dummy" tie rod taper out of something like 4340, with a nice thick diameter spacer as part of it, and then a journal for a rose joint to run on at the bottom? say still using a castle nut and split pin too? That wouldn't be hard at all for a competent machinist to turn up. (I'm not one, but I know somoene who is) Kinda like a bump steer spacer? yeah thats probably the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Considered mounting a steering rack on a custom crossmember and slinging it in? Could probably even buy one ready made? In fact a google search came up with this. Looks like a piece of cake for someone of your skills Clint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Yeah I have thought about that, they are quite expensive though, I could do it myself as they are just a manual commodore rack. I had a yarn to my boss who has driven a couple fitted with racks and he said they weren't that much better than the box 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 how close to horizontal do the tie rods get in the bump test? If you draw up what spacer you need, I'll get some made up no problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 this pic is it on the bump stops. tie rod is pointing up slightly thanks for the offer i will keep that in mind- i was thinking i might be able to do it with a longer tie rod sleeve, and drill the taper out and use a bolt with a spacer to attach the heim joint to the steering arm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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