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Escortas 4age kp


mikuni

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Rofl at CaM timing.

Its top dead center on #1 when the cams are in line with their marks. So thats mint for factory specs, but possibly not for tickled cams eh? Will have a think about it when I have it in front of me in the weekend.

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Its top dead center on #1 when the cams are in line with their marks. So thats mint for factory specs, but possibly not for tickled cams eh? Will have a think about it when I have it in front of me in the weekend.

should still be right boes, TDC is TDC CaM's or no CaM's. could mean ign timing is out though, but they cant be that radical if its on stock ecu boe.

spoonful of wtf when it kept up with fuels galant tho. :?

still think your fuel is all up to shit

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  • 3 weeks later...

Lowered yet not low starlet club, choiiiice.

Strange, just took apart my alternator expecting to find fried diodes but they all look mint, perhaps its not my alternator but something shorting out and draining battery. Not keen on pulling apart my freshly taped up loom to find the problem :?

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gutzord boe

could be possibly an easy fix:

if you take the bolt out, how far down does the hole go, and in relation to that, how deep is the crack

my thinking = some form of brass grub screw + thread tape as long as it has enough thread to go past the crack

unless you want to run some form of oil pressure sensor, in which case, that = pretty much needs to be reformed with tig, then re drilled and tapped = expensive task, better off just getting a new block, and high revving cam, and twin 40's, ported, flowed etc

do et

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gutzord boe

could be possibly an easy fix:

if you take the bolt out, how far down does the hole go, and in relation to that, how deep is the crack

my thinking = some form of brass grub screw + thread tape as long as it has enough thread to go past the crack

unless you want to run some form of oil pressure sensor, in which case, that = pretty much needs to be reformed with tig, then re drilled and tapped = expensive task, better off just getting a new block, and high revving cam, and twin 40's, ported, flowed etc

do et

Rofls

would be twin 45s, and carbs are shite. Stick with efi

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And that is where your original oil pressure switch would have gone. bummer about the crack, is it leakin out the crack it self or what? Maybe look into just using some thread tap on the bot and see if that holds the leak off.

Also, can you not take you dissy out and move it back a tooth to get timing right? or was that the problem in the first place?

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Im not 100%, I know oil pressure sender was around that area on some 4ages, could be the bolt on the right of my cracked one though, either way I dont have one. Yep its leaking from the crack, and only just started, so I imagine it can only get worse. Be keen to find a pressure sender or whatever goes in there, screw it in then weld up the crack for permanent goodness.

And yes your probably right about taking dizzy out a tooth, man I'm stupid :lol: Although I dont know what was wrong before, maybe I cant, I'l try it next.

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