thegreatestben Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 I also shouted myself a early birthday present with some slighty wider rims for the rear Cough cough cough... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 ssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh hahaha better suspension is next years job. edit: cheers for that man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 I also shouted myself a early birthday present with some slighty wider rims for the rear Cough cough cough.. Did you go beagle-ing for wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Coming together nicely dude! Needs to be a bit lower to match the stance of some of those japanese ones we keep seeing pics of! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 i agree man but thats an after christmas job. i plan on doing it properly with some BCs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofreq Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 hey ryan -seeing as im doin the same motor swap as u have, with the same nonvvti motor etc - do you have any hints and tips on things to do to the motor before it gets fitted to the car? ur experiences here would be greatly helpful ps: red spokes are mega Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Do the waterpump and cambelt before you put it in, its only $300 and that comes with the waterpump, cambelt and tensioner, front crank seal and cam seals. Thats pretty obvious though. Apart from that, its actully a really easy swap. The only problems i have wouldnt effect you anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofreq Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 cool ill do that for sure- did u do any "BPU" boost mods (talking in US Supra talk now pardon me lol) and, howd u bypass TRC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Juggernaut the sequential stuff and run the blowers in parallel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 cool ill do that for sure- did u do any "BPU" boost mods (talking in US Supra talk now pardon me lol) and, howd u bypass TRC? All i did was unplug the TRC, cut it all off and welded up the holes. You will have to ask mike and evan if they had to do anything with the wiring but i dont think they did Juggernaut the sequential stuff and run the blowers in parallel Ive heard mixed results on this so i opted not 2. Your more then welcome to try it Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofreq Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 cool ill do that for sure- did u do any "BPU" boost mods (talking in US Supra talk now pardon me lol) and, howd u bypass TRC? All i did was unplug the TRC, cut it all off and welded up the holes. You will have to ask mike and evan if they had to do anything with the wiring but i dont think they did ok cool. was wondering about the electrics but i guess if you just leave the switch open, it never kicks in..... since you physically removed it i guess theres no way it can cause any trouble... Juggernaut the sequential stuff and run the blowers in parallel Ive heard mixed results on this so i opted not 2. Your more then welcome to try it Nigel agreed with ryan - all my research points to the fact that running in parallel (aka "TTC" if we continue with the USDM talk) will give you maybe better top end but shithole driveability before 4000rpm - sounds like gay to me - the sequential system (after studying it for ages) is actually one clever piece of engineering. found an awesome site that explains the best(and worst) ways to boost control the sequential setup, i'll paste it in here if youre interested ryan when i get the link at home - basically involves 2 seperate boost controllers one for the first turbo boost level before it prespools the 2nd, and one for the main wastegate when both turbs are running usually you just mod the main wastegate (lets say, to the "industry recommended" 18psi), but what happens when you up the boost this way is the first turbo only spools halfway (like to factory setting of 9psi or something) then tries to prespool the 2nd too early, thus u get this flatspot as the 2nd comes online while exhaust is robbed from turbo 1 and fed to turbo 2, then suddenly you get a rush of power as the 2nd one comes online, as both turbos then play catchup from 9psi to your new increased 18psi boost setting - "feels" like a rush as power surges in (wastegate shut until 18psi) but puts tons of stress on the turbos (mainly the 2nd turbo since turbo 1 is already spinning close to full speed) as they are trying to come up to boost so suddenly - and so leads to premature failure - moreso with these JDM motors that run the weaker CT12's apparently the common result of boost increases is a blown 2nd turbo due to this issue solution is, yes, set main wastegate to 18psi, but to also boost control (bleed, or otherwise) the prespool valve as well, so the prespool of the 2nd happens at a much higher boost (so instead of trying to bring turbo 2 online at 9psi, it holds to like 15psi and only THEN starts prespooling 2. this means more gases to keep 1 spinning and prespool 2, less flatspot (since youre now running 15psi on one turbo, before the second even comes online), and then when both are ready to go they dont need to surge to 18psi since boost is already at around 15. less stress = longer life etc etc. stronger midrange since youre effectively feeding one CT12 with all 6 cylinders until 15psi then bleeding off all the extra exhaust to prespool the other CT12 which will now prespool that much quicker, and then both come online to 18psi = everyones happy anyway im going to be using the dual boost control method. rather than manually adjusted controllers/bleed valves, the best system would be some kinda electronic boost controller that can control 2 wastegates simultaneously. is there such a thing? like the blitz dual SBC?? not sure if this is actually what the dualSBC does.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofreq Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 heres the page on the boost tech http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/su ... _beast.htm some awesome supra tech on this site also - fella is clued up i like it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 loved the sledgehammer ... off the chain man . sounds super sweet and i loved watching it in the rearview attempt to regain traction when leaving corners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 bahahahaha sledgehammer. Cheers man. Might try get some semis and give it another go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 and a bucket seat so I dont end up in th passenger seat next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Choice car! It goes slightly better than my old GX61 for sure..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Needs more chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 maximum engine, minimum chassis. Still makes a epic cruiser! bit of tweaking and it will sit sweet on the track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 maximum engine, minimum chassis. Still makes a epic cruiser! bit of tweaking and it will sit sweet on the track It would be a sweet open road crusier. I wouldnt take it to town though due to the heavy clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 flush the brake fluid, its probly boiled and is toast, should sort the brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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