low n slows mk1 2door

[Unclejake]

I still have the vacuum bleeder. Take it you dweebette.

Also: I just read your symptoms and it sounds to me like there are issues other than air in the line. I can spend some time at yours next week if it helps, but this week is out.

if i pump the pedal fast it seems to firm up and feel good but then leave it for 3 seconds and the pedal just looses its pressure and hits the fire wall.

Do you mean the pedal loses pressure if you keep your foot on it for three seconds, or do you mean that if you take you foot off the pedal for three seconds and then try again the pedal is 'long'?

The latter points to what I have been trying to tell peeps on OS for three years and TBH I am sick of saying again as no one listens (but I will say it again for you once more coz you are so cute, but not here. Everyone else should just carry on and fit big calipers coz the internet said it would be better)

[Brock-Lee]

\Can you tell me too UJ? I promise to listen and will not interrupt you until you are finished. Im assuming you are talking about mismatched caliper to master size. Too small master cyl meaning the pedal stroke is too long

[My name is Russell]

Do you mean the pedal loses pressure if you keep your foot on it for three seconds, or do you mean that if you take you foot off the pedal for three seconds and then try again the pedal is 'long'?quote]

I mean this one, what does that sound like to you UJ?

The AP's are not huge calipers just the same as whats on my 4 door. but cant see any markings on the side of it for cylinder size, i think they work well in the 4 door better than my pajero's by a country mile. They are super heavy but will do for now while i get the car up and running, already have a huge huge list of things to re do. (over half the car probably)

and the FXGT calipers on the back are tiny and were used because the original hilux 4WD drums were absolutly huge / heavy and difficult to get hand brake linkages made for.

Half the purpose of purchasing the bias box was for when i get to this stage it should be easy to switch cylinders to try different sizes?

[Unclejake]

Brock-Lee: Yeah, you are onto it.

Chris: Given you have a pedal box we need to do some checking for throw etc. and caliper/rotor clearance but I can't get there before 18th November so in the interim consider just testing each M/C circuit in isolation, i.e. - slacken off the bolts to the front M/C so it is not activated by the pedal. Then work to get the rear brakes correct before introducing the front brakes into the mix.

It sounds to me like your rear brakes are coming on about an hour before your fronts. That should be pretty obvious if you try the above method.

The above advice is valid if you have a 'long' pedal. If you have a 'soft' pedal then go back to basics with the bleeding.

[My name is Russell]

Brock-Lee: Yeah, you are onto it.

Chris: Given you have a pedal box we need to do some checking for throw etc. and caliper/rotor clearance but I can't get there before 18th November so in the interim consider just testing each M/C circuit in isolation, i.e. - slacken off the bolts to the front M/C so it is not activated by the pedal. Then work to get the rear brakes correct before introducing the front brakes into the mix.

It sounds to me like your rear brakes are coming on about an hour before your fronts. That should be pretty obvious if you try the above method.

The above advice is valid if you have a 'long' pedal. If you have a 'soft' pedal then go back to basics with the bleeding.

oH YUP YUP Makes sence, will give that a shot also.

Cheers UJ

[Raizer]

Palmside recommended princess calipers as a "perfect match" with those cylinders, but they were probably just trying to sell the pedals lol

[My name is Russell]

Palmside recommended princess calipers as a "perfect match" with those cylinders, but they were probably just trying to sell the pedals lol

Yeah could well be i have not bleed the system up properly, will un bolt a master cylinder like UJ says to make sure the bias box is not preventing a cylinder getting full stoke when bleeding.

[Unclejake]

Palmside recommended princess calipers as a "perfect match" with those cylinders, but they were probably just trying to sell the pedals lol

My gut feel is that the rear calipers are too small for the M/C

[Brock-Lee]

that shouldnt affect the length of the pedal though? If the rears are too small they will lock up early and the rest of the pedal will be extending the front pistons and because all the fluid in the second 'stage' of the pedal stroke will be going to the front it would lock up earlier than if the rears were correct size.

^That should be said in a tone that gets higher towards the end of the sentence to inidicate a question

[KKtrips]

an upward inflection?

[Raizer]

that shouldnt affect the length of the pedal though? If the rears are too small they will lock up early and the rest of the pedal will be extending the front pistons and because all the fluid in the second 'stage' of the pedal stroke will be going to the front it would lock up earlier than if the rears were correct size.

^That should be said in a tone that gets higher towards the end of the sentence to inidicate a question

Remember that he has separate cylinders for front and rear, with this stz bias adjuster linking them:

LnS have you tried adjusting the bias? From memory it had a huge range of adjustment so it could be a case of your only putting pressure to the rear until the end of the pedal stroke?

/UJ is no doubt right.

[My name is Russell]

LnS have you tried adjusting the bias? From memory it had a huge range of adjustment so it could be a case of your only putting pressure to the rear until the end of the pedal stroke?

/UJ is no doubt right.

I did try adjusting and bleeding it however probably did not focus on playing with the adjustment enough. I think if i try UJ's methodz100 of un bolting one master cylinder from its mount it should eliminate the bias preventing them bleeding up and if the likes of the oversize rear cylinder preventing the front bleeding.

[kyteler]

Did you not bleed the circuits individually? I imagine the amount of throw in each cylinder would be different so until they're both bled, connecting them would be pointless.

[Unclejake]

that shouldnt affect the length of the pedal though?

It probably would in a pedal box scenario - but I am not absolutely certain. I think the reason the pedal is short after repeated pumps s that the front pads are not getting a chance to move back, away from the rotor. LnS can evidently hold the pedal firm after a few pumps.

Once he releases the pedal and tries again the pedal goes long (but not soft). Normally that would be front calipers too big for the m/c, but in this case I suspect the actual issue is the rear brake m/c.

I could be completely wrong as I have never seen the car, but I had better go take a look soon before he burns it

[Unclejake]

eliminate the bias preventing them bleeding up and if the likes of the oversize rear cylinder preventing the front bleeding.

If the rear M/C is wrong it may not affect the bleeding of the front m/c. I think you have told us that the pedal is hard, but doesn't stop until just before it hits the floor.

If the above is correct then further bleeding is unlikely to help (although it is possible).

Try to find out what the pedal does when you only have rear brakes and then only with front brakes. You can do that by opening bleed nipples and making a mess, or disable one m/c

[Truenotch]

AE82 run a 22.2mm cylinder for all four calipers, so a 5/8th (16mm) would provide quite a lot of fluid when only servicing the rears - I think UJ may be on to something.

Are you using a balance bar for proportioning? I think trying to bench bleed the cylinders and then bleeding the front/rear circuits separately would be a good start - it's possible that the fronts haven't been getting full travel and there may still be air in there.

[Unclejake]

I think you should grab my vacuum bleeder ASAP LnS. It is on TM so hurry before some muppet buys it

[Gaz]

Try to find out what the pedal does when you only have rear brakes and then only with front brakes. You can do that by opening bleed nipples and making a mess, or disable one m/c

What I was getting at with the clamping of lines... just going about it the horey way

Also a note:

I believe the AP calipers share the same volume as the standard M16's. If the master being used is the same as standard then it may be too big as it is no longer servicing rear drums but just AP's up front.

Gaz

[Mk1Daniel]

Woooow... I want it.

[My name is Russell]

Woooow... I want it.

two years of bloody hard work (for a Muppet like me) and you can have one