KKtrips Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 Gutwrenching feeling when that sort of thing happens. But you are right - its only a new "drain" in the block.. Some decent dealer and a appropriate length bolt threaded in would be superb.. You will soon forget about it and it'll be business/perfection as usual.. Still dig the level of awes in this job.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-e Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 Scotch well earned! im sure your knock sensor will be fine how your running it, definitely does not warrant a new block IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esprit Posted September 12, 2010 Author Share Posted September 12, 2010 Thanks guys, yeah after sleeping on it I'm not worried about it at all... just freaked me out when it happened Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 sheesh I thought you had cracked the block the way you were going on. The job looks perfect and I'm sure the bolt will seal up the hole - nothing to worry about! Keep on with the awesome work. Am loving the impeccable attention to detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 Yup my thoughts too... The cooling system shouldn't pose any drama to the bolt/thread, it's pretty low pressure... Look at plumbing fittings, you're running substantially more pressure in a mains pressure system and they've got threaded fittings in abundance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esprit Posted September 12, 2010 Author Share Posted September 12, 2010 Hehe yeah... if I'd thought more about it beforehand, I wouldn't have been so worried about drilling through. In the end, it'll be sweet and the sealant I've used is designed/rated for antifreeze and automotive coolant systems so it should hopefully seal fine and be sweet. Job's a good'un Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 yeah thought maybe you had drilled into the cylinder liner or something! shouldnt be an issue at all. fiat blocks have a drain plug pretty much in that same spot although they are cast steel rather than alloy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esprit Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 Right, another successful night in the garage tonight. I got the inlet manifold gasket yesterday and then had to hack it up with a knife. This is because with the porting done on the head and the manifold, the port holes in the gasket was too small. The gasket that was on there was also ported but I decided to replace it just to be on the safe side as they're really just a one-use thing. Here you can see the old and new ones here: As you can see the porting cuts through the blue elastomeric seal around the top of the ports. This meant that I had to use a Loctite anaerobic gasket sealer to remake the seal around these compromised areas. It's not the best, but given it's just there to stop air leaking into the engine past the throttles they're not under much stress and they should do the job just fine. I did have an embarrassing moment when I'd put the sealant on the gasket, got all the screws in the manifold and was about to seal it all up when I remembered I'd left the four rags I'd stuffed into the ports in the head in there.... that would have been an embarrassing and potentially catastrophic state of affairs if I hadn't had a second thought before I bolted it all down! Whipped the manifold back off and pulled them out before getting it all back together. The other thing that turned up today is the ECU mount bracket. Will test fit this on the weekend and figure out how it's all going to go together. I also made contact with the guy I'm wanting to use to do all my wiring and tuning work. He's sounding pretty keen to do the work and should have the time to do it soon. I'm heading up to meet him on the weekend, we'll discuss some details and what's to be done and I'll be organising to get the car trailered up to him in the next 2-3 weeks. In the meantime I'll have my work cut out for me to get the car to a state where it can leave me and head up there. The car will then come back to me a few weeks later with the engine running and base-tuned. It'll then just be a matter of getting some final things done (like the exhaust heat shielding under the boot floor) before I can bolt the rear clam back on, clean her up, get her all geo'd up and then go do some skids.... on the home stretch now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 All sorts of awesome here.... Pro tip - as a reminder always leave a tail of the rag sticking out the port or pin one of the studs thru it and chuck a nut on the stud.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esprit Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 Good pro tip But when I was measuring up and checking the ported gasket against the ports I stuffed them all the way in to allow the mating face to be flush.... Thankfully I am pretty cautious when I'm assembling stuff... I'll force myself to stop every five minutes, step back and say "right... have I done everything?... Checklist....." I got to that stage and was like "ok, gasket's in place, bolts ready to be pulled up.... ports cle........ FUUUUUUUUUUU" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esprit Posted September 21, 2010 Author Share Posted September 21, 2010 Well it's been a little while since I've updated and things have moved along quite nicely. The big thing that's been going on is that I've been organising the wiring/tuning of the car and I've made some big changes to how the car's going to be run. Sadly these come at quite a cost.... they might not represent good actual value for money, but it'll be the best way of doing things I'm sure. Upshot of this is that I'm selling the Link G4Xtreme and making the move to a MoTeC M800 based system. This has benefits in tuneability over the Link and especially in expandability down the track. It's a higher end solution, which should hopefully pay dividends once I've forgotten the price. The good thing is that I will be moving the lambda control directly onto the ECU. This means no more need for a dash controller/gauge. Because of this, I've also decided I should be able to ditch the Spa oil pressure/temp gauge in the dash too. I can datalog the whole thing then set up alerts and levels on a MoTeC SLM Programmable shift light module. Given I was going to be running a SHIFTi shift light anyway, this is just a way of retaining a much more OEM look to the cabin... clean and simple On the wiring side of things, we've also ordered multi-pin autosport connectors to wire it all together with. We're still going to utilise the OEM wiring completely un-modified, although may look at making up a cleaner engine loom (that is just a direct swap for OEM). It's going to be one hell of a swish setup once completed for sure! So if you need me, I'll be living under a bridge, trying to sell my shoes to buy a crust of food to get me through the day. Oh, and I've got a brand new Link G4 Xtreme Silver-Case going cheap if anyone wants it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 how cheap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-e Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 once I've forgotten the price good luck with that. I take it your going to get the "pro" version that can do the extra data logging also? then you could even set up telemetry also if that sort of thing floats your boat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esprit Posted September 21, 2010 Author Share Posted September 21, 2010 KK-I'd be looking for $2k for the Link... I'll be chicking it Tardme with a 2k reserve in a couple of days if someone doesn't snap it up. Mike-e. Yeah I've unlocked the datalogging on the Motec.... haven't paid for the full-on telemetry on it yet, but that's an option in the future should shit get that serious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Far out, what do you do for a living? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esprit Posted September 21, 2010 Author Share Posted September 21, 2010 Something that doesn't pay nearly enough for me to be spending money like this for sure. Anyone want a kidney? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Something that doesn't pay nearly enough for me to be spending money like this for sure. Anyone want a kidney? how much, pm me also need a liver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esprit Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 Right well a good day's progress last night and today. Got the crankshaft triggering figured out last night and this morning and will feed the ECU a signal from the OEM sensor. Given that we'll be running the engine sequentially we'll be adding a camshaft sensor into the mix as well. This needs to be within a certain crank envelope so Glenn (my resident wiring and tuning guru) and I sorted out this morning exactly where that was to go. We'll add a trigger tooth onto the inlet camshaft here: We'll then mount a hall sensor in a custom adjustable housing over this area which will give the ECU the right signal to allow full sequential operation. Attention then turned to wiring. We ran over the sensors and triggers we're going to use, which was pretty straight forward. We'll be utilising all the car's original engine wiring without cutting anything and just running extra wiring for the extra sensors and outputs. We then got to talking about the engine loom. The OEM loom is a little untidy, and has a good few redundant connectors on it (for things like the original intake resonator valve, charcoal cannister purge etc. that was removed at the factory for the 192 track pack). The Exige loom uses a multi-pin disconnect at the firewall, as can be seen here: A quick bit of research shows that it's still available and a decision was made to completely fabricate a new engine loom, cleaner and lighter than before. This will be be simply plug-compatible with the existing loom forward of the firewall and will have a couple more autosport connectors on the firewall too for the extra sensors. This should result in a very tidy solution that'll be optimal and completely plug-reversible should the car ever be reverted to factory original engine management. The final bonus today was the arrival of all my engine management gear. One fully loaded MoTeC M800, autosport connectors, NTK wideband lambda and associated plug gear.... quite the pricey pile of stuff! Tomorrow will press on with chasing down sensor specs and will begin to design up the sensor mount for the camshaft as well as designing and making up a jig to allow drilling/tapping of the camshaft in-situ cleanly and squarely.... it's starting to come together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esprit Posted September 27, 2010 Author Share Posted September 27, 2010 Yesterday and this morning I got to work designing up an arrangement to mount a cam sync sensor onto the end of the head. This needs to be mounted rigidly enough to avoid vibration and also to prevent the ingress of dirt. Because it's on the top of the engine and in full view it also needs to look nice. The following photos show the initial arrangement I've drafted up in SolidWorks. There's a custom-made screw that'll screw into the camshaft. This will screw into a hole I drill and tap using a specialist guide tool I'm having made up. This will ensure the hole is drilled and tapped true and to the right depth. The mount itself will be milled from Alloy billet, and will be anodised black prior to final installation. It'll spigot into the spigot bore in the head and will be adjustable through 25 degrees (camshaft, 50 degrees at the crank). Adjustment should not be needed as we've a wide range for the SYNC signal for the Motec, but it should hopefully just give us some extra leeway should we need it. Here's the screengrabs, I hope to have the bits done by the weekend so that I can get busy with getting the car ready to leave my possession. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Can you just adapt one to fit of another car? Think the fellow who built my engine converted it from dizzy to CAS using an EVO one from memory. or is a 'cam sync sensor' something different again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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