Truenotch Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Now that nats is over and I didn't make it to the trackday it's time to finish off the conversion . We did some testing on the dyno with a makeshift cardboard air box and it made a huge difference to the fuel curve and moved the powerband up considerably, so I've started cutting more firewall to make way for a decent air box. It should be mostly done tomorrow if we get stuck in and then back on the dyno again soon. Clutch was slipping on the dyno after a day of hot runs. Pulled it out and have sent the flywheel etc away to be machined and set up with a new disc. Should be good! At least we know the engine and box are easy to get out - pretty handy to know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Have just noticed something. Are the mounts on the motor bolted further forward or in a factory position? Trying to figure out how its mounted so rearward with what seems to be realitively standard mounting points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 It's as far back as you can go on the standard crossmember. Most corollas run them to the middle of the crossmember or nearer to the front to clear the firewall. Factory mounts are quite far forward: Mine are quite far back and the crossmember is butchered: Mine might be 150mm further back than the average one I guess? The centre of the strut tops line up between cylinder 1 and 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Want to do more of this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 That road looks vaguely familar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 wanganui twin hillclimbes this weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Hmm... You heading over? Might come for a watch if I don't finish the car. Thinking I might shake it down at the MG classic on Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 hmm prob wont race. not organised / scared. might go for a watch if keen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Para has exactly the thing you are after. I looked into it for a door seal but it wasn't suitable. How did you join the alloy in the end, just rivets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 Yeah just rivets between the front cap and the main plate. The outer plate is separate and will be bolted to the strut tower + joined at the seal at the bottom. The door seal works well for that part of it, but will need something else for the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 http://www.pararubber.co.nz/product.php?id_product=393 Can also buy door seal there, but the above is just a boot seal. With a bonnet that can move around a bit it's probably going to be the best option, but there is another option but I can't find it in a quick search. It is more heat resistant, which is the only thing I'd be concerned about with the door/boot seal, though it shouldn't be getting too hot with the cool flow of air in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Could you just fit a lid to the top of the box and weld/rivet on some of those standard air box clips? Or is there a reason you butt up to the bonnet like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 Butted up to the bonnet for more volume... The #1 trumpet doesn't have a huge amount of space above it otherwise. I bought some soft "noodle" because door seal wasn't working well - it needs to twist around on a few different planes and looked horrible. Noodle is the winner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 sorry, maybe you have mentioned before: the front lip looks errrh, not ae86 road car like, you have a splitter under it right? and? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 Luckily it isn't a road car then... It's an experiment, will see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Seems like the axle let go pretty easy, being a wet track and all? Something cause that or just a poopey axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 It had hairline cracks and was twisted, so was only a matter of time . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 wow, you on 6th gear and hitting the 6500 rev? what's the speed you were doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 No speedo. Calculations say 190-200kph - I run a 4.55 diff ratio and 6th gear is overdriven by .869 (similar to most car's 5th gears). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 It had hairline cracks and was twisted, so was only a matter of time . O I C. P.S. do more on track skids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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